Cloudy spa water

Thanks for everyone’s help I just did a test on the pool i am still having problems with the chlorine i think I’m testing it wrong or I actually do have no chlorine in there
Describe how you are testing FC in detail.

If you add the powder and the water does not turn pink, you have no chlorine.
 
No idea where in "vic" you are. Randomly searching a couple of stores near Melbourne, I found this one: 15L Liquid Chlorine
The "PoolWerx" chain, at least on line, does not show liquid as an option. But you might call to make sure. Here in the States, some of the stores near me do not advertise it, but have it.
I only checked those two. There are likely others that carry it.
These guys will ship, although costs might then make it high. https://www.bunnings.com.au/hy-clor-5l-liquid-chlorine_p3090280
Seems if I’m doing that every day for pool and spa it’s going to go very quick and cost me a fortune
 

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If you are using 6% bleach found at the local store where you buy laundry supplies, it might. The Pools Store variety is up to twice as strong, so you use 1/2 as much. And the cost per liter, at least here in the States, is much less than the laundry kind. From our other discussion about the pool, the cost for what you need to use is the same as the Dichlor that you are using.

You need to fill in the current CYA level of 40 in the above screen shot, to get the accurate amount of liquid to add. Right now, the amount is too low.
You won't know anything with only one test. Log it. Test the next day and enter the new Cl result from testing. Add the new quantity of liquid that Pool Math tells you to. Repeat daily for a week. The amount to add will be less. At the end of the week, you will have a much better idea as to how much you may go through over time.
 
You haven't been reading all the previous posts and information provided. And there is a strong resistance to not being able to just add a little bit, when you feel like it. Again, I understand that you apparently got into this unaware, and likely were either not informed or mis-informed by those who sold you the pool/spa. But you are into it now.

Your pool/spa has never had a chance to get enough Cl, frequently enough. That's why all the testing always comes back at 0.

This first dose is more. Just add it. Now.
If lucky, the new test numbers the next day will reveal that you have to add a smaller amount. Again, if lucky, some amount will be in the water, leftover from this first addition, so you then only have to make up what was lost. And the same then for following days.

We don't know at this point how good/bad the situation is for living things growing in your pool. Even if the water is not cloudy and there does not seem to be anything on the surfaces, there could be a LOT more than you know. If so, more Cl will be used up each day, until all the algae/bacteria are killed. Maybe even all of what you added. While the hope is your test tomorrow shows you need to add less than the current amount, don't be shocked if it still shows you have to add a lot again. Very worst case, much higher amounts than the current amount to add may be needed, for days, until things are sanitary.

THEN, the amounts you need to add to maintain the daily level will drop to be much, much less. Once you reach that point, only then will you be able to estimate how much you have to buy each week/month.

Don't use Dichor or add stabilizer at all during this couple of week testing and adding period. If you do, you will have to add even more chlorine than you otherwise will need, and that will be a waste of money.
 
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I only have dichlor chlorine what am I meant to add if I don’t have that ?

I was just asking if pool math looked correct for the chlorine I am happy to put in that much just didn’t want to put too much in. Plan is to put it in every day and test the next and see what happens

Another question alkalinity was 100 possibly even 125 as the test kit said if not sure of the colour add another drop,
but ph was fine do I leave it or need to put chemicals in ?
 

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Since your prior screen shot showed 6% liquid, I assume you had found some.

Where in "vic" are you (roughly)? You NEED to get some liquid chlorine. We can try to get some of the Australians here to help you out in finding a place to get it from.

Alkalinity accompanies pH levels. Right now your pH is perfect, so no worries. The slightly high Alk will slowly raise your pH. When it gets to 8 or above, you'll add acid to bring it down. That will also bring down your Alk a little. Over time, the slowly lowering Alk will not change the pH as much, and everything will stabilize. You won't need to test Alk much. Just pH.
 
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Sorry I was just checking how much it would cost me with liquid chlorine. There doesn’t seem to be many aussies around in this forum I have a place that has liquid chlorine someone recommended I just need to get down there. Can I use dichlor until then ?

Another question I’m in a spa pool fb page someone suggested iluka sea minerals have you ever heard of that ?
 
They just haven't seen this discussion, and aren't aware that you need specific geographic help. I'll see if I or others can direct them here for advice.

Using Dichlor will drive your CYA too high in less than 3 weeks. Maybe only two if that is all that you use for the whole time.
You can try it out for the next 2-3 days, but make sure to test CYA at the end of the 2-3 kdays.

The minerals may make your skin feel better. They are useless for sanitizing.
 
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@AUSpool is online perhaps he can direct you to a good source for dedicated pool liquid chlorine down under.
Until then plain household bleach will work as well.
The dichlor is fine for a little bit as @sande005 mentioned but it will soon drive your cya too high.
Its more for startup to help you build cya while also chlorinating and a little cya maintenance now & then as needed.
Chlorine is King 🤴
Ph is Queen 👸
 
You can get pool chlorine at bunnings or a larger pool shop. Check the prices as some pool shops get it delivered in bulk and it can be cheeper than bunnings. Bunnings is similar to a Home Depo or Lowe’s in the US. If you’re going to use a coles or Woolies bleach it needs to have no additives, like scented etc. Plain bleach is ok but you’ll probably find pool chlorine at 12% will be the same cost wise.

A pool or tub is a bit like a pet, a little daily attention goes a long way. You need to maintain a free chlorine, FC, residual. Your FC needs to be maintained as per the chart previously posted. You need to know what your CYA level is to maintain your pool/tub the TFP way.

See hear for tips on the CYA test,
I like the fill to the line method,
As much as possible, you should do the CYA test in the same consistent light conditions:

  • Outside in full sun or use the brightest indirect indoor light that you can if you have to test at night
  • Back to the sun
  • Don't stare at the dot as you pour
  • Fill to a line, hold the tube waist high, and glance at the dot
  • If you see the dot, fill to the next line and glance at the dot
  • When the dot disappears, you round up the previous line. If you saw the dot at 40 and not at 30, then you call it 40
After reading, you can pour the mixture back into the mixing bottle and try it again; repeated readings on the same sample will give you confidence in the result.

“iluka sea minerals have you ever heard of that ?” If you've got plenty of money to waste give it ago, but its just a fancy salt that you dont need.

The banish is a phosphate remover, a flocculant. You add it, let it settle and vacuum it to waste. You don't need it, if your phosphates are really supper high you would be better and cheeper to drain and refil.

The clarifiers can clog up your filter, stay away from them. Stay away from anything that pretends to be a ‘miracle’ cure.

You’ve been running with no residual sanitiser and I suspect you need more then just water change. I imagine you have a bit of a biofilm growth and need to clean it out with a spa and hot tub treatment to clean out all the plumbing.
 
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Spa chlorine is most likely dichlor, with maybe some borax for good measure.

Looking at the specs for the “Vortex dual zone swim spa” it looks like you have a filter and an ozone generator or UV?
 
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I just watched a video from the spa/pool maker and it said to only use spa Chlorine is that true ?
Either dichlor or liquid chlorine is fine to use - so long as you add it directly to the water (in front of a running return)
Once in the water, chlorine is chlorine.
Never let any pool/spa chem contact the shell or headrests etc.
and do not ever add any chemicals to the skimmer/filter area no matter what they suggest.
 
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As far as I am aware it does what it means I have no idea
I don’t understand. If you don’t know, how do you know? It’s at lest two years old and nothing lasts forever. These systems need regular maintenance, new bulbs or discharge tubes, etc. Having said that I’m not a fan of either UV or ozone, neither provide a residual sanitiser and both react with FC which is an oxidiser, sanitiser and provides residual sanitiser.

Be careful trying to mix info from FB, pool stores and the TFP method. Simple “try this” answers on FB are never helpful, there are no magic cures.

I must confess though, I’ve never really concerned myself with hot tubs. But from what Ive read yours could benifit from a deep clean. In the US they talk about a product called Ahhsome. Im sure we have something similar, a spa cleaner.

See.
 
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