Mr. Muriaticacid

Well-known member
Apr 25, 2016
78
Owasso , OK
Pool Size
25000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
I know people like to wait until their water temp is 60 or below but in Oklahoma that might not be until December. I have trees and I like to close before the leaves all end up in the pool. I have a safety cover and I bring the pool up to slam level before closing. When I open in the spring I still have chlorine in the water, usually around 8-10 ppm. We rarely get a hard freeze that lasts very long and I know some people here leave their pool running all year but due to the long hot summers I am ready for a break from pool maintenance by the time October rolls around. The point is, I don’t think that it’s necessary to wait for a certain water temp before closing. Does anyone agree or disagree with my method?
 
If it works for you - fantastic. That's #1. We know that in general, algae is more active in temps over 60 degrees. By increasing the FC level at closing, and/or using Polyquat 60, it helps to keep the water algae-free until water temps really plummet. Sounds like you have consistent experience for your area that should provide reliable expectations each spring. If it's working, stick with it..
 
You do what you gotta do. In NW Georgia the water temps start falling in late Sept, but they're never at 60 degrees when we close. Like you, our leaves start falling before the temps do!

We closed last Saturday, brought it up to SLAM levels, added poly 60 and covered it. I plan to add chlorine every Saturday to keep it high so I don't have a mess like last year.
 
You do what you gotta do. In NW Georgia the water temps start falling in late Sept, but they're never at 60 degrees when we close. Like you, our leaves start falling before the temps do!

We closed last Saturday, brought it up to SLAM levels, added poly 60 and covered it. I plan to add chlorine every Saturday to keep it high so I don't have a mess like last year.
Do you Bring to slam and then let the FC drift back down into range and then add poly 60? How much Poly 60 did you add? What was your water temp at closing?
 
I know people like to wait until their water temp is 60 or below but in Oklahoma that might not be until December. I have trees and I like to close before the leaves all end up in the pool. I have a safety cover and I bring the pool up to slam level before closing. When I open in the spring I still have chlorine in the water, usually around 8-10 ppm. We rarely get a hard freeze that lasts very long and I know some people here leave their pool running all year but due to the long hot summers I am ready for a break from pool maintenance by the time October rolls around. The point is, I don’t think that it’s necessary to wait for a certain water temp before closing. Does anyone agree or disagree with my method?
What is your water temp currently? Any idea on what the water temp might be when you close?
 
What is your water temp currently? Any idea on what the water temp might be when you close?
Water is around 75 and it was 89 degrees here today. I plan on closing this Saturday. Like I said, with the cover on the chlorine stays pretty high until spring.
 
My water is hanging around mid to high 60’s. We do have a cold front coming through this weekend. I use a loop loc safety cover and hoping to close in a couple weeks. My neighbor closed two weeks ago with the loop loc safety cover. They poured in four gallons of LC and closed it up. Two weeks go my water was 80 degrees when he closed.
 
Do you Bring to slam and then let the FC drift back down into range and then add poly 60? How much Poly 60 did you add? What was your water temp at closing?

I didn't let the chlorine drift down -- I added it and the poly 60 at approximately the same time, then circulated for an hour or so.

My pool is roughly 4100 gal, so I used about 5 to 6 oz of 60.

My water temp was around 67.
 

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