You don’t have to incredibly accurately measure 3 quarts. It’s acceptable to eyeball 3/4 gallon.
Completely disgusted with alternative sanitizer
- Thread starter cartemj06
- Start date
2300
FC was 10 after the rain and top up.
~80 0z 10% chlorine added
with an LED I can see the stairs, and I can tell I have a "tile line" on the liner again.
may do one more test before switching to recirculate and heading to bed.
FC was 10 after the rain and top up.
~80 0z 10% chlorine added
with an LED I can see the stairs, and I can tell I have a "tile line" on the liner again.
may do one more test before switching to recirculate and heading to bed.
FC was at 16 and I switched to recirculate around 12.
This morning I was at 9. Added 80oz of 10%
I can make out a floor! There’s gonna be a lot of vacuuming!
This morning I was at 9. Added 80oz of 10%
I can make out a floor! There’s gonna be a lot of vacuuming!
Me either!
0845 FC 11ppm
added 64oz of 10%
Been vacuuming to filter very slowly as I am keeping both skimmers open and using the Cheap vacuum I bought from Walmart, The Hayward vacuum sticks to the floor and I wanted to be able to keep moving.
Filter is holding steady @ 16psi.
I took today off and tomorrow off work, and I am wondering if I should get some sleep this afternoon and pull an overnight shift with the pool instead of fighting the sun for the FC? Please offer your opinions.
- Jun 1, 2018
- 16,002
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
While anytime you can add fc is a good time- you may make the most headway when the sun is asleep
Its a great plan!
*For those following along at home*
this suggestion is because there is no cya in the water at this point in the Baquacil conversion.
In general (normal situations) you should always add the fc whenever the pool needs it -whether that be day or night.
If cya is in the water there is no difference.
At this point everyone can assume unless I note something different that all additions are based on PoolMath app, TF-100 test kit, and are 10% Chlorine.
104oz @ 1000
160oz @ 1130
128oz @ 1230 (PoolMath suggested 120oz, the UV here is going to destroy this by 1300 and it wasn't worth tracking the jug with 8oz left in it.
104oz @ 1000
160oz @ 1130
128oz @ 1230 (PoolMath suggested 120oz, the UV here is going to destroy this by 1300 and it wasn't worth tracking the jug with 8oz left in it.
Flying Tivo
TFP Guide
- Jan 24, 2017
- 3,100
- Pool Size
- 7500
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Rather than fight the sun, and I didn't take a nap, I let nature take its course and threw the dolphin in to let it do what it does while I cleaned a skimmer and one return eye, second skimmer is clean minus the basket, I have one more return eye to disassemble. Im the kind of tired where your sense of humor changes so... If you get the reference you're my people!
In any event, the UV index is coming back down and we're about to resume the 15ppm and testing portion.
I was getting hot and needed a break I forgot to take a picture but the pool is as clear as it has been this season. Not TFP clear (yet) but clearer than I have seen it.
Thank you everyone who has been following along and offering the likes and advice, it has been reassuring to know you are here if anything goes western on me.
In any event, the UV index is coming back down and we're about to resume the 15ppm and testing portion.
I was getting hot and needed a break I forgot to take a picture but the pool is as clear as it has been this season. Not TFP clear (yet) but clearer than I have seen it.
Thank you everyone who has been following along and offering the likes and advice, it has been reassuring to know you are here if anything goes western on me.
- May 27, 2021
- 1,280
- Pool Size
- 17000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
So is this the fastest conversion from Biguanide in the history of the world? I haven’t followed many of the conversion threads but this one seems super fast. Well done….keep up the good work!
I tend to go all in on things, but I was thinking earlier somebody is going to think I am trolling the forum or pulling some shenanigans.
I am being 100% transparent about the process because I am still waiting for something to go sideways and I will quickly be out of my depth and need the help this place can offer.
I think I had an inadvertent head start. I am pretty sure the colorblock and reagent test I had was bunk, so it was saying I was between 30-50ppm biquanide, however my well water later tested 15ppm when I was so fed up with the situation. I am not a chemist so I have no way of knowing if the math would have worked out to 25ppm maximum in the pool or if the test was meaningful at all. The color block was probably 8 years old, and had been used how many times with no confirmation, for what its worth when I opened the pool and had the store testing done it was off by 20ppm.
I do know that I had hillbilly line cleaned everything with $35 peroxide, but the peroxide was at 0ppm the day before the test kit arrived.
In dealing with the white water mold and biofilm the had developed in the plumbing. I had already deep cleaned everything that touches the water, and the sand is like 3 weeks old and has had enough oxidizer ran through it at this point that there is probably not enough biguanide in it to really stand a chance. My hypothesis is that is the reason it's moving so quickly, the only thing that was "protecting" my pool water was an aging double dose of algaecide that was beginning to give up. If I had waited any longer to start I would have had an algae bloom.
current testing now that the sun has begun it's retreat:
2 gallons added and FC was at 16
Last edited by a moderator:
This might be the fastest "phase one"I have no way of knowing the extent of the biofilm that inhabited or could still inhabit the underground plumbing. Who knows how long it could take to kill that and pass the OCLT, or for how long I will hold how much CC, which I havent even started testing for yet.
- May 27, 2021
- 1,280
- Pool Size
- 17000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Your diligence and commitment is both impressive and deserves to be lauded. I suspect this is why you’re moving along so quickly. War on my friend….war on.
+1. No doubt. Any battle goes quicker with more effort, no matter how bad it is.
- Jun 1, 2018
- 16,002
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Flying Tivo
TFP Guide
- Jan 24, 2017
- 3,100
- Pool Size
- 7500
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
I might be wrong but the water is clear enough to exchange the sand in the filter and add 30ppm of CYA. Lets wait and hear what other have to say.
Need to have all the baqua chems gone first with 2 passed OCLTs.
I hope it's the Baqua chems at this point, every so often I get a piece of biofilm out of the return, 1/8" or so estimated size.
I thought I had gotten it all out but apparently not quite.
I lost 10ppm FC between 11:30 and 7:30.
Added 160oz Chlorine.
If I understand what I read and listened to adding the CYA will reduce the amount of HOCL available to kill any organics.
Killing any film in the plumbing since I can't get there mechanically (can I
?) is going to be a function of the strength of the chlorine and exposure time.
The water is clear, but not 100%, there is still some vacuuming to be done. Since my pool doesn't have a light at night I will use a flashlight at an angle above the surface and look at how the beam travels in the water. Think of it like smoke or vapor in front of a sunny window. you don't know how much smoke is in a room until the sunbeams come through and then you can see it. There has been a drastic reduction in the amount of particulate matter in the beam over the last couple of days.
Is 15ppm safe for a dolphin robot?
This is the hardest part, at least when I am cleaning it there's something to do.
I thought I had gotten it all out but apparently not quite.
I lost 10ppm FC between 11:30 and 7:30.
Added 160oz Chlorine.
If I understand what I read and listened to adding the CYA will reduce the amount of HOCL available to kill any organics.
Killing any film in the plumbing since I can't get there mechanically (can I
?) is going to be a function of the strength of the chlorine and exposure time.The water is clear, but not 100%, there is still some vacuuming to be done. Since my pool doesn't have a light at night I will use a flashlight at an angle above the surface and look at how the beam travels in the water. Think of it like smoke or vapor in front of a sunny window. you don't know how much smoke is in a room until the sunbeams come through and then you can see it. There has been a drastic reduction in the amount of particulate matter in the beam over the last couple of days.
Is 15ppm safe for a dolphin robot?
This is the hardest part, at least when I am cleaning it there's something to do.