Converting to chlorine from PermaSalt

Just did another fas DPS test after adding chlorine and got it to 4 FC and .4 CC

So probably bump up the FC some more around right before dark?

Seems with the better chlorine test it’s making more sense now.
 
It's good to see your FC increasing. :goodjob: Are you getting more comfortable with the testing? It looks like it. Yes, you can increase the FC a bit more. If your CYA is 50 right now, an FC of 6-8 would be ideal. Always remember - the FC & CYA get balanced together as shown on the FC/CYA Levels, or better yet the chart below. First know your CYA, then find what FC you "should" be at. NEVER let the FC fall below the minimum (algae).

full
 
At this time, you should be most concerned with testing FC and pH. All the others can take a backseat for now. Watch the FC to prevent algae, and the pH that is doesn't get too high (scale). The TA doesn't move a lot unless you add water from the hose, or mistakenly added baking soda. If you have a vinyl pool, CH only matters when it's really high. With a CYA of 50, you may only check it once a month unless you just want to proactive it, or you exchange a lot of water from say a major T-storm.
 
So again, keep the FC in that 6-8 range with liquid chlorine, and control the pH from going over 7.8 with muriatic acid. That's your main pool testing responsibility for the week. Between that time, some brushing and clean the skimmer. Watch the filter pressure to see if it needs cleaning. That's it!

You can keep the chlorine in the laundry room, but remember the muriatic acid needs to be outside somewhere isolated and safe, away from kids, pets, and anything metal. TX heat and cold will not damage muriatic acid. An old Rubbermaid bin or trash can will work.
 
Cool!!
Thanks.
Yeah the new chlorine test worked great.
I knew something had to be up with the water looking like it did with all the chlorine I was dumping. 😆
She’s all clean and converted to chlorine from Permasalt.

A killer liquid chlorine dispenser would be pretty nice.
 
I would suggest you do a true
Overnight Chlorine Loss Test at target fc levels before calling it good.
You weren’t really doing the
SLAM Process so it may just look better but still be lurking.
& yes, if your steps are filled with sand they probably have algae.
I would remove them & clean them inside & out then use separate sealed weights for them.
This prevents algae city & is much easier to remove in the future.
Sand filled Bleach jugs will work & are easy to come by. Just be sure to seal the tops with a couple pieces of duct tape before putting the lids on since they are vented.
 
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I’m still learning the chlorine part. I came home today and the fas dpd read nothing. I pulled out the OTO and zero.

This morning at 5:45
when I left I did a fas DPS and was at 2.6 FC and .4 CC.

Now almost 12 hours later nothing.
Maybe I didn’t have my FC high enough. And the pump shuts off at 9:00pm and comes on at 8:00am.
 
Poolmath says add 125oz 10% bleach to get to 7.0 FC
I’m doing that now. I guess pool on high.

And the handful of little 1” chlorine tabs apparently didn’t do squat.

Let’s see what happens.
No visible algae.
Water is pristine blue clear.
No visible debris anywhere.
No chlorine smell whatsoever.

I added 80oz 10% chlorine last night.

Maybe it’s just so hot that it’s burning off during the day.

Current
Ph 7.3
Ta 120
Ch 250
Cya 50

Temp 90

Will add chlorine now and let circulate.
 

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What do yall do in Texas now?
Do you let pump shutoff at night?
Run on low?
Run on high?

Combo?

Is it not advised to do a morning FAS DPD before work while pump is off?

Would appreciate any suggestions on pump and speed and time

Thanks all!!
 
What do yall do in Texas now?
Do you let pump shutoff at night?
Run on low?
Run on high?

Combo?

Is it not advised to do a morning FAS DPD before work while pump is off?

Would appreciate any suggestions on pump and speed and time

Thanks all!!
Make sure the pump is has been on for at least 30 minutes before testing it. That makes sure its mixed well.
 
I would suggest you do a true
Overnight Chlorine Loss Test at target fc levels before calling it good.
You weren’t really doing the
SLAM Process so it may just look better but still be lurking.
& yes, if your steps are filled with sand they probably have algae.
I would remove them & clean them inside & out then use separate sealed weights for them.
This prevents algae city & is much easier to remove in the future.
Sand filled Bleach jugs will work & are easy to come by. Just be sure to seal the tops with a couple pieces of duct tape before putting the lids on since they are vented.
This!!!
 
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Loaded up to 7.6 FC and .2 CC last night right at dark. Let it run 40 mins on high before FAS DPD.
This morning at 530 I was down to 2.4 and .2 CC.

So the steps are coming out. That’s too bad really nice curved steps. 400.00 dollars worth. Really wide too. Confer is the brand I think. Anyway they are hollow for the most part with drain holes all about the frame and steps. I had originally thought that the chlorinated water would get in there and do its thing. But the only other item is a set of original steps that aren’t hollow anywhere. Guess I’ll keep those and toss the others as it will be near to impossible to “clean” the inside of the hollow steps and uprights.
Then a SLAM would be in order. I’ll weight down the other non-hollow steps under water then SLAM IT.
I have to work Friday but off on the fourth. So I’ll slam this afternoon and all day Thursday. And if I have to keep going I’ll have to dose extra hard Friday morning till I get back home at 4pm.

Thanks everyone for the advice!!

Enjoy the 4th and stay safe.
 
Here’s a pic of the steps. Weep holes all throughout with a bag of sand on each side piece with caps to keep sand in. To drain you tip on back to drain water without sand coming out. I pretty sure to get the sand out you’d have to invert and remove a cap to blast out with hose.
 

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