Converted Hot Spring Grandee to Freshwater Salt System

government public rules & traditional pool care says 1-3ppm is ok & 10ppm is shock level without taking into account cya or no which we know is not fully accurate.
You may know that, but I'm obligated to do what they say on a public pool (1-3ppm) or spa (3-5ppm). Private is another matter. But if I was on the job I'd say your fc is WAY too high (and maybe ph too low), and is likely the cause of your rusting stainless. That may not be correct, but it would be my guess walking up on it with rusty stainless and 12ppm. I'd then ask how frequently you have to replace your heater and pump seals, and check your jet inserts and gaskets for damage. But I'd also say I'm no chemistry expert and can only tell you what works for me in my spa. Which, incidentally, is NOT EPA approved, and rarely sees 10ppm without people in the water, and never with.
 
Have been running the saltwater system at 8. I'm adding a bit of dichlor after heavy use, but maybe a teaspoon at a time. I'm not even sure that's needed. I was in there for about an hour the other night. 2 kids were in for 30 minutes and wife was in for 30 minutes. When we got in, chlorine was a 5. Got out and it was around 3. Tested early next morning and it was 4.5. When I add dichlor, it maybe is a 5 when I get in the next day. This thing is producing and holding chlorine better than ever before. Water is perfectly clear and feels noticeably better. Very happy with this conversion. May be more expensive with replacement salt cells, but it's well worth it in my opinion. I was also hesitant to add the $35 silver ion tab in the filter return, but they swore it would help stabilize chlorine usage. It appears that it works. I don't know the science behind it, but it's holding and replenishing just the way it should.
 
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