- Apr 6, 2018
- 21
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Hi All,
I'm in the "free" startup month of pool service that was included with my new pool and I am trying to A.) learn as much as I can, both here and from the pool guy while I have him, B.) make sure he doesn't do anything I will regret later, and C.) not step on his toes too badly. I like the guy and he hasn't said anything too crazy, but his advice seems to differ from what I find here and the differences bring up some questions for me. My fill water had a TA of 140 and a pH of >8 (per his test kit; my TF-100 has not yet arrived). He added some acid and calcium and said he'd be back in three days. In the mean time, I tested several times (mainly to play) with the junk kit that the builder gave me and watched the pH trend up past 8 (which seemed to make sense given new plaster and TA of 140), so I added some acid, knocked the pH down to about 7.4, turned on the fountains, and then repeated all that again after the pH came up. My thought process was that if I lowered the TA, I might not have to add as much acid and the pH might not creep up so much between his weekly (from now on) visits. Then today, while I wasn't here, he added bicarb and now (again, with the crappy PB test kit) the TA reads 170 with a pH of 7.6 and it's another 4 days until he plans on being here again. Am I off track to think that a lower TA might at least space out the intervals at which the pH drifts up out of range? Does the absolute TA actually matter much, as long as the CSI stays at 0 +/- 0.3(0.6?)? Does the absolute pH matter much within reason, again, as long as the CSI is okay?
I did leave him a note asking what ranges he was shooting for, and he may have just given me broad ranges as a guideline, but the note he left me back said the following:
FC: 1-10
pH: 7-8
TA: >80
CH: >180
CYA: <100
I understand the CYA to FC ratio espoused here. Though I plan on using liquid chlorine (still undecided on a SWCG), I think I'm okay with the trichlor he's using for now, given the free acid I'll get out of it, as long as the CYA levels stay low. I will tell him that I don't want the CYA driven up too high and will monitor it myself as soon as my test kit gets here. Should I (would you) squabble over a TA number, or just add acid between his visits to keep the CSI neutral (which it is, at a pH of 7.6)?
Thanks in advance, and feel free to tell me if I'm over-thinking this. I'm a critical care nurse and it's hard to leave my type-A side at work sometimes.
I'm in the "free" startup month of pool service that was included with my new pool and I am trying to A.) learn as much as I can, both here and from the pool guy while I have him, B.) make sure he doesn't do anything I will regret later, and C.) not step on his toes too badly. I like the guy and he hasn't said anything too crazy, but his advice seems to differ from what I find here and the differences bring up some questions for me. My fill water had a TA of 140 and a pH of >8 (per his test kit; my TF-100 has not yet arrived). He added some acid and calcium and said he'd be back in three days. In the mean time, I tested several times (mainly to play) with the junk kit that the builder gave me and watched the pH trend up past 8 (which seemed to make sense given new plaster and TA of 140), so I added some acid, knocked the pH down to about 7.4, turned on the fountains, and then repeated all that again after the pH came up. My thought process was that if I lowered the TA, I might not have to add as much acid and the pH might not creep up so much between his weekly (from now on) visits. Then today, while I wasn't here, he added bicarb and now (again, with the crappy PB test kit) the TA reads 170 with a pH of 7.6 and it's another 4 days until he plans on being here again. Am I off track to think that a lower TA might at least space out the intervals at which the pH drifts up out of range? Does the absolute TA actually matter much, as long as the CSI stays at 0 +/- 0.3(0.6?)? Does the absolute pH matter much within reason, again, as long as the CSI is okay?
I did leave him a note asking what ranges he was shooting for, and he may have just given me broad ranges as a guideline, but the note he left me back said the following:
FC: 1-10
pH: 7-8
TA: >80
CH: >180
CYA: <100
I understand the CYA to FC ratio espoused here. Though I plan on using liquid chlorine (still undecided on a SWCG), I think I'm okay with the trichlor he's using for now, given the free acid I'll get out of it, as long as the CYA levels stay low. I will tell him that I don't want the CYA driven up too high and will monitor it myself as soon as my test kit gets here. Should I (would you) squabble over a TA number, or just add acid between his visits to keep the CSI neutral (which it is, at a pH of 7.6)?
Thanks in advance, and feel free to tell me if I'm over-thinking this. I'm a critical care nurse and it's hard to leave my type-A side at work sometimes.