Went to Leslie's today to get water test since I was in the area. You will see the results in the pic on left. He stated my cya was 200 ppm and I had metals in the water. He suggested first draining below the skimmer or said I could spend $100 in chemicals and try to lower both cya and metals. He also suggested changing the sand as it has not been changed in 8 plus years. I had a bad experience with them in the past (metals, ended up cya locked after following their wrong instructions to a tee). I went home, collected a new sample and decided to travel to the privately owned pool place based on the information Leslie's provided. Local place said they did not find metals (little iron) but did suggest changing sand. (results on right). So ALL that conflicting information lead me here to you resourceful people so I can hopefully get the information needed to get the pool straight. Looks like I also need to invest in a better testing kit too based on reading the information here. In case, my signature doesn't work: vinyl, sand, around 32,000 gallons, city water, pool has been opened all winter, use tablets in the past but haven't used any since December.
Conflicting Testing Results
- Thread starter matchless
- Start date
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,508
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Welcome to TFP M.
Typical Leslie story. Between friends can we just ignore Leslies results and what they said? Make believe it didn't happen. The good news is it helped you find your way here.
Both tests agree that your CYA is high. So that is probably correct whether 200 is the right number or not.
The only immediate thing you need to do is raise your FC level above 20 to prevent an algae problem developing. Typically FC needs to be about 10% of CYA. Although our FC/CYA Chart does not go to 200 you can double the CYA 100 targets.
Use liquid chlorine/bleach. Now you don't have a test kit right now to measure FC that high so use PoolMath to calculate how much you need depending on the % you can find locally. Then add a jug a day until you have a test kit.
Next is to get your own test kit. Either the TF-100 Test Kits or Taylor K-2006C is needed to follow TFP methods. See Test Kits Compared. The TF-100 is the best value.
You are going to need to exchange around 80% of your water to get your CYA down between 30-40 assuming your CYA is 200. You will verify that once you get your test kit. You don't want to drain your pool since your liner will likely not survive a drain.
@mknauss has a method for you to do a water exchange.
So get your test kit on order and go shopping for a bunch of liquid chlorine.
I suggest you review ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry and TFP Pool School.
Typical Leslie story. Between friends can we just ignore Leslies results and what they said? Make believe it didn't happen. The good news is it helped you find your way here.
Both tests agree that your CYA is high. So that is probably correct whether 200 is the right number or not.
The only immediate thing you need to do is raise your FC level above 20 to prevent an algae problem developing. Typically FC needs to be about 10% of CYA. Although our FC/CYA Chart does not go to 200 you can double the CYA 100 targets.
Use liquid chlorine/bleach. Now you don't have a test kit right now to measure FC that high so use PoolMath to calculate how much you need depending on the % you can find locally. Then add a jug a day until you have a test kit.
Next is to get your own test kit. Either the TF-100 Test Kits or Taylor K-2006C is needed to follow TFP methods. See Test Kits Compared. The TF-100 is the best value.
You are going to need to exchange around 80% of your water to get your CYA down between 30-40 assuming your CYA is 200. You will verify that once you get your test kit. You don't want to drain your pool since your liner will likely not survive a drain.
@mknauss has a method for you to do a water exchange.
So get your test kit on order and go shopping for a bunch of liquid chlorine.
I suggest you review ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry and TFP Pool School.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,402
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Welcome to the forum!
You can exchange some water without draining.
If you place a low volume sub pump in the deep end and pull water from there while adding water in the shallow end (through a skimmer or into a bucket on a step so you lessen the water disturbance) you can do a fairly efficient exchange. That is assuming the water you are filling with is the same temperature or warmer than your pool water. If your fill water is much cooler than your pool water, then switch it. Add the water to the deep end (hose on bottom) and pull water from the top step.
The location of the pump and fill hose may change if you have salt water, high calcium, etc.
In my pool, with saltwater and high calcium when I drain, I put the pump in the deep end and hose in shallow end. The water in the pool weighs more per unit volume than the fill water from the hose.
Be sure to balance the water out and water in so the pool level stays the same. Also be sure your pool pump is disabled during this process. Once started do not stop until you have exchanged the amount of water you wish.
You can exchange some water without draining.
If you place a low volume sub pump in the deep end and pull water from there while adding water in the shallow end (through a skimmer or into a bucket on a step so you lessen the water disturbance) you can do a fairly efficient exchange. That is assuming the water you are filling with is the same temperature or warmer than your pool water. If your fill water is much cooler than your pool water, then switch it. Add the water to the deep end (hose on bottom) and pull water from the top step.
The location of the pump and fill hose may change if you have salt water, high calcium, etc.
In my pool, with saltwater and high calcium when I drain, I put the pump in the deep end and hose in shallow end. The water in the pool weighs more per unit volume than the fill water from the hose.
Be sure to balance the water out and water in so the pool level stays the same. Also be sure your pool pump is disabled during this process. Once started do not stop until you have exchanged the amount of water you wish.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,802
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
@matchless, don't tell anyone this secret .... but I go to Leslie's from time to time. More for humor than anything. I bring their printout back (already knowing my readings) and show my family what not to do, and why we test at home. You'll see. Welcome! 
- Apr 10, 2018
- 5,158
- Pool Size
- 18375
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45
Matchless,
The TF-100 is the best value for kits. I would recommend the Speedstir also. It makes testing easier and you'll see more consistent results.