Closing an in ground pool

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waste said:
Closing off the other valves (so as not to waste the antifreeze in them) is a very good idea :goodjob:

You are lucky to be able to do that :!:

I'd just 'reblow' the MD and forget about it for the winter :cool:



If you still are worried about it, either ask more here or just work your way through a 6 - pack until it doesn't bother you :lol:

Hope to see you over the winter, if not, we'll see you next spring :-D
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Good one! Glad I didn't do any drinking during this time-consuming chore...I'd probably have more to deal with than just a MD!

Anyway, yes, I am lucky to have valves on each run. I'll blow the MD again, and dump another gallon or 2 of antifreeze in, and pump it through. Also lucky to have found a farm supply close to home that is selling it for 2.49/gallon!

Already thinking about this procedure next year. I used my consumer-rated Craftsman compressor to do this this year. I WON'T be using it again. Not powerful enough. So, I'm already shopping around for a good Shop-vac. I have one already, however, it doesn't reverse. Just vacuums. I've noticed that the most affordable, highest-rated, consumer-based shop-vacs are about 6.5 HP. I'm assuming this is more than enough to blast through all the lines. I just need something that I don't have to wait on to recover.
 
.....and dump another gallon or 2 of antifreeze in, and pump it through. Also lucky to have found a farm supply close to home that is selling it for 2.49/gallon!

Great info ! Probably others can save as well

Already thinking about this procedure next year. I used my consumer-rated Craftsman compressor to do this this year. I WON'T be using it again. Not powerful enough. So, I'm already shopping around for a good Shop-vac. I have one already, however, it doesn't reverse. Just vacuums. I've noticed that the most affordable, highest-rated, consumer-based shop-vacs are about 6.5 HP. I'm assuming this is more than enough to blast through all the lines. I just need something that I don't have to wait on to recover.[/quote]


Reverse is unneeded I think, hook a hose to the exhaust.
 
I have noticed with the Pool Calculator that water temperature influences the CSI, all other variables staying the same

With my pool chemistry, cooler water temp of 2 degrees centigrade increases acidity by .03, according to Pool Calc

Question: given the above, and given that winter water temp will be in range of 6 to 12 degrees C, should I build this into the pH and TA target measurements at which I leave the pool when I cover?

present measurements
pH 7.7
TA 70
CYA 55
CH 350
Borates 50
water temp 18 degrees C
CSI = -.22

But if water temp = 8 degrees, CSI= -.39

Seems that pool would be "happier" with a TA of 100 or even 110, with cool winter water temps (CSI - -.11 at 8 degrees C and TA of 110)
 
Questions:
Pool store guy mentioned:
1- Once the pump is Off & things are drained as you desire etc, “position the Multiport Valve between any 2 settings”.
Make sense or irrelevant?

2- “Put the Multiport at the Re-circulate setting when you blow out the lines to bypass the DE filter so you aren’t pumping air in the DE can.”
I don’t have a Re-circulate setting on my Multiport; my settings are: Filter & Vacuum to Pool, Filter to Waste , Drain & Vacuum To Waste, Auxiliary Circulation, Winterize, To Remove Handle, Backwash.
My multiport should be on what setting when I blow out the lines?

Thanks
 
jwfrank said:
I have noticed with the Pool Calculator that water temperature influences the CSI, all other variables staying the same

With my pool chemistry, cooler water temp of 2 degrees centigrade increases acidity by .03, according to Pool Calc

Question: given the above, and given that winter water temp will be in range of 6 to 12 degrees C, should I build this into the pH and TA target measurements at which I leave the pool when I cover?
:
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As the water gets colder, the pH will rise, all else equal. So the CSI won't decrease as much as you think as the temperature drops. If I use your starting numbers, then I get a CSI of -0.17 using my spreadsheet and if I only change the temperature down to 8ºC then the CSI drops to -0.32 but as the temperature drops the pH will rise to 7.83 so the CSI will actually only drop to -0.20.

So the general rule is just to close with numbers that seem reasonable and then as the temperature drops the water will adjust automatically and tend to keep the same CSI. Just don't try and lower the pH back down as the temperature drops -- let the water's pH rise a little as noted above. You could certainly raise your TA to 90 ppm if you wanted the CSI closer to 0, but it's not a big deal.

JohnnyB, I hope someone else answers your questions in your post before this one -- I don't know the answers to them myself.

Richard
 
Mr. Goode :mrgreen:

Try the Aux circ. to blow the lines (it sounds like "recirc", given the 'weird' labling of the other lines) :roll:

As long as you can blow all the lines - you'll be fine :cool: [BTW - the multiport 'functions' you post are NOT realistic :( ]

As for the 'in between any 2 settings - that is the correct way to leave the multiport for the winter :)

Have a great winter!! I hope to see you around over the winter, if not, I expect to see you here next spring :goodjob:
 
Hi everyone, I am having trouble blowing out the lines, i cant get anything to come out of them. I am guessing that my vacuum does not blow enough volume.. so i called the pool store and they are going to come out and JUST blow the lines out.. but he said something that i have not read or heard on here... He said the water level should be 16 inches from the normal level to help support the weight on the cover... I have a loop n lock cover.. the company that built the pool did it last year and i really don't remember where the level was this spring when i opened the pool.... so I am a little confused to as where to have the water level... any help with this would be a great help.....
thanks
 
There are a couple different ways to blow the lines, depending on where you want to lower your water level to. You can leave the pool full and plug the return lines while they are 'bubbling' - this can get the person plugging the lines VERY wet :x A lot of folks, who don't have 'ground water' issues, drop the pool level to below the returns and have a much drier experience plugging them :) (skimmers, main drains and other wall suction ports can be done with the water up, it just takes a little more - I'll tell you if you need, but the info is on the site :wink: )

You certainly want to keep the cover's warranty in tact, most returns are ~ 14.5" down on the wall and the coping is usually 2" so you'd be safe draining to the bottom of the returns without violating the cover's requirement :cool:

If you have more questions, we're here to answer :-D
 

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kenmccall said:
I am not going to close my pool and I know I should run my pump when it nears freezing temps. Should I also run my Booster Pump?
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In Sacramento (similar to or slightly warmer winter temperatures than in central Georgia), the booster pump & pool cleaner operate when freeze protection mode kicks in at 38 F or so. On my system it doesn't have to be set up this way; in fact, when the temps are low for days at a time I try to remember turn it off (to save electricity and reduce the noise from having 2 pumps running at 3 AM.) In my area, it's usually the overnight lows that trigger this. Day time temps rarely do. I have wondered whether freeze protection is really necessary -- in Sacramento or Macon.
 
Waste:
"[BTW - the multiport 'functions' you post are NOT realistic"

Not sure what you mean, they are as stated.
Guess it doesn't matter since I know what setting to blow out the line & I have to replace my MPV next spring.

Thanks for all the help this season.
 
I live in Arkansas and we do get below freezing but not for a long period of time. I plan to cover the pool and turn on the pump when it gets close to freezing. My question is what do I need to add before I put the cover on. As of now, the chemicals are where they need to be. Thank you so much for all your help.
 
farmerselectric said:
I live in Arkansas and we do get below freezing but not for a long period of time. I plan to cover the pool and turn on the pump when it gets close to freezing. My question is what do I need to add before I put the cover on. As of now, the chemicals are where they need to be. Thank you so much for all your help.
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Is this an above ground or in-ground pool? Are you planning to test/treat the water after you cover it?

I would think--if this is just a partial close and you're able to circulate and lift the cover off enough to fetch a pool water sample--that you don't have to add anything. Just test the water periodically and add chlorine and/or acid as needed. If you don't plan to test or treat, best to bring chlorine up to shock level (and, if you've had problems with spring algae blooms during previous seasons, you could add some Polyquat 60 algaecide.)
 
X-PertPool said:
here are some pictures of the ways we do things.
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ok, ive looked at this thing 10 times now, and im clueless as to what the heck it is... please explain lol

How do you test a maindrain with it??? Are you refering to a maindrain thats plumbed into a skimmer? :hammer:

I said the H word, not the F one... just so everyone knows..no it wasnt HECK ;)
 
How do I use the "winterize" setting on my 7-way multiport valve, and we have a high water table and get lots of rain and snow, so draining below the return line just isn't feasable. I'm assuming I can just blow out the lines and plug them while bubbling, and add some anti-freeze. Also do I blow out the lines from the skimmers, with everything (pump and filter) still connected, and what setting should the multiport be on. Does the air blow through the sand in the sand filter or bypass it. As you can see I'm slightly confused. Thanks much in advance.
 
Hi everyone,
I am new to a pool, and its about time to close it in North Jersey. I have been searching for a way to do this myself by blowing out the water in all the lines .. but my pool is not as simple as what I may be able to do.
1) It has a DE with a push pull valve. I have no choise but blowing air through the filter? and this will be ok?
2) I have Jandy Valve actuators over Jandy Valves, how do I manually switch the values?
3) There is a Caretaker 5 zoon system, how do I clear the water in it by blowing air?

Thanks a lot,
Stevool.
 

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