It looks like you are significantly overloading the motor.
https://mwpools.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=6082
https://mwpools.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=6082
Confusion on L1/L2 on Century motor
- Thread starter Katelyn
- Start date
What is the exact model number?
SMF-107 1-Speed 115/208-230 V ¾
SMF-110 1-Speed 115/208-230 V 1.0
SMF-115 1-Speed 115/208-230 V 1.5
SMF-120 1-Speed 115/208-230 V 2.0
SMF-210 2-Speed 230 V 1.0
SMF-215 2-Speed 230 V 1.5
SMF-220 2-Speed 230 V 2.0
waterwayplastics.com
SMF-107 1-Speed 115/208-230 V ¾
SMF-110 1-Speed 115/208-230 V 1.0
SMF-115 1-Speed 115/208-230 V 1.5
SMF-120 1-Speed 115/208-230 V 2.0
SMF-210 2-Speed 230 V 1.0
SMF-215 2-Speed 230 V 1.5
SMF-220 2-Speed 230 V 2.0
SMF International Pump Replacement Parts - Waterway Plastics
Pool & Spa Products
waterwayplastics.com
It's def single speed, but I never found the model number anywhere (other than that label I posted)What is the exact model number?
View attachment 477687
SMF-107 1-Speed 115/208-230 V ¾
SMF-110 1-Speed 115/208-230 V 1.0
SMF-115 1-Speed 115/208-230 V 1.5
SMF-120 1-Speed 115/208-230 V 2.0
SMF-210 2-Speed 230 V 1.0
SMF-215 2-Speed 230 V 1.5
SMF-220 2-Speed 230 V 2.0
SMF International Pump Replacement Parts - Waterway Plastics
Pool & Spa Products
View attachment 477688
Will go look again
Hmm, I never found that page in my searches. Interesting.
Need to understand what you're saying about overloading, since everything was working fine for years with the pump end?
We don't have a valid impeller part number, which makes it difficult to be sure about the total required horsepower.
You should check the amperage during operation to see if it exceeds the motor label amperage.
You should check the amperage during operation to see if it exceeds the motor label amperage.
The documentation from the manufacturer is poor.
As you can see, the total HP required depends on the model number.
If the impeller is too big, then you will overload the motor and cause it to burn up.
The best way to tell now is to measure the current to see if the amperage is too high.
The maximum amperage at 115 volts is 14.8 amps, which is 1,702 watts.
As you can see, the total HP required depends on the model number.
If the impeller is too big, then you will overload the motor and cause it to burn up.
The best way to tell now is to measure the current to see if the amperage is too high.
The maximum amperage at 115 volts is 14.8 amps, which is 1,702 watts.
The motor died early, which might have been due to flooding or maybe it was also overloaded.
What was the total HP of the original motor?
How many times has the motor been replaced?
Found the old motor photos and it was also THP 1.25
So to recap, bought the house in 2018, with an oem waterway/century 1.25 motor, which began to overheat last March 2022, so motor was repl with the exact Century HSQ-125 motor, which then got flooded in Sept 2022 but still ran with bad bearings until last week, when I bought another exact Century HSQ-125 to repl bad motor (def caused by hurricane flooding)
Never had/needed any other pump work during last 5yrs. Never any leaks or other probs (besides suction side leak which is a whole other problem). Have a Hayward Star Clear Plus filter with PA-90 cartridges.
So I'm still not sure which repl impeller to buy, I get stuck on the THP being my motor is an odd 1.25 - since everything pump-wise was working fine for last 5+yrs using same thp 1.25 motor.
So to recap, bought the house in 2018, with an oem waterway/century 1.25 motor, which began to overheat last March 2022, so motor was repl with the exact Century HSQ-125 motor, which then got flooded in Sept 2022 but still ran with bad bearings until last week, when I bought another exact Century HSQ-125 to repl bad motor (def caused by hurricane flooding)
Never had/needed any other pump work during last 5yrs. Never any leaks or other probs (besides suction side leak which is a whole other problem). Have a Hayward Star Clear Plus filter with PA-90 cartridges.
So I'm still not sure which repl impeller to buy, I get stuck on the THP being my motor is an odd 1.25 - since everything pump-wise was working fine for last 5+yrs using same thp 1.25 motor.
Attachments
It says SMF-110, so it looks like the motor is correct.
I would still measure the amperage.
I would still measure the amperage.
And now I see the SMF-110 on the orig motor label, so that answers that. Thanks!What is the exact model number?
View attachment 477687
SMF-107 1-Speed 115/208-230 V ¾
SMF-110 1-Speed 115/208-230 V 1.0
SMF-115 1-Speed 115/208-230 V 1.5
SMF-120 1-Speed 115/208-230 V 2.0
SMF-210 2-Speed 230 V 1.0
SMF-215 2-Speed 230 V 1.5
SMF-220 2-Speed 230 V 2.0
SMF International Pump Replacement Parts - Waterway Plastics
Pool & Spa Products
View attachment 477688
Okay, lost all my testers in the flood (don't leave tool boxes on garage floors 
), so I'll see if neighbor has one I can borrow today
), so I'll see if neighbor has one I can borrow todayThat pump didn't come with an impeller screw. The impeller would have a hole for it in the center. Yours is molded shut. No problem. Just something to check as some pumps do and some don't, regardless of horsepower. It does, unfortunately, look like your impeller is damaged and there is melted plastic, or the old rubber cup from the previous seal, at the portion that is in the impeller. It must be removed so the new seal fits properly. If the impeller is melted it will continue to leaks. You should NOT see that much "black" on a seal that is as new as yours.Thanks poolman for giving me direction on the leak.
I should've asked here first about that dang screw, as I was confused about that too.
Mine doesn't clearly have it? See pic - that 'surface' in the middle is hard - not like a silicone I can pick away at. After a ton of googling, I read where the screw is often not included or 'redundant' on newer motors? But the schematic for the Century HSQ-125 still shows a screw? I emailed the company but didn't hear back.
I also caught that old thread in here of someone who said their washer "melted" into the screw, so now I'm wondering...
Can any of you tell by my photos if there should be a screw under whatever that hard surface is?
I knew the right way was to replace the impeller, but I spent the money on a new diffuser instead hoping an obvious rim crack on old diff was causing some air problems (new diff didn't fix that, darn it).
So I will go ahead and order a new seal (the better vitron one) and some rtv sealant for delivery tmrw.
Any thoughts on my impeller and that screw area is appreciated. (I think the macro shows something melted - but it's hard when I tap it with aie not rubber or silicone)
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