Cloudy pool help

[MaxAcceleration]

Hope somebody can help me. I've been on the BBB method for five years with great results but recently my pool has been cloudy and I can't figure out why.

Here's my test results:

CL: 7.5
CC: 0
PH: 7.6
CYA: 35 (this one is the most difficult to read, the black dot goes away 90% at 35, but I can always see a little tiny bit (maybe 5-10% of it) even when tube is filled.
ALk: 250
Calcium: 125
CSI: 0.2

It has been cloudy for the last 2 months. Since my chemicals seemed fine, my focus turned to the sand filter. I removed all the sand from my filter, checked all my laterals (which were fine). The sand itself was filthy (with small pieces of grass clippings coming out) when I took it out (even after a thorough backwash) so I figured I found the problem and though maybe the sand had some channeling going on. I put a hose in the water as I was pulling it out so the krud would float up and out the top of the filter. The resulting sand (which is about 3 years old) which I put in lawn mower utility cart, looked very clean. I let it soak in Kleen for a couple hours and then backwashed it thoroughly. When starting back up over the next couple of days it did clear up some but it has never been as clear as it used to. ie.... I used to be able to see the steps in the shallow end while being in the deep end - not it's just a haze.

It's not so bad where I can't see the bottom. Speaking of which, I've been getting the powdery dust at the bottom also. It's got a slight yellowish tint to it and the second I brush it, it dissipates. If I try to suck it up via a vacuum I attach to the skimmer, it will just return the following day. I tried vacuuming to waste before also and it just seems to keep coming back. I'll attach pictures.

My liner is 13 years old and due for replacement next year (has tears above water line) and I'll be draining the pool so I'll get to start from scratch, but I'm sure stumped on this one as of right now.

Also my solar cover is need replacement next year and has the bubbles falling off. (don't know if deteriorating solar covers would matter, that's why I'm mentioning).

I'll do an OLCT tonight but I don't expect to find anything since my daily chlorine addition has been about 60oz (it's on a Steiner pump injected).

Would the high Alk level cause the cloudiness? Thought I read somewhere that it didn't really matter since my PH has been really steady and I don't have a high CSI.

I'm on nasty well water, but I have a whole house filter (Big Blue filter) as well as a garden hose filter. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AXP8B9O/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thinking as I type, I did add a sprinkler system this summer, I wonder if somehow that is using up my Big Blue whole house filter and the water going into the pool is nastier than usual because of the excess water usage. I could try changing the filter out (I usually change every six months, maybe I need to go to every 3). Should I try some clarifier? I've tried staying away from all those "extras" over the years.

Any ideas?

Thanks,
Jamie

 

[BattleOfYakima]

Do not add clarifier.

Either do the OCLT or just do what I'd do and skip stright to SLAM Process. I'm guessing it is crystal clear in 2-3 days.

- - - Updated - - -

Also, the sand never goes bad (3 years is still new sand) - but as you learned does need what we call a yearly deep cleaning, the TFP procedure is explained here and differs slightly from how you cleaned your sand: http://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/73192-Deep-Cleaning-a-Sand-Filter

 

[BattleOfYakima]

No, high alk will not cloud it, but can tend to encourage PH to rise above 7.8 undesirably quickly in some pools. If your PH stays 7.2-7.8 for long periods of time, your alk isn't a problem for you no need to adjust unless high ph has been a plague to you.

I think you've just got a little algae since you're only adding about 2FC per day with the stenner at 60oz/day. Are you also adding cal-hypo, floaters/sticks, or manually adding some bleach from time to time? If not, I'm surprised you're able to maintain FC 7 or so on that addition. I think it dipped below the target range at some point and you picked up a little algae that you've been toying with for a couple months. Time to SLAM it.

 

[MaxAcceleration]

Are you also adding cal-hypo, floaters/sticks, or manually adding some bleach from time to time? If not, I'm surprised you're able to maintain FC 7 or so on that addition.

Nope, wasn't adding anything additional. PH has been steady too. I know I'm surprised too. That's what was really shocking (pun intended - lol) me. I figured my chlorine would not maintain with only 60oz if there was algae. This was my first algae outbreak. Not sure what happened because I've been keeping pretty steady with the chlorine using the Stenner pump. The only thing I can think I've is I underestimated the amount of CYA, that black dot test doesn't completely go away at 35ppm

I skipped straight to SLAM for Mustard Algae (CL of 22) this morning and now the algae is gone. Amazing, thought I'd be vacuuming up a bunch of "dead" algae, looks like it just disappears. Took a bunch of adjusting and brushing at first but it's stable now.

Pool is still cloudy some so I'll measure the OCLT tonight and also just keep maintaining at 22 until clear.

Thanks for your help, I'll update tomorrow.

 

[BattleOfYakima]

"really shocking" that was cute. Don't stress over the CYA reading, just get close. Remember that the test itself, when performed correctly, is still +/- 15, which is taken into account on our [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA] chart. Some pools, usually with odd shaped, woods, windy, beachfront, heavy use, full tropical sun, or other enhanced sanitation challenges require the FC be kept either at the high end of the target range or a point above to provide the lowest circulation zones at least the min FC at all times, or to buffer the extra FC demand between injections. Perhaps up the injection by a half FC or a full FC or increase pump run time until the summer-ish weather passes.

FYI/for the record, the mustard algae shock level is used like this: https://www.troublefreepool.com/content/148-mustard-algae

 

[domct203]

I skipped straight to SLAM for Mustard Algae (CL of 22) this morning and now the algae is gone. Amazing, thought I'd be vacuuming up a bunch of "dead" algae, looks like it just disappears. Took a bunch of adjusting and brushing at first but it's stable now.

Pool is still cloudy some so I'll measure the OCLT tonight and also just keep maintaining at 22 until clear.

Thanks for your help, I'll update tomorrow.

FWIW I don't think this is mustard algae....

The FC should not be raised to mustard algae levels until after you complete a standard SLAM. With a CYA of 40ppm (always round up, the CYA scale is not linear) your FC shock level is 16ppm for the duration of the SLAM. Once you pass all three criteria to end the SLAM you can raise FC to your mustard algae shock level of 24ppm for 24 hours only.

Please see the mustard article that BattleOfYakima linked above.

 

[MaxAcceleration]

I passed the OCLT last night! The water is clear! No FC loss, No CC. Awesome! Thank you guys so much for the knowledge and guidance. I do think it was mustard algae because it was yellowish across most of the pool, and went away when I SLAM'd it at mustard FC level (ie... it wasn't pollen). It didn't really show in pictures so I couldn't photo it, but it was a thin layer across most of the pool. I guess one way I could have photo'd it would have been to use the pool brush and make lines next to it so it would contrast. If ya look in the first picture you can see a small example of it on the sides just above the main deposits - ya really have to look hard to see it. Either way, I'm super happy and my faith is re-restored in BBB. I was really starting to lose faith and remember long lost days of having a super clean pool.

Why is it when you're trying to get rid of mustard algae that you go to SLAM *first*, then raise to mustard level after passing? Why not just go to mustard level like I did? ie.... what hard does it do? I'm not disapproving, I'm just asking for my own knowledge.

The good news is I think I now know when I need to shock. I'm so anti-shock because of this forum (a good thing normally). I think the reason I was not shocking was my chemical usage showed normal and my daily numbers looked good. I was blaming my sand filter - which it did need a good cleaning so I'm glad I did that! Also I was thinking it was BS about the sand not getting old (because of all of the above - chemical usage looking good, good daily numbers, etc yet it wasn't cleaning) - which now my faith is restored!

So glad for this place, and thank you, thank you, thank you!

Jamie

 

[BattleOfYakima]

FC above the shock level per current cya is much more vulnerable to excessive sunlight and additionally puts the liner/plaster in harsher conditions. The shock level is a best bang for your buck, very good paced, and quite finish friendly balance of immediate sanitizing desires and pool longevity. The SLAM process, with 24 hr circulation and manual brushing enables chlorine to penetrate the algae's protective biofilm and steadily make progress each day. Once you pass OCLT, you've got virtually all the algae gone, if not all, but given the resilient nature of MA, one final insurance policy is worth it, and for this, along with another day of circulation and brushing, we increase the FC to MA shock level so it can get anything that was missed or evaded us. Because there isn't any regular algae or organics consuming the bleach, we know that only sunlight and any remaining MA is using up the FC. Very efficient to handle everything else first before the final sweep at higher level, with minimal extra risk to finish. As with all algae, the SLAM will only be as effective as your brushing, cleaning behind lights, ladders, and any other algae hiding spots, or else the second FC drops below min in that part of the pool, boom, the race is on. Next to stay in target and be sure to circulate enough hours a day for your pool's situation.

 

[duraleigh]

Why is it when you're trying to get rid of mustard algae that you go to SLAM *first*, then raise to mustard level after passing? Why not just go to mustard level like I did? ie.... what hard does it do? I'm not disapproving, I'm just asking for my own knowledge.
Jamie

The mustard Algae process is sort of like wearing both belt and suspenders....extra insurance as Yakima says above. You can certainly go straight to the Mustard Algae process if you like but in most algae outbreaks, it is simply not necessary and wastes your chlorine and precious beer money.

Your description sounds exactly like mustard algae so you did the right thing by giving this difficult type of algae the extra "blast" of chlorine it often needs.......most all other types do not.