Clarity problems. 2 weeks

[dukeswim]

Clarity problems, going on 2weeks. Already added chems including clarifier and stabilizer and enzymes.

test results:
Chlorine:
Free 1, total 5, combined 4
pH 8.0
Acid demand was 2 drops
Total Alkalinity 190
Calcium hardness now 310
Cyanuric acid—it was barely cloudy, off the scale I’d say maybe 10-15.

Taylor Watergram wheel says my saturation is .8 to .9
Water still really cloudy probably 2.5’ clarity. We added more clarifier today in just trying to make a difference.
Now have vacuum hose posted at bottom of pool as someone recommended rigging a “bootleg drain”
TIA for y’all’s help.

 

[mknauss]

Please post a complete set of test results (including CYA)

You likely need to follow the SLAM Process

 

[dukeswim]

Thank you. Editing my post with full numbers to eliminate confusion.

 

[Deb04]

Your chlorine is too low to fight the algae in your pool, which is the cause of your cloudiness. You need to SLAM.

How long ago did you add stabilizer and how did you add it?

 

[dukeswim]

Your chlorine is too low to fight the algae in your pool, which is the cause of your cloudiness. You need to SLAM.

How long ago did you add stabilizer and how did you add it?

Added stabilizer 3 days ago, 1.5 lbs worth, all I had at the moment. Starting slam tonight.

Asking opinions: should I EXHANGE WATER before adding SLAM chems?

 

[PoolStored]

Asking opinions: should I EXHANGE WATER before adding SLAM chems?

I see no need to exchange water. What makes you ask?

 

[dukeswim]

I see no need to exchange water. What makes you ask?

someone on another forum (Reddit) mentioned SLAMing and that I'd probably have to exchange water first. my hypothesis was no since clarity has improved before I slammed, just wanted to check. testing levels now to dial in my chem input.
Thank you @PoolStored

 

[PoolStored]

You need to stick with TFP, or stick with Reddit. Don't mix the two.

The only reason to drain the pool is when CYA, CH or Salt is too high.

Print out the SLAM process, read it three time, keep it with you and follow it to a T. Link-->SLAM Process

 

[dukeswim]

You need to stick with TFP, or stick with Reddit. Don't mix the two.

The only reason to drain the pool is when CYA, CH or Salt is too high.

Print out the SLAM process, read it three time, keep it with you and follow it to a T. Link-->SLAM Process

Thanks it's true I need to spend less time on Reddit...

 

[dukeswim]

Alright so next question with the SLAM:
my pH is still way too high, 8.0.
So I absolutely need to lower the pH before adding chlorine, correct?
And to do that I can use something like Clorox pH down? or should it be more like muriatic acid?

 

[PoolStored]

So I absolutely need to lower the pH before adding chlorine, correct?

Yes. Do it in .4 increments/steps. Add muriatic and test 30 minutes later with pump on. Pour slowly over a return and brush it around a bit. Do you have pool math?

Confirm you have the 2006C test kit. You signature says on order. Don't do anything if you don't have your test kit yet.

Do no use clorox pH down. Contains sulfates. No Bueno for El Poolo. Use Muriatic acid.

 

[dukeswim]

Thanks
Yes I have pool math, have been using the old school page on laptop because easier to see everything together.
2005C is what I got. It’s helped me see levels but I do understand FAS-DPD is better plus it would be good to have the magnetic stirrer

Boo on the muriatic acid. I’ll continue to clean tonight and get muriatic tomorrow first thing. TY

 

[PoolStored]

You cannot SLAM without the FAS-DPD. You can get the add-on here: SLAM Option

The stirrer is a game changer if you can swing it.

 

[dukeswim]

Mmm, ok please help me understand what FAS-DPD will tell me that I can’t do SLAM without?
The parameters I read in the
SLAM Process article —pH, FC, CC and CYA—are covered by the 2005C. Truly trying to learn here.

 

[PoolStored]

2005 only has the DPD, which really only tells you you have chlorine. The 2006C has the FAS-DPD has a powder you add, then drops to measure FC.

Go look at your test kit...confirm you have the 2005C and not the 2006C. I think you have the two confused.

 

[Deb04]

The “age” of the water is not relevant. The chemicals in the water, measured by your K2006c or TF kit are what matters.

 

[dukeswim]

Thank you

 

[dukeswim]

Update: we could see, faintly, the design on the pool bottom in the 3’ today. Progress.

 

[dukeswim]

About an hour into
SLAM Process. Let’s go!

 

[rweiler994]

About an hour into
SLAM Process. Let’s go!

View attachment 576917

Trust the process and complete it, I dumped my winter cover goo partly in my pool this year...Instantly from TFP clear to soupy green. Back to TFP clear in about 4 days. Would have been faster if I didn't have to work.