Converting to Salt

Sep 17, 2017
1
Dallas, TX
Pool Size
17000
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Pentair ScreenLogic… how easy/hard is it to convert a chlorine pool to SW?
Best Chlorinator bang for the buck and do I have to use a Pentair Chlorinator? Any tips and tricks and Pros and Cons. TIA
 

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Welcome to TFP!

I'm not super familiar with the Pentair automation stuff but I think the ScreenLogic is the software. What automation system do you actually have? Pentair Automation Systems - Further Reading

In general the Circupool SWCGs are popular if you don't want automation, otherwise it's a good idea to go with the brand that the rest of your stuff is. If you have a pentair automation system that works with their SWCG you can look at getting the pentair SWCG but there are some downsides. The warranty isn't as good as the Circupool if you install the pentair yourself (even if you get it installed I think it's less than the Circupool).

Might want to fill out your signature so we can help better.
 
Not a lot of info about your pool and automation system but here goes for my $.02.
  • You can go with your automation manufacturer's salt system or a 3rd party.
  • I don't see much advantage to restricting yourself to the automation brand that really matters in practice. The big difference is only that you can set % power remotely. Once your system is lined out that rarely needs to change more than yearly.
  • I chose my add on system based on $/lb chlorine production, warranty, and reputation here. Prices vary a lot as do warranties so you need to check current offerings. Don't look at pool volume to compare. There is no standard for this so some manufacturers are indicating they can treat a larger pool with less chlorine production... pure marketing hype.
  • Get a unit that produces enough chlorine to do twice your pool size. All units decline over the years. If you size it too small you will have to run longer initially and supplement with liquid chlorine sooner or replace the cell sooner. Incremental capacity is cheaper than a replacement of the same size.
  • Use Pool Math to determine how long to run your unit at 50% power as a good starting point. Assume 3ppm FC is needed to start for summer. This is a good starting estimate but can vary a lot.
  • *** Edit- forgot to add this*** Consider adding a VS filter pump if you don't already have one. This gives you huge flexibility to run swg longer for very low power cost. So you can run at high speed just enough to clean the pool and rest of the time just to add any needed time to chlorinate. Most chlorinators work fine ay much lower rpm. Mine was about 1500 rpm.
  • There is an online supplier that does some of the work for you on this page. If you DIY warranties are dramatically reduced by major suppliers. Most 3rd parties do not reduce this.
  • Once you pick a system installation is moderately difficult DIY. Requires 240 v electrical competence and skills to mount the controller, plus hook up PVC piping and control wires. DIY is about 50% of cost for professional install in most areas.
  • Start up is easy peasy. Check your salt level and don't be surprised if you have 1000 ppm before you add salt. If you skip this step you'll likely overdose with salt.
  • Almost any brand of water softener salt works fine so long as it doesn't have any additives. Add to the shallow end since it's easier to mix. Usually all dissolves in a couple hours max. More expensive granulated salt dissolves way quicker.
There are a LOT of people here that have used salt pool systems for many years. Ask any questions you have and you'll get great responses quick.

I hope this is helpful.

Chris
 
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Stay away from Clorox pool salt. There has been multiple reports of people getting bad iron stains in their water after adding it. You can use any water softener salt if you like, just stick to the blue packaging that doesn't have any additives.
 
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