Cloudy water, super high CYA, time to drain?

[Glenmoore Guy]

This is my 3rd year opening my above ground pool that I inherited when I bought my house 4 years ago. I always seem to have some issue on opening and I would appreciate some guidance!

I opened my pool on 4/19/20 and the water was pretty dark green. I could see the bottom. I balanced the water, vacuumed and added a starting kit from Doheneys (metal out, shock, algaecide, water clarifier). That didn't seem to do anything.

During the first two days I found the pressure in my DE filter went up 10 psi, even after bumping, so I changed out the DE. It was caked brown but still white underneath. Today (4/21/20), the pressure was back up, so I opened the pump to re-sit the basket and now now the pressure is only increasing by 6 PSI. (Not sure the filter pressure has any relation to my water clarity issue).

Earlier today (4/21/20) I added two gallons of liquid shock and have not seen much of a difference throughout the day.

My current chemical numbers are:

Alkalinity: 110 ppm
pH: 7.4
FC: 10 (kit only goes up to 10 ppm)
TC: 7.5 or 10... the color was hard to differentiate
CYA: did not reach 100 marker (so over 100?). Sample is very cold so I will re-test at room temperature.

Based on the reading I've done here and the high CYA level, it seems the SLAM process will be ineffective until I drain some of the water out and refill the pool. Is that true? How much should I drain? This might also explain why my pool is always so highly chlorinated even in the middle of summer!

I appreciate any help and guidance here.

(I will also be ordering the TF-100 test as I have seen recommended on other threads.)

 

[mknauss]

Welcome to the forum!
100 is the limit of the CYA test, so you have to do a diluted test. Mix 50% pool water with 50% tap water. Use this mixed sample as your test water. Multiply the result by 2 for your CYA level.
Then determine how much water to drain to get to a CYA of 40 ppm or so.
Once you have done that, add 5 ppm FC worth of liquid chlorine to the pool every day with pump running. Once you get your TF100, run a full set of tests and post them here.
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry.

 

[Glenmoore Guy]

Trust the process!

Dumped half the water and refilled. Today's numbers with the TF-100 kit:

TA: 110-110 ppm (speed stir spins the color out...)
pH: 7.2
Cl: 2 ppm
CYA: 40-50 ppm

Based on the SLAM process, it looks like I am adding chlorine to get to 16-20 ppm. Based on your suggestion @mknauss I will dump 5 ppm and retest in the morning. Then add accordingly to get to the SLAM level.

Should I worry about metals in the water given I added from local township water? I have metal out at hand.

Current water clarity picture attached.

 

[mknauss]

Clearing the pool of algae is first before metals. The chlorine you use to kill the algae will eliminate any sequestrant you try to use.

No need to wait. Raise your FC level to 20 ppm based on your 50 ppm CYA. Test and add LC as often as you can. When the water turns blue and cloudy you should be able to reduce to testing and adding LC to two or three times per day.

 

[YippeeSkippy]

Whoa! Do you even know that you *have* metals in the water?? Take a sample down to the pool store and as for a metals test. Why use something you may not need???

In fact, that entire Doheny's start up kit is a waste of money. You should never use claifiers in DE filtered pools. All you probably needed was liquid chlorine, liquid chlorine and more liquid chlorine.

Maddie

 

[Casey]

How does the pool look?

 

[Glenmoore Guy]

@mknauss I am not clear on what you said earlier: "When the water turns blue and cloudy you should be able to reduce to testing and adding LC to two or three times per day". The water is no longer cloudy, just not as blue as it should be. I am also testing every couple of hours and given target of 20 ppm, I am only adding chlorine twice a day.

@YippeeSkippy I usually end up having metals in my pool water because of our local supply. I don't actually know that I have metals, and I will take the sample down to Leslie's to check. And I agree with the startup kit, complete waste of money. I'm a complete pool noob and I've learned so much from just a couple hours of reading here. I feel like I get it now. chlorine, Chlorine, CHLORINE! Ad a better testing kit.

GC is 22 ppm now and has been at that level for over 12 hours now. I will retest later and fun chlorine is needed. Do I want to keep at the target 20ppm or add more chlorine now.

Current water color attached. The water is clear and should continue to get more blue. I also attached a picture from 2018 that shows what the water *should* look like. I'm getting there...

 

[YippeeSkippy]

A TFP clear pool is probably clearer than you've ever seen one before. If you can toss a quarter in to the deep end and see if its heads or tails you'll be TFP gin-clear. Seriously. People come back all the time saying they never saw or knew pools could look so good!

Maddie

 

[mknauss]

Once your pool water is clear as Maddie stated, then if it has a green tint that is most likely iron. You will then need to decide to use sequestrant as a maintenance item.

 

[Glenmoore Guy]

Usually a one time metal treatment, per season, after I add township water takes away the green tint.

 

[Glenmoore Guy]

Well, pool looks really nice now! If it wasn't for the cold weather, there would be swimming this week-end...

I will look of course, but any quick link(s) on how to properly chlorinate with tablets? I think I put too many in at one time so there is a lot of stabilizer and the chlorine holds at high levels even in the blaring sun.

 

[mknauss]

How to Chlorinate Your Pool

Before chlorinating your pool, you should know these simple tips. Learn the best way to add chlorine to your pool.

www.troublefreepool.com

Trichlor tablets are not a sustainable way to chlorinate your pool on a daily basis. Use liquid chlorine. Use the tablets when you will be away from the pool for a few days on vacation, etc.