Clear green

JERILYN

Gold Supporter
Silver Supporter
Mar 1, 2019
8
Decatur, GA
Pool Size
10000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Been a faithful follower of Troublefree since 2017 and use 10% liquid chlorine. Super pool performance, can’t complain.

In August 2021 replaced pump and heater (noted in sig). A few months later I mistakenly overdosed the chlorine, not paying attention, and in a few hours the pool water turned green (clear). Consulted the forum and learned it likely was the OD of bleach interaction with the copper? from the heater. A few days later, back to beautiful blue. Was super careful after that.
Been a faithful follower of TFP since 2017 and use 10% liquid chlorine. Super pool performance, can’t complain.

In August 2021 replaced pump and heater (noted in sig). A few months later I mistakenly overdosed the chlorine, not paying attention, and in a few hours the pool water turned green (clear). Consulted the forum and learned it likely was the OD of bleach interaction with the copper? from the heater. A few days later, back to beautiful blue. Was super careful after that.

Except for a week ago, again overdosed on the bleach, water turned green. Figured I’d wait it out again. Rained a lot for several days here. Noticed water was still green. Did OCLT. No loss.
Not sure if it matters but I have not operated the heater since September for the hot tub. I do not close the pool/spa for the winter.

So now wondering what to do. Can anyone assist please?

FC 4.0
CC 0
PH - 7.5
CH 275
TA - 75
CYA - 30
 
Welcome to TFP! :wave: Typically a high FC level by itself isn't enough to cause a negative interaction with the heater (if it has a copper element). But you replaced it last year so we have to assume the previous heater did have a failed copper element right? If so, that copper is still in the water unless you replaced it. Was a large water exchange ever conducted?
 
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Thank you! The original heater (2004) wouldn’t work with the new Jandy pump (as far as automation and me being lazy is concerned) and the old heater was probably on its last legs anyway. I did not do any empty and fill, just normal evaporation, city water and rain replacement. I don’t understand why everything was cool for 1.5 years and now 7 days of green clear. I expected it to mellow and go blue.
 
Be sure you are not dealing with iron. Put some paper towels in the skimmer basket and run the pump. See if they turn brown.
 
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Nope not on a well. Installed this pool in 2004 and never had this iron issue until now. The last time I added city water was after some dry days in September.
 
Happy New Year to all! And to close the loop on this here is an update: upon the suggestion that perhaps iron was the cause of my clear green water I began by letting the chlorine levels drop to zero. A few days later pool water was back to beautiful. I decided to resume my normal program about a week ago and still all good. I’m not sure exactly what happened on the front or back end, but I’m gonna roll with it.
Thank you to all who offered expert opinions and suggestions. I truly appreciate the help and I’ll update again as necessary.
 
Happy New Year to all! And to close the loop on this here is an update: upon the suggestion that perhaps iron was the cause of my clear green water I began by letting the chlorine levels drop to zero. A few days later pool water was back to beautiful. I decided to resume my normal program about a week ago and still all good. I’m not sure exactly what happened on the front or back end, but I’m gonna roll with it.
Thank you to all who offered expert opinions and suggestions. I truly appreciate the help and I’ll update again as necessary.
Keeping your fc below minimum for your cya to avoid iron showing itself is not a good plan, it leaves you susceptible to algae & nasties proliferating which will then mean you will need to do the SLAM Process & have to deal with the iron anyway. Better to maintain adequate fc levels that are in target 🎯 range FC/CYA Levels & deal with removing the iron in the ways mentioned here
👇
 
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