Clear Pool with High Nitrates & high Chlorine consumption
- Thread starter noalchidester
- Start date
Woke up this morning before the sunrise and tested.
FC= 12
CC=1
My FC matches my SLAM FC target - don't add any LC for now. Right?
FC= 12
CC=1
My FC matches my SLAM FC target - don't add any LC for now. Right?
- May 3, 2014
- 58,391
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Correct. Maintain the 12 ppm FC today. Sounds like you may have a short SLAM on your hands.
How does the water look?
As long as the fc is at 40% of the CYA, you're good.
What is the current CYA?
What does the water look like?
What is the current CYA?
What does the water look like?
- May 3, 2014
- 58,391
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Raise your FC to SLAM Level for CYA of 40 -- that is 16 ppm FC. Maintain that today and do a OCLT tonight at that FC level.
Will do! Thanks again for all your help. I'm so grateful I found this forum. I was about to spend $1500 bringing in 33K gallons of water because 2 different pool stores couldn't figure out my "nitrate problem". I'm still doing a slam but my pool has never looked better. Just became a Bronze supporter. Still loving you! 
If anyone tells you that nitrates somehow react with chlorine, ask them how.
Nitrogen has two electron shells. One shell has two electrons and the outer “Valence” shell can have up to 8 electrons. The nitrogen atom has 7 protons. So, the oxidation state is determined by how many total electrons there are.
The atom only gains or loses electrons from the outer shell. If the outer shell is full with 8 electrons, the oxidation state is -8 + -2 + 7 = -3. This is the case with ammonia.
If the outer shell is empty, the oxidation state is 0 + -2 + 7 = +5. In nitrate, the outer shell is empty and there are no electrons for chlorine to take. So, chlorine cannot react with nitrate.
In addition, even if chlorine could react with nitrate (which it can’t), the nitrate would eventually get depleted. This is what happens with ammonia where the chlorine does react with the ammonia, but the ammonia gets depleted by the reaction and it eventually goes to zero.
Nitrates and phosphates can make the water more reactive to algae. So, you have to be vigilant about maintaining the chlorine at the proper level at all time. As long as you do this, you should be fine.
If you really want TFP spend that $1500 on a SWG, follow this site religiously, and you'll spend less than $200 a year on chemicals.
Just had set a set back. Readings at 9:45 AM test were FC = 12.5 CC = 1
Just did a 2:00 PM test. Readings were FC = 1 CC = 0
Just added another 3 gallons, 2 quarts of LC
Its very hot in the 90's and Sunny. Thoughts?
Just did a 2:00 PM test. Readings were FC = 1 CC = 0
Just added another 3 gallons, 2 quarts of LC
Its very hot in the 90's and Sunny. Thoughts?
- May 3, 2014
- 58,391
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Thanks Marty. Should I be testing hourly or every 2 hours or some other time frame when sunny?
- May 3, 2014
- 58,391
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
3 or 4 times per day.
That was a significant drop. Did you brush, or clean out something, like a light niche?
That was a significant drop. Did you brush, or clean out something, like a light niche?
I brushed and vacuumed around 10:30 AM. I also brushed the raised hot tub where this was noticeably more dust/dirt than I saw in the pool.
Really sorry to keep bugging everyone. Seem to be stuck on my SLAM. Didn't loose any FC overnight from my lat add at 7:30 PM (added LC 1 Gal, 1 Cup). This morning at 6:00 AM results were:
FC = 14 CC = .5
2nd test today: 10:15 AM
FC = 8 CC = .5 maybe 1
Lost 6 PPM in 4 hours. Similar to yesterday where I went from 12 to 1 in about 6 hours.
So far in total I've added about 13 gallons of LC. Pool is clear and sparkling. CYA at 40. Getting low on LC. Really hot today around 96. Wondering how much more I might need and if I'm missing something. Thanks for any words or wisdom out there.
FC = 14 CC = .5
2nd test today: 10:15 AM
FC = 8 CC = .5 maybe 1
Lost 6 PPM in 4 hours. Similar to yesterday where I went from 12 to 1 in about 6 hours.
So far in total I've added about 13 gallons of LC. Pool is clear and sparkling. CYA at 40. Getting low on LC. Really hot today around 96. Wondering how much more I might need and if I'm missing something. Thanks for any words or wisdom out there.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,391
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
So you have passed the OCLT, CC is passed, and clear water. No debris in the pool (dead algae)?
I guess I did. I wasn't even thinking about it due to how much FC I lost yesterday. I'm not entirely confident the CC as .5 but I think so. Worst case it was 1. The pool looks really clean no debris except a couple of little pockets of dirt that are in my elevated hot tub that I cant easily get to.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,391
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
It seems to me you are passing all three criteria for a successful SLAM.
Double check your CYA level. The rapid FC loss during the day implies a low CYA.
Double check your CYA level. The rapid FC loss during the day implies a low CYA.
Thanks Marty, You're right. I tested it outside in increments of 10 and I'm at 30 not 40. I'll need to adjust my LC slam amounts. Should I add conditioner to get to 40 or higher? Thanks again for all your time and attention!
- Feb 6, 2015
- 6,100
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Just to verify... last night, about 30 minutes after your last addition at 7:30pm, what was your FC test reading?