Converting to SWG - How Much Salt to Add?

[ugadawgs311]

The SWG is up and running now (turned it on today), but I’ve noticed two odd things:

1. The SWG has an instant read function, and it says that the salt level is 3300ppm, which makes sense with how much salt I added. However, I received my Taylor Salt Water test kit today, and ran two tests with the specified reagents, and I got 4200ppm. Which one of these tests is wrong?
2. The “No Flow” light is blinking, which would indicate that there’s no water flowing through the pump, but there absolutely is. I think the light may have come on when the Variable Doeed Pump switched over to a lower setting (2200 rpm). Is this common with variable speed pumps? Or is there a setting I could tweak?

Thanks for any help!

 

[BDY]

A) trust the Taylor test. It’s chemical. The SWG uses electric current to measure and can be off +\-. As long as the cell is happy and within the manufacturer range on the Taylor test you should be happy.

Re flow - I had to play with RPM to find my flow switch minimum speed and then add a few RPM to it in order to never go below minimum. If it seems still too high to you to be reasonable there are experts here who will be along shortly

PS - re the Taylor test, you are counting until the first color change? Not any farther than when it turns from yellow to milky red instantly

 

[ugadawgs311]

PS - re the Taylor test, you are counting until the first color change? Not any farther than when it turns from yellow to milky red instantly

The liquid turned to the milky color after just a few drops and stayed that way until I reached 22 drops. I see slight red colors, but the whole liquid doesn’t change to red until about 22-23 drops. Should I stop whenever I first see a red color? Even just a tiny spot?

 

[PoolStored]

The “No Flow” light is blinking, which would indicate that there’s no water flowing through the pump, but there absolutely is. I think the light may have come on when the Variable Doeed Pump switched over to a lower setting (2200 rpm). Is this common with variable speed pumps? Or is there a setting I could tweak?

NO FLOW just means the flow is too low for the SWCG.

First thing to do is to backwash your filter. Dirty filter will reduce flow, resulting in the problem that you have.

After backwashing, reduce RPMs until the SWCG no flow light comes on. Note the RPMs. Multiply by 1.2. i.e. light goes off at 1290, on at 1300 use 1300x1.2=1560. I'd then not run my pump below 1600 if you want the cell to produce. This will protect you from a dirty filter.

Then, always note clean filter pressure and backwash when filter pressure rises 25%.

Do these two things and your cell should always run...

 

[PoolStored]

Should I stop whenever I first see a red color? Even just a tiny spot?

No. Wholesale change to a salmon/brick color. Do you have a smart stir? smart stir really helps with this test in particular. If not, swirl a bunch between drops.

 

[BDY]

The liquid turned to the milky color after just a few drops and stayed that way until I reached 22 drops. I see slight red colors, but the whole liquid doesn’t change to red until about 22-23 drops. Should I stop whenever I first see a red color? Even just a tiny spot?

When the whole thing turns red. When you get close to the end you’ll start seeing splashes of red that will mix back to yellow and then all of a sudden a complete shift to reddish

Also - you’re using 10ml in a tube right? Not 25ml? And letting water warm up if it’s really cold?

 

[ugadawgs311]

When the whole thing turns red. When you get close to the end you’ll start seeing splashes of red that will mix back to yellow and then all of a sudden a complete shift to reddish

Also - you’re using 10ml in a tube right? Not 25ml? And letting water warm up if it’s really cold?

This is exactly what I’m seeing - the splashes of red, then all of the sudden a full change to the salmon color. And yes, I’m using the 10ml sample size.

I just don’t get how it could be as high as 4200ppm. I recently refilled about 60-70% of the pool with hose water, which shouldn’t have much salt at all. Could the Taylor reagents be bad? Or spoiled with the sun or high temps during shipping?

 

[ugadawgs311]

NO FLOW just means the flow is too low for the SWCG.

First thing to do is to backwash your filter. Dirty filter will reduce flow, resulting in the problem that you have.

After backwashing, reduce RPMs until the SWCG no flow light comes on. Note the RPMs. Multiply by 1.2. i.e. light goes off at 1290, on at 1300 use 1300x1.2=1560. I'd then not run my pump below 1600 if you want the cell to produce. This will protect you from a dirty filter.

Then, always note clean filter pressure and backwash when filter pressure rises 25%.

Do these two things and your cell should always run...

Thanks. I’ll try backwashing to see if that helps. The water pressure has remained constant at 15-18psi.

 

[Newdude]

I just don’t get how it could be as high as 4200ppm

Which test did you do beforehand? You said you 'had it tested' which implies pool store.

And/or, the volume is smaller than you though.

 

[ugadawgs311]

Which test did you do beforehand? You said you 'had it tested' which implies pool store.

And/or, the volume is smaller than you though.

The test the pool guy did was this little metal probe thing. I hadn’t seen one before, but he basically just stuck it in the water for a few seconds, and bam, had a reading. Seemed really
convenient and useful, but he said it’s expensive.

The volume I’ve always used was the volume calculated by the pool inspectors when I purchased the home. I suppose it could be a little off, but the 22,500 gallon mark hasn’t steered me wrong yet.

 

[Newdude]

Seemed really
convenient and useful, but he said it’s expensive

Maybe it hadn't been calibrated in a while, or it wasn't calibrated properly. Meh. Either way, it was likely off.

You did good testing it before, but from here on out, only trust the k1766.