Closing difficulties with cartridge filter and pool level above equipment

The other thing I liked about the Cyclone was that it is purpose built for this so I was not concerned with overloading it. It would also change sounds so I knew when the pipes were clearing.
I also thought I found another use for it, but in case anyone is wondering, no it doesn’t work well for clearing your dryer vent and will blow it apart. Ask me how I know. ?
 
I also thought I found another use for it, but in case anyone is wondering, no it doesn’t work well for clearing your dryer vent and will blow it apart. Ask me how I know. ?

Thanks for the lazy Sunday morning laugh. HD/Lowes sell a dryer vent tool just for that and they work well. And its a tad cheaper than the cyclone.

 
Here are some better pictures of the “snorkel” set up. I let them sit for a week to see if they leaked and if they did, it was such little water that it doesn’t matter. I did pour a bunch of antifreeze in there anyway for good measure. I appreciate all the responses, I’m going to roll this dice this year as we don’t often get extended temps where the pool freezes much and just check them occasionally.




I find it hard to believe that just as you come to a perfect 90° you have a water tight seal. I'm not sure I would chance this after all you did say it may have let some water through. You have a mighty long winter ahead and no idea how much leaks through. Well you may be sorry come spring and there are cracked pipes. As I mentioned fitting wise to come out with a piece of pipe after the thread and use a union in the horizontal position. On the other side of the union you have the 90° so after the thread is absolutely water tight to the utmost in the return with no chance of water seepage you would orient the 90°fitting upwards as you tighten the union. With this configuration you don't stand the chance of under tightening the return fitting and still are in full control the 90°ends up.
 
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Agreed, not all are a perfect 90 and I tested by capping them and using air pressure. One did leak but it was at the vertical threads, not elbow. I was able to tighten it and stop the leak. I did also use Teflon plumber’s tape as well.

The elbows are quite tight so I don’t think there will be an issue. That being said, I’ll probably use those duck valves next year and skip the antifreeze. I can’t think of a reasonable way to get antifreeze in the wall returns without lowering the water (which would then lead to my tanning ledge being completely above the water line and that caused lots of issues last year).
 
You probably can still get the antifreeze in from the same place you put in the air when you're using duck plugs. Also now all that is rigid pipe, do you have clearance to unscrew the whole contraption without it hitting on something.
 
Thanks for the lazy Sunday morning laugh. HD/Lowes sell a dryer vent tool just for that and they work well. And its a tad cheaper than the cyclone.


Thanks, this would come in handy, I've seen this in reviews. I hope it will work with thick and super flexible dryer vent hoses made of dual aluminum foil. I need to clean mine and maybe replace some old parts of it...
 
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