for example... why couldn't I use this product (https://s3.amazonaws.com/s3.supplyhouse.com/product_files/Diversitech-734-ProductOverview.pdf) for 1/3 the cost of the waterway branded tubing? I cannot find any specifications for the WW tubing to tell me what might be different.
Complete Rebuild Started
- Thread starter MasterTinkerer
- Start date
for example... why couldn't I use this product (https://s3.amazonaws.com/s3.supplyhouse.com/product_files/Diversitech-734-ProductOverview.pdf) for 1/3 the cost of the waterway branded tubing? I cannot find any specifications for the WW tubing to tell me what might be different.
The tubing from amazon is not rated for pressure, it says it is used for drain and discharge lines in HVAC situations. I know pools need schedule 40 PVC piping, I would guess spas are the same.
Try searching for schedule 40 flexible pvc pipe.
Good luck with your rebuild!
Try searching for schedule 40 flexible pvc pipe.
Good luck with your rebuild!
Well... it's been a long time since I last updated this thread. Between traveling, working, and getting sick (probably related to the quantity of the first two), I haven't had any time since the end of October.
Finally, I started working on it again! I haven't taken enough pictures of the progress because I never want to stop when I'm in work mode... maybe I'll snap a few tonight.
Hopefully I should have water back in the tub in the next week or so. Want to check it for leaks while it is up out of the recess in the deck... then drain it and figure out how to get it back down in that recess again.
Finally, I started working on it again! I haven't taken enough pictures of the progress because I never want to stop when I'm in work mode... maybe I'll snap a few tonight.
- All tub-side components (except light and thermocouple port) are installed.
- Replaced the plywood on the bottom of the frame while the tub was hanging from the gantry I built to pull it out.
- Put the tub back into the frame and dismantled the gantry (I was sad to tear down my engineering marvel, but my wife was happy that her view from the kitchen to the back deck is no longer blocked by a tub hanging overhead)
- I've started the PVC plumbing.
- Figured out how to get rid of the ugly loop from the pump to the heater by turning the wet end of the pump 90 degrees and angling the assembly 45 degrees.
- Now I'm stuck on getting the lines from the suction housings over to the pump intake. There is less room in there than I thought there would be and the up-sizing to 2" PVC is making it harder. I have a concept, but honestly am not very good with PVC plumbing yet.
Hopefully I should have water back in the tub in the next week or so. Want to check it for leaks while it is up out of the recess in the deck... then drain it and figure out how to get it back down in that recess again.
- May 23, 2015
- 25,721
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Why the upsize to 2”? Do you have the pumping curves for you hot tub pump so you can check head loss versus flow rate? If you operate a pump off it’s pumping curve you waste energy and, more importantly, can cause noise and cavitation that can damage the pump.
Honestly- no I didn’t. My thought process was probably simplistic in that the pump and heater both had 2” plumbing, so thE rest of the system should too...
I started searching a bit today and can’t figure out the plumbing head for the various waterway components (25 sq ft top load cartridge filter, 5 poly storm jet bodies, 1 power storm jet body, and 9 cluster storm jet bodies on the pressure side... 2 super hi-flo suction assemblies on the auction side.)
As far as pipe length, there is probably 4 feet on suction side and 12 feet on the pressure side
- May 3, 2007
- 18,089
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Spa jets have quite a bit of head loss, they convert pressure to velocity, so I would not worry too much about up sizing the pipe. In fact, I always recommend even larger pipe (2.5"+) when it comes to spas. Plus with the heater and filter in line, the total return head loss will be high enough to stay away from run out. However, I would make sure the suction pipe is at least as big as the return pipe so the suction head stays low.
Thanks mas. I have a question regarding my plumbing. Below is a rough (and I mean rough) sketch of my current plumbing situation.
As previously mentioned, all of the plumbing is in 2" PVC. The jets will be connected via 3/4" tubing with 2" waterway manifolds on the PVC lines.
My question... should I run a pipe from left to right along the bottom (shown as a dotted line) to make a pressurized loop of filtered water or let the left and right legs dead end?
Notes about my crappy sketch:
- The green lines represent the suction side - connected to Waterway Super Hi-Flo Suction Assy (Waterway part # 640-3577)
- The red lines represent unfiltered pressurized water
- The yellow lines represent filtered pressurized water
- I didn't bother putting the 3/4" tubing in there
- The filter is a waterway 25 sq ft top load cartridge filter (with bypass) - part number 502-2510
- May 23, 2015
- 25,721
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
I like the sketch, simplifies the layout.
[deleted my dumb comment after realizing I read the diagram wrong
]
I like the idea of having a complete loop on the return side but suspect it probably doesn’t make a huge difference as long as both sides have balanced head loss.
Of course, what Mark says, goes...
[deleted my dumb comment after realizing I read the diagram wrong
]I like the idea of having a complete loop on the return side but suspect it probably doesn’t make a huge difference as long as both sides have balanced head loss.
Of course, what Mark says, goes...
I like the sketch, simplifies the layout.
[deleted my dumb comment after realizing I read the diagram wrong
I like the idea of having a complete loop on the return side but suspect it probably doesn’t make a huge difference as long as both sides have balanced head loss.
Of course, what Mark says, goes...
My original plans were to finish the loop... but I wanted to get a second opinion.
It makes sense to me from an equalized pressure standpoint, but I can’t reconcile the concept of flow through the loop
- May 23, 2015
- 25,721
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
- May 3, 2007
- 18,089
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
With 2" pipe, there might be some benefit. The larger the pipe around the jets, the less it matters. If it is hard to loop, then you might consider larger pipe around the spa.
Also, was the heater originally before the filter? I would think having the heater before the filter risks getting debris lodged in the element.
yes... the heater is mounted to the back of the control board... less than 2 feet from the pump. there is a picture earlier in the thread that shows the weird loop that was originally in place for plumbing from the pump output to the heater input.
- - - Updated - - -
I looked at it based on your earlier recommendations. I didn't go for it because I didn't read very positive comments about those systems... maybe it was just bad input. Do you have a recommended system?
I have plenty of room from the heater output to the filter input. It is currently one long run of PVC.
- May 23, 2015
- 25,721
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
On a pool, UV isn’t too useful. In a hot tub, it can be very useful as a way to eliminate persistent organic combined chlorine compounds, also known as trihalomethanes (THM) and disinfection by-products (DBPs).
If it were physically possible, I would use an external tank system, like a Paramount UltraUV, and then have a by-pass loop with valves that lets you treat the water externally. UV oxidation of organic bather waste PRIOR TO chlorine oxidation is a very effective method for eliminating organic compounds like urea and creatinine. Once organic become chlorinated, they can be hard to get rid of.
If it were physically possible, I would use an external tank system, like a Paramount UltraUV, and then have a by-pass loop with valves that lets you treat the water externally. UV oxidation of organic bather waste PRIOR TO chlorine oxidation is a very effective method for eliminating organic compounds like urea and creatinine. Once organic become chlorinated, they can be hard to get rid of.
Question: is there a recommended minimum distance of straight pipe prior to the suction side of the pump? I was shooting for 24”, but I think that 12” is the best I’m going to be able to do.
- May 3, 2007
- 18,089
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
It isn't critical. Do what ever is easiest.
BTW, are those sweep 90s Schedule 40 or just DWV? I would recommend sticking with all Sch40 fittings.
All SCH40... actually Waterway brand sweeps... $2.57 each from getpoolparts.com.
I messed up the pipe from the pump to the heater... cut it too long and didn’t realize it until I had everything together. Dry-fitting PVC is a skill I’m not proficient at yet. That’s why there’s a coupling in there. Trying to keep straight runs and minimal fittings as much as possible
As I get closer to completing my plumbing, my thought turns to insulation. The spray-on insulation on the tub looks like it is so thin that it is almost useless. Any recommendations?
I see a product called FiberCor, but cannot find a place to purchase it.
I see a product called FiberCor, but cannot find a place to purchase it.
Finally! It’s done!!
Well... in the world of a tinkerer, nothing is ever done. But at least it is operational for everyone to enjoy.
Next things to do - add a UV system. Replace the light niche (it is one of the two tub-side parts I didn’t replace and it is dripping water [emoji36])
Well... in the world of a tinkerer, nothing is ever done. But at least it is operational for everyone to enjoy.
Next things to do - add a UV system. Replace the light niche (it is one of the two tub-side parts I didn’t replace and it is dripping water [emoji36])