Confused.. CYA numbers

[fourteen017]

Why would my chlorine drop so much?

According to the screenshot you posted, your CYA is 5. If that is accurate, it is incredibly low. Recommended levels for CYA are 30-60.

It acts as a buffer for your chlorine, protecting it from being eradicated by the sun. With almost no CYA in your pool, any chlorine you put in will be gone in 1-2 hours.

 

[Texas Splash]

"Pools eat chlorine like a pet eats food" I don't understand this statement.

I was simply saying that pools require chlorine everyday. That chlorine is fed (provided) by various methods, usually either by manually additions or the use of an automated product like an SWG.

Keep in mind that TFP recommends a CYA of about 70 for salt pools to help preserver/protect the chlorine generated by the SWG. Without that elevated CYA level, your FC will fall extremely fast. An SWG cannot generate FC fast enough with such a low CYA level. A concern now is that this has been happening long enough that your water is starting to look dull. That could be a precursor to algae. Adding some liquid chlorine ASAP and keeping it elevated "may" help to prevent a full algae outbreak. We won't know for sure until you receive your TF-100 test kit.

That TF-100 is a fantastic kit. It will clear-up all of our questions, give us pinpoint accurate results, and let us know how to go forward.

 

[Texas Splash]

Obviously I'm a newbie, but I almost feel like my filter isn't working properly.

That is a common comment. When water gets cloudy, new owners assume the filter isn't doing its job when actually it's a chemistry issue. No amount of filtration will kill excessive organics in the water which is why water gets dull, cloudy, then eventually turns green. For now, just do your best to maintain an FC level somewhere in the 4-5 ppm range. Since your CYA is low, you may have to add a little chlorine twice a day. Don't expect your SWG to do it for you at this point.

When you receive your TF-100, we will review a full set of water test results so that we can walk you through a CYA test and an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test to see if there's a problem with algae trying to start. Everything hinges on that TF-100. Don't worry, we'll walk you through the process and help you understand it all.

 

[Flboy44]

The phosphate question. Isn’t his reading of 5,000 an indication of high organic levels?
I know in my pool, a slight haziness is soon followed by an algae bloom.

 

[Texas Splash]

The phosphate question. Isn’t his reading of 5,000 an indication of high organic levels?

Too early to tell. In 99% cases, the phosphate level isn't a concern if the water is chlorinated properly (FC-to-CYA). In this case we know the FC & CYA have not been adjusted properly, so we need to start with those items first.

 

[wyckoffpool]

I have 3 more gallons of chlorine and I will continue to add until I get my test kit, but it could be until Monday. Should I add any stabilizer in the meantime too? Can I add it after I just added chlorine? Cost is not a concern at this point -- I feel like I am running against the clock and to be honest I do not have time to babysit the sock method now. I'm leaning towards liquid stabilizer to get it in quickly. Any thoughts?

 

[Texas Splash]

Can I add it after I just added chlorine?

Since we expect your CYA to be low, you can add 30 ppm worth via the sock method. Put granules in a white tube sock and let it soak in the skimmer for about 30 min, then start squeezing it out non-stop until all the mush comes out. Should only take a few minutes. If you choose to use conditioner that just gets poured in. You can use which ever method and product you prefer.

CYA has no bearing on adding chlorine, so go ahead and add chlorine as needed.

 

[RickRude]

Don’t panic. You’ve been place in a holding pattern until your test kit arrives and you post those results. Adding 4-5 ppm per day of liquid chlorine is a safe “prevent algae and otherwise do no harm” approach while we wait for your own test readings.

Mechanically, when was the last time you cleaned your filter (your signature doesn’t list your filter type). Is the filter pressure normal? Is your pump priming and running correctly?

 

[TeanyV]

Hi wyckoffpool!

Take it from a Wyckoff, NJ, native, you’re in good hands here! (I live in Ohio now but I grew up as a Coolidge Cougar.)

One thing: Keep your pump running 24/7 until your water is clear and balanced.

Once you get your chemistry sorted out, you’ll be back to having a pretty low-maintenance pool. This site hasn’t steered me wrong in 7 years and it’s saved me tons of $ and aggravation. The SLAM method might take slightly longer than expensive shortcuts-in-a-bottle, but it will set you up for long-term success instead of an avalanche of issues.

~TeanyV

 

[wyckoffpool]

Don’t panic. You’ve been place in a holding pattern until your test kit arrives and you post those results. Adding 4-5 ppm per day of liquid chlorine is a safe “prevent algae and otherwise do no harm” approach while we wait for your own test readings.

Mechanically, when was the last time you cleaned your filter (your signature doesn’t list your filter type). Is the filter pressure normal? Is your pump priming and running correctly?

Thanks for the comment - definitely panicking, and I am also starting to see green in the deep end today. The filter was cleaned upon opening which was late May. Filter pressure is about 20. I don't know how to answer the question about the pump priming and running correctly; what should I look for?

I added some comments in my signature which should help.

 

[wyckoffpool]

Just going to add that the other odd thing is that debris does not seem to be flowing into the skimmer as well as before, which is why I brought up the filter issue. Previously I could visually see water flowing into the skimmer, and now there can be a bug or leaf just lingering right out front and not getting sucked in.

 

[wyckoffpool]

Hi wyckoffpool!

Take it from a Wyckoff, NJ, native, you’re in good hands here! (I live in Ohio now but I grew up as a Coolidge Cougar.)

One thing: Keep your pump running 24/7 until your water is clear and balanced.

Once you get your chemistry sorted out, you’ll be back to having a pretty low-maintenance pool. This site hasn’t steered me wrong in 7 years and it’s saved me tons of $ and aggravation. The SLAM method might take slightly longer than expensive shortcuts-in-a-bottle, but it will set you up for long-term success instead of an avalanche of issues.

~TeanyV

Hey @TeanyV, thanks for the words of encouragement. I used to babysit for a Coolidge family way back when, haha.

 

[RickRude]

Just going to add that the other odd thing is that debris does not seem to be flowing into the skimmer as well as before, which is why I brought up the filter issue. Previously I could visually see water flowing into the skimmer, and now there can be a bug or leaf just lingering right out front and not getting sucked in.

This suggests to me that something is obstructing flow, or the pump isn't pulling hard enough.

Flow obstruction:
- is the skimmer clean?
- is the pump basket clean?
- is the filter clean? The current filter pressure alone isn't too useful. What's needed is the pressure when the filter has just cleaned. We use current readings to see how much the pressure has increased from the clean state, as a gauge of how dirty the filter has gotten.

Pump not pulling hard enough, both of which would reduce filter pressure
- Did you unintentionally reduce rpm?
- Clogged impeller

 

[wyckoffpool]

Received my test kit. Status is the pool looks great, I think we (you guys) saved it by teaching me to add the shock and stabilizer.
This week I've been working on getting the CYA up, so last time I added stabilizer was Wednesday, tested today and CYA is about 30. Have a ways to go (it was basically at 0). Trending in the right direction. I'm testing every other day.

Other numbers from today:
Free Chlorine: 5
CC: remained clear
TA: 130 (took 13 drops to clear)
PH: seems 7.8, maybe slightly higher

Didn't test calcium

 

[Texas Splash]

Those are pretty good numbers. If you have ANY concerns about haziness, dull, or cloudy water, do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test before adding anymore stabilizer (CYA). Otherwise, be sure to use muriatic acid to control the pH. Anywhere in the 7.2-7.8 is usually good, but since your TA is a bit elevated, you can knock the pH down from 8.0 to 7.2 each time and that will also helpl lower the TA a little.

FC and pH will be your highest priorities for testing, so if you have any questions about those let us know.

Also refer to the FC/CYA Levels to avoid algae.

 

[wyckoffpool]

Those are pretty good numbers. If you have ANY concerns about haziness, dull, or cloudy water, do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test before adding anymore stabilizer (CYA). Otherwise, be sure to use muriatic acid to control the pH. Anywhere in the 7.2-7.8 is usually good, but since your TA is a bit elevated, you can knock the pH down from 8.0 to 7.2 each time and that will also helpl lower the TA a little.

FC and pH will be your highest priorities for testing, so if you have any questions about those let us know.

Also refer to the FC/CYA Levels to avoid algae.

Thanks @Texas Splash, working on reducing my TA, its at 130 now. I'm using Acid Magic, poured in 1/3 of the jug on Saturday and aerated just with the jets and splashed around. Today TA still at 130.. do I keep repeating the process? Measure pH 30 mins after adding the acid, and if the pH is not low enough keep adding acid?

 

[Texas Splash]

For best success, let the pH rise to about 8.0. Then use enough Muriatic Acid per the PoolMath APP (Effects of Adding) to lower the pH to about 7.0-7.2. Then let the pH rise again on its own. You can aerate if you really want to in an effort to accelerate the pH rise back to 8.0 so that you can do the acid dosage again. But each time you do that large pH adjustment from 8.0 to about 7.2, the TA should slowly begin to fall.

 

[wyckoffpool]

Alrighty, today I added acid and then test pH a few hours later.. it was 7.2.

What's next... Should I test again tomorrow? If not then how soon? Also am I testing both pH and TA each time?

 

[mknauss]

Test pH every few days. TA once a week. Maintain FC based on CYA.

 

[wyckoffpool]

Test pH every few days. TA once a week. Maintain FC based on CYA.

Just confirming...that I'm still testing once a week while I'm in the process of lowering TA?

My TA is 130 so I'm trying to bring it down, just asking how often I repeat the process.