Constantly Cloudy...Help

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R

RDR2

Member
Jul 26, 2020
11
Maryland
Currently have a 1 year old 20,000 gallon fiberglass pool. Pool was completed August of 2019 and closed Oct 2019. Since reopening (by the original installer) we have had nothing but problems.
Pool immediately developed apparent calcium scale on the surface of the pool and now has been cloudy for 6-8 weeks.
We have tried multiple attempts to clear the water by numerous ideas from numerous pool companies. Through all of this the pool chemistry has remained balanced.
Our last attempt was to Floc the pool, which initially worked great. Once vacuumed the water was crystal clear but within 4 days the water was cloudy and worse than before.
We have a frogger mineral filtering system. What is being introduced to the pool that the filter is unable to filter?
Any help is greatly appreciated!
 
Rdr2
Welcome to the best pool forum. Here we work on exactly where your problem is but we're missing parts of the puzzle. Firstly how are you testing the water. We here have lots of faith In the TF-100 kit which you shouldorder immediatelyand help us help you. Test strips are at best guess work without true answers. You mentioned frog system and those are not really relied upon here on the forum as they add metals to the water which cause other issues you don't want to have to deal with later on. Read pool school and get yourself educated. Get the kit and come back with test results as oer the instructions which are straight forward.
 
Try searching the forum on Frog systems. Several threads discussing them.
Plus one one TF100 test kit w/speedstir. Pool store tests and guess strips are not accurate enough for good advice Taylor k2006c is also acceptable, but reagent mix doesn’t fit quite as well. Link in my signature.
Please add your pool information to your signature, similar to mine. Helps the experts and saves you typing it on every thread.
Suggest you read ABCs of pool water chemistry, link in signature.
Good Luck and welcome to TFP! 😀
 
Welcome R!

Good advice above. And to summarize, you want to get your own quality test kit, the TF-100, along with a Speed Stir and XL option. Click "details" on the test kit and choose XL and Speed Stir. XL is good for you since you have algae (cloudy pool) and will be testing more frequently than normal while you fix the issue.

You need to follow the SLAM Process to clear your pool. Read it through fully several times. However, you will need your TF-100 test kit to begin. After you obtain it, post up a full set of results for further assistance.

Your basic issue though is that your Frog system is adding silver (the mineral they mention) and CYA (as part of the chlorine). Silver will cause staining in your pool and only drain will get it out (stains will remain and be dealt with separately) and the CYA (stabilizer) in the chlorine pac causes your chlorine to become ineffective because you are accumulating too much CYA, which acts as sunscreen for chlorine. You need to remove the frog and decide how you will chlorinate effectively. Your two best options are installing a saltwater chlorine generator (SWG - and your best choice for ease of maintenance) or using plain bleach (chlorine) in bottles. You can read the many threads about why mineral systems are bad. See Myth 4

But as mentioned, you'll want to read through ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry and get yourself into the mindset of testing yourself and adding only what your pool needs.
 
bmoreswim said:
Welcome R!

Good advice above. And to summarize, you want to get your own quality test kit, the TF-100, along with a Speed Stir and XL option. Click "details" on the test kit and choose XL and Speed Stir. XL is good for you since you have algae (cloudy pool) and will be testing more frequently than normal while you fix the issue.

You need to follow the SLAM Process to clear your pool. Read it through fully several times. However, you will need your TF-100 test kit to begin. After you obtain it, post up a full set of results for further assistance.

Your basic issue though is that your Frog system is adding silver (the mineral they mention) and CYA (as part of the chlorine). Silver will cause staining in your pool and only drain will get it out (stains will remain and be dealt with separately) and the CYA (stabilizer) in the chlorine pac causes your chlorine to become ineffective because you are accumulating too much CYA, which acts as sunscreen for chlorine. You need to remove the frog and decide how you will chlorinate effectively. Your two best options are installing a saltwater chlorine generator (SWG - and your best choice for ease of maintenance) or using plain bleach (chlorine) in bottles. You can read the many threads about why mineral systems are bad. See Myth 4

But as mentioned, you'll want to read through ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry and get yourself into the mindset of testing yourself and adding only what your pool needs.
Click to expand...

So you think Algae is my issue that is causing the cloudy water?
I floc’d the pool last Sunday, vacuumed Monday. Water was crystal clear until we wake up Saturday morning to a cloudy pool.
Pool guys have been no help...basically throwing their hands in the air.
I’ll order the test kit. In the meantime, any suggestions greatly appreciated.....pool is less than a year old and wife is losing her mind!
 
Yes it sounds just like an advancing algae population and yours is a common story each summer.
Owning and learning to use a quality test kit is the foundation of balancing your pool water. You can slow the algae with liquid chlorine but you need more data to decide how to proceed toward a balanced system that is clean and clear. Tell your wife everything is going to be fine very soon and have her look at pictures of TFP pools for reassurance. What does your pool paradise look like?
 
Pool guys are a waste of money in my book as all I ever read here is how fast they're in and out, and the chemistry is their last concern. It takes me mere minutes per week to care for my pool after I learned how here, and only about $150 per year in chemicals and test kit refills.

Fberglass pools particularly are at risk for metal stains. Don't add any cheap algaecides or copper containing pucks or the FROG system which you've now learned is a big metal problem.

Your algae came back because FLOC does not kill algae. Only Chlorine in sufficient amount and duration will slay that beast. First though you need a *quality* test kit - Either the K-2006C or the TF-100. Both use Taylor reagents but the TF-100 is sold by a mom & pop company who learned the TFP methods and put together a kit appropriate to it. It can be found at:
www.tftestkits.net or go online for the K-2006C which is a close match in reagent volume size.
We need to know:
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA

Then we can help you do a SLAM process on the water to alleviate cloudy water filled with algae.

Holler back with questions :)

Maddie :flower:
 
Ordering the test kit you have suggested.
In the meantime here are my figures from today.
FC - 12.8
TC - 12.8
CC - 0
pH - 7.4
Hardness - 155
Alkalinity - 124
CyA - 159
Copper - 0
Iron - 0

I purchased Liquid Chlorine, so I’m ready on that end. Now what?
Oh yeah, fired my pool maintenance guy today.
Thank you!
 
RDR2 said:
Ordering the test kit you have suggested.
In the meantime here are my figures from today.
FC - 12.8
TC - 12.8
CC - 0
pH - 7.4
Hardness - 155
Alkalinity - 124
CyA - 159
Copper - 0
Iron - 0

I purchased Liquid Chlorine, so I’m ready on that end. Now what?
Oh yeah, fired my pool maintenance guy today.
Thank you!
Click to expand...
Sweet! Looking forward to your first test kit results!!
 

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RDR2 said:
Looks like CyA is too high....Should I try a partial drain to dilute the water?
Click to expand...
Once you get your test kit, do the diluted CYA test. From there a drain/refill plan can be formed.
Read Draining - Further Reading

Do determine if your municipality has a requirement on pool draining, where you would send the water, etc.
You are looking at potentially 15000+ gallons of water.
 
Ok, CYA is high but so is your FC so it balances out.
See this chart for referencre --> FC/CYA Levels

TA seems high but perhaps your water source is also high?? Do you have to lower your pH frequently? High TA can "pull" the pH up...but that's easy to deal with after your good test kit arrives and we can determine actual numbers we trust.

Keep us posted, 'k?

Maddie
 
Per the instructions above for Slamming, I started exchanging water last night in order to try to lower my CyA, while I wait on the test kit to arrive.
Exchanged about 2500 gallons last night and added some Liquid Chlorine when I was done.
Wake up this morning to brush and vacuum and the pool has already cleared considerably. Excited to begin the actual Slam process once my test kit arrives Friday.
Now I’m just trying to keep my family out of the pool today because it actually “looks” good for the first time in weeks!
Thanks!
 
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First attempt with the test kit.....

FC - 12.5
CC - 1.5
TC - 14
CH - 300
PH - 7.2
TA - 250
CyA-120

I’ve been exchanging water the last two nights and adding 64 ounces of 10% Liquid Chlorine per night. Water is currently clear.
What’s next?
Thanks!
 
Is the CYA test from the dilution method?

If so, you need to drain/exchange 50-70% of your pool water to fresh.
 
It is a shame that the pool store or pool boys could not diagnose what was wrong nor understand how severely out of balance your CYA was. Were you using pucks to chlorinate your pro before coming to TFP? At least now you have the tools and knowledge to test your own pool and ensure your CYA stays were you want it to once the SLAM is complete. I also second getting the SPEED STIR - it really makes testing easier. Good luck!
 

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