Concrete Block Puppy Pool - in progress - many questions

[Beens]

I know absolutely nothing about this stuff at all. (helpful right?) but I've been reading this and thinking as far as the bonding for pools but not for ponds, it's probably just some governmental regulation the same type of thing that made it possible for you to put in a pond but not a pool.

My guess is that the risk is technically the same but because it's considered a pond and "people won't be in it" that they don't care and don't enforce the same strict guidelines as they do for a "people pool".

So, while I know nothing of your topics, my cynical views towards the government might help. lol Not saying that they shouldn't "care" about people getting shocked in pools but they aren't very consistent when it comes to technicalities and loopholes!

 

[techguy]

I don't think you need to bond a koi pound as you know the fish cannot get out of the pool so any energy potential difference is minimal and the risk to human is minimal s most are not swimming on koi pounds. Also the koi have a really we legislative political action committee dedicated to their safety. LOL

IMHO, Do the best you can for the bonding. Do you know if the deck is bonded? Adding a plate to your skimmer should be the easiest way to bond your water.

 

[bob2112]

I HAD to take a break from this Bonding stuff as I'm to the point where it's giving me headaches.

So, I've spent the morning doing further research / decision making on the pool interior finish.

I've decided (and ordered) the Sani-Tred products.
http://www.sanitred.com/SwimmingPool.htm

That's the "rubberized" PermaFlex coating, then the two part stuff you use to patch and seal any joints or rough areas and then recover with the PermaFlex. You then apply an epoxy pool paint over all that. Now, I have to find the best pool paint! *sigh*

Cost $530 plus around $80 shipping, so just over $600 total.

[s:lwjvu3fk]I was going to go with UPS Ground for around $80, but couldn't stand the thought of being on hold for a week or more, so I went with the 3 Day shipping - ouch![/s:lwjvu3fk] They just called me and said that from the Midwest I should probably get it in 3 days via UPS Ground, so why spend the extra for 3 Day. That was nice of them, and brought the shipping down from $180 to $80! For some reason, I thought it was shipping from Cali.

I'll post results and pics when this all happens.

techguy - the deck is not Bonded, it's just something I built out of that fake wood stuff over a pressure treated frame. I could remove a few planks to string a Bonding wire under the deck, but I'm not sure what I'm able to Bond to at this point being all the rebar is buried in the concrete.
Meaning, I have no idea if ... heck, I have no idea period!

I'll think about it later. Gonna go mow the yard to relax.

 

[danpik]

Bonding can be a very confusing subject. Mostly because the true reason for it is often misunderstood and it is often mistaken with grounding. The two, while they can share some similar attributes, are in place for very different reasons.

First, grounding. Imagine an electrical appliance such as a pool pump (metal housing, etc). with a hot and neutral wire running to it, it will operate just fine (power in, power out). Now, say there is an internal short in the motor. The metal shell of the motor becomes energized. Without a ground wire that caseing will just sit there energized waiting for a ground source to walk up and provide a path to ground. Now, if you happen to be that ground conductor you will get a shock. The problem being is that the human body is not a great conductor like a copper wire would be. Also, the dirt (ground) is not a great conductor either. In fact both are a fairly good resistive load. This means that you will not provide a good enough path to clear the fault (trip the breaker). If we add in a third wire, a bare copper wire back to the source. this will provide the no-resistive path and cause the breaker to trip instantly should the fault occur.

Bonding. Everything in the universe has a certain electrical potential. Each of these things though has a different potential level. This difference in levels is what can cause shocks. One potential trying to equalize to another potential. Here is a way to understand this a little better. Everyone has experienced a static shock. You know the one, you shuffle you feet across a carpet and touch a metal door knob. Your body, shuffling across the carpet, built up an electrical charge. This charge is known as potential. You then touch the metal doorknob, sitting there at a lower potential. when you touch it, the two different potentials want to equalize and thus a spark jumps the gap as you approach giving you the shock you feel. Now, imagine you do the shuffle again but, this time you have a wire attached to your finger and connected to the door knob. As you shuffle across the carpet and build the charge the doorknob is in the same potential as your body. When you reach the door and grab the doorknob the voltage potential is the same so you will not feel a shock.

In the same way, this applies to a pool. The shell of the pool, the deck, the metal pump, heater, fence, etc all can be at a different potential to the water. In fact different areas of each can be a different levels. These are refered to as gradients. The bonding grid acts like the wire between you and the doorknob. It brings all of these different gradients and potentials to the same level so when you are standing on the concrete deck and reach into the water you don't get the shock that could happen if you did not bond things. There are also stray currents floating around in the ground from poorly installed electrical systems. These raise the potential of the ground significantly in areas around the pool. Again, if this occures the grid will keep everything in the same potential so the risk of shock is eliminated. Another way to look at this is this. A bird sitting on a wire does not get shocked as it is at the same potential as the wire. The electricity flows harmlesly around, thru, and over it. Because there is no resistive change the voltage potential remains zero. Likewise a human can sit on that same wire and enjoy the view without danger as well. The problem we have is we can not land on the wire without first touching it from say the ground or a tower. This puts us as a resistive conductor between two different voltage potentials. I don't need to explain what happens next.

The reason Koi ponds do not need to follow the NEC bonding code is because the fish are like a bird on a wire. They exsist in basicaly one potential all the time. There are voltage gradients in that pond but the differences generaly are not great enough to bother them when they pass thru them. Your dogs however will feel the difference if it exists around you pool. Their paws are very sensitive and you will know very quickly if there is a problem. Please keep in mind that even if you do not have a problem around the pool today, it does not mean in the future you will not have one.

 

[Bama Rambler]

Excellent post Dan. I think this post should be a sticky somewhere.

 

[bob2112]

I agree, good post explaining bonding, thank you Dan.

Thing is, I already understand the reasoning behind bonding, I'm just missing some of the technical aspects. Such as, does the bonding wire running around the perimeter of the pool HAVE TO go all the way around? Say there is a wood deck on one entire side of the pool, can the bonding wire go 2/3rds to 3/4ths around - kinda like a U shape?

I have been asking questions regarding what to do in my situation to remedy the omitted bonding procedures I should have been incorporating during the build. Wish someone had mentioned the importance of bonding after my first post with all those pictures, I still could have fixed the problem at that point.
C'est la vie ...

What if there is no bonding lug on the pool pump? I believe double insulated pumps don't have one. Mine doesn't have one.

I've asked about my plan to put a stone facing or tile on the outside of the pool. If it would it help if I put a wire mesh/grid between the block and the stone for some kind of metal perimeter to bond to? Would that help negate the lack of a bond to the concrete encased rebar?

Would it help if I put a mesh wire down under the coping that I could run the #8 copper wire through and connect to the inground bond wire? That would create a bond around the entire top of the pool, but would it make up (help with) the lack of (omission of) the bond connecting the rebar?

I've asked if I should chisel out the concrete in the corners of the top course of block to get to the horizontal run of rebar there. Any benefit in all that work?
Or, would the paragraph above this one do the same thing?

I've already ordered the bond plate that goes inside the skimmer. I seen other pieces that are for creating a water bond which go inside the end of a fitting which screws into PVC T fitting. I can't find them again as I've been over so much material in the past couple days, but would they help if I put one on each side of the pool in the return lines, or is that just overkill? Is overkill with the water bond a bad thing for some reason?

Wrote this awhile back - (copy & paste) Kinda ties in with the first question in this post.
"One thing, There is no way to put a continuous loop (of #8 Bonding wire ) around the pool. The entire side towards the house is deck and there are now also the two new (UNbonded of course!) concrete pads I put in for the pool. So I'm wondering if something like that skimmer bonding plate can be wired into the ground differently. If I can't do the continuous loop around the pool, will the Bonding even work? I'm thinking about the buried wire just being along the backside - like 20 feet in length, because I want to rototill the yard when finished with the pool to resod, and I can just see the rototiller snagging the Bonding wire."

As to the Koi pond, I never mentioned the fish, I got that part. I was curious as to the lack of bonding requirements because people come in contact with their ponds daily. Many feed their fish by hand and probably enter the water to deal with different things. Why is no one ever shocked there? These aren't holes someone dug in the ground, put a tarp in and added fish, many of these Koi ponds are way fancier than most swimming pools. I read for hours yesterday and not one build ever mentioned bonding. I'm not denying the need to properly bond a pool, simply asking why a pool and not a Koi pond where there is basically no difference.

I'm frustrated, tired and sore. I spent over $5,000 on my dog's lymphoma condition between last October and this March and it was in remission. Her lymph nodes are swelling again and my wife took her to the vet this past Saturday. We heard yesterday that the lymphoma is back and she needs to start the chemo again if we choose to keep her alive. Dog's not even 5 years old. - Please no posts about the dog, they don't help with the pool build.
The $2,000 above ground dog pool we wanted has turned into a $5,000 project just to get around the code/easement restrictions, and the dog won't make it 'til the end of the year if I don't spend another 5k on treatment.

Bottom line is, I am (have been) asking for help, ideas, and/or suggestions to patch MY lack of bonding error. As I've said, the simpler the better. If the lack of bonding isn't that big of an issue, I would like to know to know that too. I have better ways to spend my time and money.
I've received more well wishes and dog stories (which I appreciate) than anything else. I had hoped that all the time I've spent creating an interesting thread with lots of pictures would lead to a bit more feedback from those in the know.

The stuff from Sani-tred should be here Friday, and I want water in the darn pool by next midweek.
I've got work to do and I just wasted an hour (okay, two hours) typing this.

 

[Bama Rambler]

Sorry I wasn't paying more attention.

Whever you can gain the easiest access to the rebar would be where I would attach the bonding wire to. You might be better off chipping out by the skimmer and tying to it there. Then run it around the pool under the earth and to the equipment.

 

[GreatCanadian]

Wow. Sounds to me like everyone has tried to help you as much as they can. Just because you are not getting the exact answers you want, you don't have to act so unappreciative. You can't tell anyone here HOW to answer your questions. Plus, they've answered some questions PRECISELY, then you say afterwards that it's not answered. Example:

From you: " WHY aren't Koi ponds bonded"

from dampik:
"The reason Koi ponds do not need to follow the NEC bonding code is because the fish are like a bird on a wire. They exsist in basicaly one potential all the time."

From you:
"As to the Koi pond, I never mentioned the fish, I got that part"

You asked about bonding in a KOI POND. How can that be answered without mentioning fish??
Plus, people have mentioned your dog out of concern. I don't think you should tell people what they can or can't mention in their posts. You sound like you want someone to tell you that bonding isn't an issue and leave it at that. Noone is going to tell you that. I suggest you lighten up and be more thankful for all the answers provided and not be so snarly just because they are not the answers you want. People are trying to figure out your situation and solve it. Appreciate it please.

 

[techguy]

For me.. the issue is you could run a loop of copper wire around the pond but you have a deck on one side and you don't want to till the other side's wire with your tiller... what am to suggest? I would guess if you did your best under the deck by removing a few boards as you have suggested and then bury is best you can. As for the tiller side... bury it and DON'T tiller that section. Plan something that does not get tilled every season. Do you plan on tilling within the area required for the bond loop? Once you have dug up for the loop...it's tilled.

Good luck. I am not a bonding expert. Don't forget... most who come here have installed ONE pool, and someone else did the installation work. The one they have now and have limited experience base. You may be the ONLY person with a koi pond designed for dogs.

 

[danpik]

I agree, good post explaining bonding, thank you Dan.

you're welcome

Thing is, I already understand the reasoning behind bonding, I'm just missing some of the technical aspects. Such as, does the bonding wire running around the perimeter of the pool HAVE TO go all the way around? Say there is a wood deck on one entire side of the pool, can the bonding wire go 2/3rds to 3/4ths around - kinda like a U shape?

Your pool presents something of a unique situation. You have build an in ground pool that is also something of an above ground as well. above ground pools require a perimeter bonding loop attached to 4 points of the metal shell/frame. The wire is supposed to be buried 6" down about 18" to 24" out from the side. A concrete or vinyl/steel inground usually has a concrete perimeter deck that the reinforcing wire acts as the loop and is tied to the main structure of the pool. In your case you should have the inground loop around any area that someone could be standing and touch the water. If this pool is subject to a final inspection then you may want to run the requirement question by the inspector as to weather he wants to see the area under the deck bonded. If not, I can't see a problem with not bonding it. It does not have to be a complete loop for it to work. As this does not meet the letter of the NEC the decision on this will be entirely up to you

I have been asking questions regarding what to do in my situation to remedy the omitted bonding procedures I should have been incorporating during the build. Wish someone had mentioned the importance of bonding after my first post with all those pictures, I still could have fixed the problem at that point.
C'est la vie ...

Had I seen this post when you started it I would have mentioned something. Don't be too upset that someone did not say anything though. Most people who frequent the construction area of this forum don't even realize their new pool came with a bonding grid. Remember, this is a lot like building a new house. More thought goes into what color to paint than what goes in the walls. It is just human nature to not worry about things we can't see

What if there is no bonding lug on the pool pump? I believe double insulated pumps don't have one. Mine doesn't have one.

If there is no lug then it should be listed as double insulated and does not require bonding. The bonding lug on my pump is under the hood at the end of the motor where the electrical system connects

I've asked about my plan to put a stone facing or tile on the outside of the pool. If it would it help if I put a wire mesh/grid between the block and the stone for some kind of metal perimeter to bond to? Would that help negate the lack of a bond to the concrete encased rebar?

It may be an option as the concrete/stone mass will be a fairly homogeneous mass. Having wire mesh between the two could cause problems with the stonework down the road if it starts to rust any

Would it help if I put a mesh wire down under the coping that I could run the #8 copper wire through and connect to the inground bond wire? That would create a bond around the entire top of the pool, but would it make up (help with) the lack of (omission of) the bond connecting the rebar?

Again this could help

I've asked if I should chisel out the concrete in the corners of the top course of block to get to the horizontal run of rebar there. Any benefit in all that work?
Or, would the paragraph above this one do the same thing?

Ideally, this is what should be done. You should only have to get to one connection point to tie it all together

I've already ordered the bond plate that goes inside the skimmer. I seen other pieces that are for creating a water bond which go inside the end of a fitting which screws into PVC T fitting. I can't find them again as I've been over so much material in the past couple days, but would they help if I put one on each side of the pool in the return lines, or is that just overkill? Is overkill with the water bond a bad thing for some reason?

One bond plate will sufficient

Wrote this awhile back - (copy & paste) Kinda ties in with the first question in this post.
"One thing, There is no way to put a continuous loop (of #8 Bonding wire ) around the pool. The entire side towards the house is deck and there are now also the two new (UNbonded of course!) concrete pads I put in for the pool.

The two concrete pads would be my concern. These are conductive surfaces and this is one area where the problem will show up first

So I'm wondering if something like that skimmer bonding plate can be wired into the ground differently.

Not rated for that

If I can't do the continuous loop around the pool, will the Bonding even work?

Yes, it does not have to be a continuous loop

I'm thinking about the buried wire just being along the backside - like 20 feet in length, because I want to rototill the yard when finished with the pool to resod, and I can just see the rototiller snagging the Bonding wire."

Bury the wire 6" down and just be carefull when tilling

As to the Koi pond, I never mentioned the fish, I got that part. I was curious as to the lack of bonding requirements because people come in contact with their ponds daily. Many feed their fish by hand and probably enter the water to deal with different things. Why is no one ever shocked there? These aren't holes someone dug in the ground, put a tarp in and added fish, many of these Koi ponds are way fancier than most swimming pools. I read for hours yesterday and not one build ever mentioned bonding. I'm not denying the need to properly bond a pool, simply asking why a pool and not a Koi pond where there is basically no difference.

I can't answer why koi ponds are not covered in the NEC.

I'm frustrated, tired and sore. I spent over $5,000 on my dog's lymphoma condition between last October and this March and it was in remission. Her lymph nodes are swelling again and my wife took her to the vet this past Saturday. We heard yesterday that the lymphoma is back and she needs to start the chemo again if we choose to keep her alive. Dog's not even 5 years old. - Please no posts about the dog, they don't help with the pool build.
The $2,000 above ground dog pool we wanted has turned into a $5,000 project just to get around the code/easement restrictions, and the dog won't make it 'til the end of the year if I don't spend another 5k on treatment.

Bottom line is, I am (have been) asking for help, ideas, and/or suggestions to patch MY lack of bonding error. As I've said, the simpler the better. If the lack of bonding isn't that big of an issue, I would like to know to know that too. I have better ways to spend my time and money.

Please keep in mind that there are no paid contributors here. We all have important things to do in our lives as well. We do this because we like to help others when we can. I can understand your frustration though and do feel for you. The whole bonding thing is a Crud shoot at best. (edit, Really, I can't use the word c r a p !) I personally know of pools where there is not one piece of bonding in place and they have no problems while the pool next door has all sorts of problems. My own personal pool is bonded with a 4' ground rod and #8 wire between it the pool wall and pump/heater

I've received more well wishes and dog stories (which I appreciate) than anything else. I had hoped that all the time I've spent creating an interesting thread with lots of pictures would lead to a bit more feedback from those in the know.

The stuff from Sani-tred should be here Friday, and I want water in the darn pool by next midweek.
I've got work to do and I just wasted an hour (okay, two hours) typing this.

 

[harleysilo]

From the construction pictures it appear you have at least 4 separate areas of re bar.

1) The initial runs of re bar in the floor appear to be touching the vertical pieces of re bar that goes up through the blocks.
2) The re bar for the skimmer
3) the re bar for the pump pad
4) Some re bar in one of the steps.

Does all that re bar have to be connected to a bonding loop?

If so it would seem you can chip out and get to the top pieces in the wall and the skimmer relatively easily. The pump pad and step inside the pool would be a pain.

 

[bob2112]

Dan, I can't thank you enough for that post! "Yes, it does not have to be a continuous loop" solves so many problems! I appreciate the time it took to clear some things up.

One last question re bonding if you can stand it! Since my pump seems to be double insulated, hence no bonding lug, is there a destination for the buried bonding wire? As in, do I just bury it and that's it, or should I tie it into the chainlink fence or elsewhere for some reason? That wouldn't make sense to me as that's more like grounding than bonding, but thought I'd ask. :?

As to the concrete pads, would having a mat to insulate them help? We were thinking about the interlocking type you can get at Home Depot to go between the pad and the steps, but I'll probably come with something more complicated than that!

Plus, people have mentioned your dog out of concern.

I understand that, and said that I appreciate it. My posting " Please no posts about the dog, they don't help with the pool build." was probably poorly worded, but I was trying to minimize the "I'm sorry your dog is dying" type posts which really do hurt more than help after yesterday's news. It's hard to even type that without tearing up, and my wife is following this thread as well and this is killing her. I APPRECIATE the comments and concern, just don't want to have it brought up over and over again. I hope everyone can understand.

Thanks to all for the posts, even from those that don't quite get the way I write LOTS to absorb here and planning to do, but I'm in the middle of digging a trench for the power line, so I'll get back to this later.

Also, I talked with the Sani-Tred folks today and it looks like I'm going to do some tile work before I apply the Sani-Tred stuff.
More later... Thanks again!!

 

[danpik]

One last question re bonding if you can stand it! Since my pump seems to be double insulated, hence no bonding lug, is there a destination for the buried bonding wire? As in, do I just bury it and that's it, or should I tie it into the chainlink fence or elsewhere for some reason? That wouldn't make sense to me as that's more like grounding than bonding, but thought I'd ask. :?

As to the concrete pads, would having a mat to insulate them help? We were thinking about the interlocking type you can get at Home Depot to go between the pad and the steps, but I'll probably come with something more complicated than that!

There is no "destination" for the bonding wire per se. It is more connection between things. The bonding of the chain link fence has always been a bit of a sticking point for me as it is somewhat bonded by being set in the ground. To satisfy the inspectors I have always used a bonding lug bolted to one of the posts. The wire holding the fence to the posts will pull the whole thing together.

 

[JohnN]

So what's the latest with this pool? I haven't been checking up on the forum lately, and this is the only post I have really been following. Any updates? Either way, I have enjoyed reading your pool build experience. Hope you got all of this worked out.

 

[bob2112]

Thanks for your interest John. Sorry I haven't been posting, just been stupid busy!

The build is moving along, but much slower than I was hoping, mostly due to rainy afternoons. I was having to put 2x4s across the pool with plywood laying on top of them and covering it with a tarp every darn afternoon, usually between 3 and 4 o'clock, which pretty much killed work for the day.
If I didn't do all the tarp stuff, it meant spending way too much time with a shop vac the next morning.

So, after getting real tired of the rain delays, I went out and got a canopy like used for parking under. The lime green on the outside is just tinted DryLok, not the end finish.

The canopy helps A LOT. It can now rain all day and the inside of the pool stays dry. Once I got the canopy I laid the travertine coping - which was a first for me. FIVE days to do the travertine and grout it. Two of those days were to grout. I had to be super meticulous grouting, because I didn't want the grout filling any of the natural vugs (holes) in the travertine. The travertine was about $450, but the boss lady and I think it was worth it. It looks stunning when wet, but I decided to not put an enhancer on it as I'd probably have to redo it every year due to the Florida sun.

Today I did the Sani-Tred coatings. 3-4 on the walls and 2 on the floor. I really like the Sani-Tred stuff, but the blue LRB (Liquid Rubber Base) is a pure bear to work with. Thankfully, I didn't have many areas that needed it.I am using it to lay the step tiles (works like a thin-set) and I'm not looking forward to that. Problem is it dries FAST.

We decided to not go with a waterline tile as it would have probably taken me a week (or more!) Too bad I already bought it... Anyway, tomorrow I will do the tile on the steps and then paint (Dura Seal epoxy) it on Sunday. It's my wife's birthday on Wednesday, and she wants water in the pool as a present. So be it.

Our little puppy girl (is 100 lbs little?) just had her 3rd chemo treatment for her lymphoma relapse and seems to be responding well, so we hope she'll be around another 6+ months - time will tell. Gotta get water in the pool ASAP so she can start enjoying it. I'll finish up the outside work and landscaping after the pool is up and running.

Gonna have to figure out this pool chemical stuff one of these days sooner than later I 'spose...

 

[JohnN]

Thanks for the update. Looks like you are coming along nicely. You'll have water in there soon enough. Good job on the pool, and once it is done you will be glad you built it. Everything is much more rewarding when you do it yourself.

 

[bob2112]

It's supposed to rain here for the next couple days, so I'm hoping to find time to update and close out this thread for those interested. Sorry to have taken so long to get back here, but even with the inside of the pool finished, my backyard still looks like World War III took place there and my work isn't close to finished!

 

[bob2112]

Not even sure where to pick up on this build. Some of this is interesting and may be helpful to anyone crazy enough to attempt a job like this, and some will be just for fun.

Going back to before I put the travertine coping on, I was trying to figure out that bonding stuff and how to make up for my lack of including it in the build back when it should have been done. Turned out to be irrelevant (kinda like the fish) but here is what I came up with.

I cut a steel mesh to lie on top of the cement blocks and wove some #8 copper wire into the mesh at each corner. Those 4 corner wires were to be / can be tied into a bonding wire to be buried around most of the pool. Would it work? Dunno. Don't really care as there doesn't seem to be any electrical shock issue. Maybe because of the coating inside the pool. (?) Anyway, I also installed one of those bonding plates inside the skimmer, and since I went to the trouble to do these bonding add on measures, I'm sure I'll get around to burying a wire and hooking all that up in the near future. Figure even if it doesn't do any good, it couldn't hurt.

Moving on, the travertine was laid over the steel mesh (which goes the entire way around the pool) using a Sakrete topping and bedding mix. I added some extra portland cement in each batch, as well as adding a liquid concrete bonding adhesive in place of about half the water when mixing up the Sakrete stuff. Also painted the liquid concrete bonding adhesive on top of the concrete blocks as I applied the Sakrete "mud" to lay the travertine pieces.
Was the the best method? Maybe not, but I researched the heck out of how to do this (and most each step of this build) and this is how I decided to do it.
C'est la vie ...

The travertine coping isn't perfect, (the pieces aren't all the same exact size) but it's close enough that only someone as anal as myself would notice any flaws.

The next step after the PermaFlex was applied was to tile the steps. Anyone care to guess what else I'd never done before? Setting tile would be the right answer... So, off to research that project on tile forums. yeah... If I recall correctly, replies to questions ranged from "that sounds interesting" to "that's not how we do things" (I get a lot of that!)

Anyway, everyone knows you use thin-set to lay tile. Well, thin-set don't play well with the PermaFlex. With PermaFlex, you use the LRB (from back in the Sani-Tred link) to set tile.
BEST part about the LRB (other than it works like a sonofagun!) is it sets up in minutes - like 10 minutes. Okay, that's actually not such a good thing when laying tile for the first time.
Bottom line - you had to work FAST and with very small batches. PITA...

NOTHING on the step area was level or square, so I'll just call the tile work "interesting" and leave it at that. I think it took me FOUR days (working all day) to tile 2¼ steps! *sigh*

welcome to my world

Done and pretty satisfied with my amateur first tile job

So, even if ya can't use thin-set over PermaFlex, ya still need to grout the tile. aah yeah...
Like I needed another can of worms! Long story short, and leaving out days (mostly nights) of research and some waffling (seriously go figure!) on what to use, I finally went with SpectraLock Pro Premium grout from Laticrete. Main reason was a 7 day cure time at 90° - I didn't have a freakin' month (28 days) to wait for grout to cure before it could be submerged.

Grouting tile is fairly straight forward and not complicated - except... this is an epoxy grout (add part A to part B and add that to part C) and the darn stuff dries to a point where it was un-usable in aaah... less than 30 minutes.

On to painting. Did I mention it's an EPOXY paint...? (Dura-Seal - Ice Blue) Had a WHOLE hour before this stuff became useless! Bought 3 gallon sets and only needed 2 - justa FYI. Added sand to the bottom with a sifter (like a kitchen flour sifter) so the bottom wouldn't be so slippery.

Kinda skimmed over the painting part, but it looks great and was easy other than ya had to keep moving once the paint was mixed.

Dog wants to know where the darn water is!

But, the grout still needed 5 more days to cure. So, I spent some of that time doing the PVC plumbing for the pump/filter. Easiest part of the entire build!

FINALLY time to add the H₂O

Dogs says: "Seriously dad?"

Took just over 4 hours to fill. 1900+ gallons.

Was it worth all the work?

YUP!

My iguana says: "Get back to me when the water hits 90°"

Diving in!

Happy ending. Dog is happy and wife is happy! Now, I get to re-sod and landscape the backyard before I get back to painting the house. It really does never end...

Thanks for viewing and MANY thanks for all the help along the way!

 

[htownjeeper]

Great job! Those last two posts made me very happy and put a huge smile on my face. Good job sir....good job.

 

[crek31]

Great thread! That is one lucky dog!