Complete newbie getting started with my first pool

OK, seems things are pointed in the right direction. Salt now reads 3,200 and the cell is fired up and working. TA is down to around 100, pH at 7.6 and FC at 5. The CYA is at 40 so I added some in a sock today and hopefully that can get the CYA levels up a bit.

So now I'm down to three questions:

1. Easytouch panel still has a COM LINK ERROR when I go to look at salt units. From what I can see, the salt cell is wired correctly. Any thoughts on how I may fix that to get a salt reading on the panel?

2. I started with the IC20 at a 20% output but was wondering how best to determine the right level. Is this just a case of testing chlorine daily and adjusting if we get low/high?

3. Calcium sitting at 175 seems a bit low. Should I worry about raising that with a fiberglass pool or is it ok at that level?

Thanks as always for everything.
 
Sorry I don't know anything about Question 1. Here's my advice on the rest:

2. Use Pool Math to estimate your settings. Go to "Effects of Adding" then set your pool size and brand/model of chlorinator. Enter % power and runtime then PM will calculate ppm FC added. Target 1.5-2ppm for this time of year then tweak runtime or % power to fine tune.
3. CH shouldn't matter much for your pool

Good luck!

Chris
 
1. Easytouch panel still has a COM LINK ERROR when I go to look at salt units. From what I can see, the salt cell is wired correctly. Any thoughts on how I may fix that to get a salt reading on the panel?

@Jimrahbe @JamesW ideas on the ET to IC20 COM LINK ERROR?
 
Mc,

Is your SWCG power supply internal to your EasyTouch or do you have an external power supply?

If internal, you should have a small board on the back wall of the EasyTouch that looks like this..


Make sure this board is connected to the Main Board com port at J20.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
If I'm following your question (and I think I am), it appears the data cable was not installed (the com port in my ET has the Screenlogic (all 4 colors) and green/yellow) connection for the pump. Are you able to point me to what type of wire I need as it seems like something I should be able to easily fix with the right wire. Thanks much.

1588195359046.png
 
Run a UL approved four conductor cable (22 AWG) from the IntelliChlor Power Center to the Load Center. The preferred wire color scheme is red, yellow, green, and black.

Any basic 4 conductor communication wire (22 AWG) will work.

Just make sure that the wiring sequence is correct.
 
Run a UL approved four conductor cable (22 AWG) from the IntelliChlor Power Center to the Load Center. The preferred wire color scheme is red, yellow, green, and black.

Any basic 4 conductor communication wire (22 AWG) will work.

Just make sure that the wiring sequence is correct.

Hooked up a the four conduct cable yesterday (red, white, green, black wires -- 22 AWG) and still get the Com Error. Ugh.
 

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First time around I had it all backwards in the IntelliChlor Power Center (I looked at it upside down when I wired it) and it not only caused the salt cell not to work but it screwed up my pump settings as well. I fixed it and then the pump settings came back but the COM LINK ERROR when I run the Intellichlor diagnostics is still there. I tried resetting and no luck. First it reads as shown in the picture below as the salt cell reboots and then it goes back to com link error:

1588711306648.png
 
After a few months playing with chemicals in our new pool, I thought I was in pretty good shape. But one area of concern I wanted to check with the board on. Here are current readings:

PH: 7.5
FC: 2
CYA: 70
TA: 90

So the one number I've been struggling with is FC. When the SWG first kicked on, I could run it anywhere from 20% to 40% and my FC level was around 5 usually. My concern back then was the CYA level which was low and I kept working on to bring up to protect the FC. Now the CYA is in the range I was hoping to achieve but the FC stays low even though I run the SWG at 60%. I just kicked it up to 80% now with the hope to get the FC up over 3 again. Seems to be high and I'm wondering if anyone has suggestions as to why the FC seems to be diving. The pool isn't cloudy per se but not as crystal clear as it was a few weeks ago. Thanks in advance.
 
Are you testing for CC as well as FC? The CC number, if above zero, indicates that there is something your chlorine is working on. Which may be the case, since your water has lost its sparkle.

Weather is a factor too... I have to boost up my SWG as temps rise. I would use liquid chlorine to get your FC where you want it, then tweak the SWG until it is able to maintain.
 
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Are you testing for CC as well as FC? The CC number, if above zero, indicates that there is something your chlorine is working on. Which may be the case, since your water has lost its sparkle.

Weather is a factor too... I have to boost up my SWG as temps rise. I would use liquid chlorine to get your FC where you want it, then tweak the SWG until it is able to maintain.


Just went back out and retested after a little time at 80% and FC is 2.5 while CC is 0.5.

Yesterday was a hot day and we've had a lot of rain so perhaps I just need to get it back up to 5 and see what % can maintain it there.
 
Or get a jug of liquid chlorine for this and to get your FC to target then see if your SWG will keep it there.
 
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