Consensus on pH meter? Pen type or wifi app type

tradewinds

Well-known member
Jul 22, 2023
248
Central Florida
Pool Size
17000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Checking on if there is now a standard TFP users are using outside of the titration measuring?

Pen type or permanent WiFi probe with app type at reasonable cost.
 
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Checking on if there is now a standard TFP users are using outside of the titration measuring?

Pen type or permanent WiFi probe with app type at reasonable cost.
The standard is the Taylor drop test. I don't see that ever changing. It is too simple and easy and requires nothing more than the comparator block and fresh reagents.

For those who do use an electronic meter, I see that many seem to like the Apera PH60. The electronic meters must be stored correctly (usually in distilled water) and must be calibrated every so often.

There are several folks who have installed pH probes along with some level of automation (raspberry Pi based) but I would argue that the cost is not 'reasonable'. It is certainly not ridiculous for such things, but it is a heap sight more than a fresh bottle of reagent every year at $4.50/bottle. Plus, with this you also have recalibration of the unit every so often. As well I would venture to guess that most of those using this method also employ the drop test as a sanity check of their pH probes.

Have not heard of any probes with onboard wifi for reporting.

--Jeff
 
I have and use the Apera PH60. Since I run FC on the hot side, sometimes it gets over 10 ppm. In those cases I use the PH60 due to the pH drop tests are not valid over 10 ppm.

Keep in mind the PH60 probe tip should be replaced approximately every 24 months. I only figured this out after I wasn’t getting consistent results even after calibrating and ordered a new probe tip. The new probe tip had instructions that it should be replaced after 2 years. I like the Apera PH60 having it alongside my K-2006C
 
The standard is the Taylor drop test. I don't see that ever changing. It is too simple and easy and requires nothing more than the comparator block and fresh reagents.

I like the Apera PH60 having it alongside my K-2006C
I often wonder if the comparator block colors are fading due to natural UV present in the lighting.
 
I often wonder if the comparator block colors are fading due to natural UV present in the lighting.
If you leave it sitting in the sun, sure. If you are storing it in your test kit in a cabinet in your home as advised, then by the time it fades enough to make a difference, you won't need it anymore. I'm not gonna argue that it won't fade over a significant amount of time, but the amount it fades over normal use and storage is going to be negligible.

I think the higher likelihood is that you might drop it and crack it and need to replace it, long before the colors fade.

--Jeff
 
I have and use the Apera PH60. Since I run FC on the hot side, sometimes it gets over 10 ppm. In those cases I use the PH60 due to the pH drop tests are not valid over 10 ppm.

Keep in mind the PH60 probe tip should be replaced approximately every 24 months. I only figured this out after I wasn’t getting consistent results even after calibrating and ordered a new probe tip. The new probe tip had instructions that it should be replaced after 2 years. I like the Apera PH60 having it alongside my K-2006C
Why the pH 60 instead of the pH 20 for only $50? Lol

also I wondered what kind of batteries the pH 60 takes?
 
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Why the pH 60 instead of the pH 20 for only $50?
At the time I bought the PH60 it was $50 or so, maybe $54.99

I also liked the accuracy of PH60 +- 0.01 rather than the PH20 +- 0.1 although that is way overkill for swimming pools.

I liked the ability to calibrate the PH60 with standard solutions, 7.00, 4.00 & 10.01

Bottom line final decision was “just because”. Although, just because can’t be quantified.

edit: Oh, and it takes AAA batteries. Not exactly sure, I looked it up on Apera’s website. I am not at home right now.