Closing older pool - atypical layout

[Towerhouse]

Hey Friends,

I have a 20k gallon plaster pool. It is old and doesn't seem to have a lot of modern design elements you see referenced in closing guides.

My skimmer has an opening to the main drain and one to the pump. So during the swim season my poll only circulates from the skimmer. It never pulls from the main drain unless I build a pcv bridge to connect them.

The returns are at the bottom of the pool.

Should I get an external pump and lower my pool water level 6-10 inches? I dont have any plugs for the main drain nor do I have a good way (or any way) to drain the pump and filter without running the pump dry or blowing air through the skimmer and through the pump / sand filter but that seems like a bad idea.

Last year I just treated the water and the pool pump run at a low speed nearly all winter.

set up:

Solar roof heater which I will drain.
Sand filter
Pump (superflow vs 3 speed)
Unknown polaris cleaner which I have never used

 

[Towerhouse]

Here is the skimmer. One hole to the pump and one to the main drain. So default operation never pulls from main drain.

I don't have any plugs or anything to close these holes off. Open to recommendations

 

[Texas Splash]

You're in a great position since your equipment seems to be sheltered. If you normally leave the pool running all winter on low speed, that's what I would continue to do. But you know your weather better than me. I do the same in my area. If you do elect to close completely, then there are some basic things to do. Certainly a DIY project, but you'll need some basic tools like a good Cyclone blower, winterizing plugs, a gizmo for the skimmer, etc. The type of cover you use (if any) and potential waterline tile (if any) also influence your closing options if you go that route.

Certainly leaving open on low speed is the easiest, but if you do close, have you seen our page below?

Closing an In Ground Pool

Winterizing a pool is essential for keeping your in-ground pool protected during cold-weather months. This Pool Repair guide will show you how to do it.

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Towerhouse]

Thanks for writing back! Yes I did read the article. I think I will end up leaving it running again this year at a low speed just to keep things from going awry. The nice thing is that in my area we don't get deep freezes very often.

Draining the pump and filter (the shed in the photo above): How does one do this? Do you blow air through the pump inlet in the skimmer through all of those parts?

Solar: we have a solar system that drains at the lowest part of our property but I don't know if the to and from lines in the pump house fully evacuate that way. I could I guess, blow air through the pump intake in the skimmer, force solar on, and hope that it moves enough water to the exit but I am pretty confident that my solar system as an air release valve at the top of the roof to release excess air in the system. Thoughts?

If I bring my vacuum hose (which plugs into the skimmers pump intake port) into the pool store, they would be able to sell me the appropriate plug?

Bridging the gap: In the skimmer photo I have two holes. One is main drain and ones is the pump intake. I am thinking about building a bridge to connect the two so I can a) fix my circulation issues (skimming only off the top and nothing from the bottom of the pool) for times when people are not in the pool and b) allows me to run the pump for water levels below the skimmer (IE draining via the main drain). Is there a reason I should not do this excluding the obvious don't drain the pool or use that bridge with people in the pool?

Will lowering the water line leave a ring around my pool? I am worried about any staining. Thoughts?

I think those are my primary questions I have right now.

 

[Texas Splash]

Draining the pump and filter (the shed in the photo above): How does one do this?

Very carefully. Ha ha. Others rig-up a drain pan and/or hoses to help direct water flow out of the structure. If you were to close, you'd want to push water with air from the equipment to the pool. Lowering the waterline shouldn't effect your pool surface. Others here close every year. Staining shouldn't be an issue if the pool is chemically correct and a pre-SLAM performed.

 

[Texas Splash]

You know they make floats and products to help people who's skimmer shares water to the pump and drain. Maybe that's something you should look into to "gap that bridge"?

 

[Towerhouse]

I thought there was something like that! That would be so nice! I burned out my pump due to a storm, power outage, and the pump being unable to get prime. That would have saved me!

 

[Towerhouse]

How do I know which skimmer float valve to get? I don't know which brand my skimmer is and there isn't any documentation. I assume they are not universal?

 

[Towerhouse]

I should note that I do not have the original skimmer lid or skimmer flap. Sad times.

I *think* I found one that will fit but it is based on a dead end from another inyopool forum. Unfortunately the original poster never responded to say if it fit! Any input would be incredible.

I think something is missing?

New house to me, the house was made in 1973, so the pool can’t be older than that. I bought a new skimmer, but it just sits on top of these two holes, and doesn’t seal. I looked at a few youtube videos and it seems there should be more housing that the skimmer valvue float thing sits on top of...

www.inyopools.com

CMP Float Valve Assembly with O-Ring, Fits Pentair & Sta-Rite Skimmers - 08650-0079 - INYOPools.com

08650-0079 - VALVE, FLOAT ASSY. WG (08650-0079)

www.inyopools.com