Circupool RJ 45 plus salt cell; lo salt/check cell light

[dcjbhm]

I’ve had an issue for about two weeks with my “lo salt/check cell light” being on. I had the RJ30 plus. Tried cleaning it a few times per user guide, didn’t get rid of the lights after restarting. Figured my cell went bad, so I bought a new one properly sized for my pool (RJ45 plus). Lights are still coming on when pump auto shuts off and stays off for awhile. The lights don’t go away unless I power the control module off and then back on. As far as I can tell, the cell is definitely still making chlorine.
I have followed the instructions on the help guide (https://www.circupool.com/assets/doc/CircuPool-RJ-Troubleshooting-Guide.pdf). Since this most recent cell is brand new it doesn’t need to be cleaned but I did try inverting it, which didn’t fix the issue either. I am honestly stumped.
Anyone have experience with this that might offer some guidance?

 

[Hootz]

If you only replaced the cell and not the controller there is a setting to designate what type of cell is connected to the controller. Did you change the cell designation?

 

[dcjbhm]

If you only replaced the cell and not the controller there is a setting to designate what type of cell is connected to the controller. Did you change the cell designation?

Yes, I sure did.

 

[proavia]

How are you testing your salt content?
What is your present salt reading?
What is tbe SWG reporting as your salt content?

 

[wprileyjr3]

On the controller hit the salinity button and see what reports for average salinity then check and see what salinity it reports with the menu button when it is actually generating. Curious to see if there is a difference. If the average is being updated or it is still using the average from the old cell.

 

[setsailsoon]

Sounds like low salt to me. With all the rain we've had I was surprised how low my salt got in less than 2 months. Got exactly the same behavior from my RJ 30+. Added salt lights went out and it's making away!

Also, Allen reminded me check CYA. It goes out with the salt!

Chris

 

[setsailsoon]

My salt reading is always a couple hundred ppm low on the controller when salt level is 3500 ppm. Seems to match pretty well below 3000 when compared to the K-1766 reading.

 

[dcjbhm]

How are you testing your salt content?
What is your present salt reading?
What is tbe SWG reporting as your salt content?

I am using the readings from the control panel. Average ppm is 3600, and it ranges from 1500-4000 when I use the other (menu) button to check salinity. I actually just added four bags of salt yesterday in case it was a salinity issue. Lights are still coming on.

 

[setsailsoon]

dc,
Salt readings from all salt cells are notoriously inaccurate. We strongly recommend you monitor salt with a Taylor k-1766 salt test. It's one of the easiest and repeatable drop tests I've ever used and matches up perfectly with Pool Math projections. You really need this to avoid high and low salt levels.

I hope this helps.

Chris

 

[markayash]

Mine was happy until the water got warmer and I got a low salt..Restested my water and was at 2600..Added 4 bags and all happy again.
I have the Edge and it was still working just complaining of low salt.
I second get the taylor 1766 and test

 

[wprileyjr3]

Are the large swings in salinity happening when it starts up or through the entire run. I test with Taylor K-1766 and get 3800 ppm. My RJ45+ when it first starts generating reads 4200-4300 then after a few minutes of running settles down to 3800-3900 on the menu with my average at 3700-3900. I believe the lo salt comes on at 3000 ppm and high salt at 4500 ppm with recommended range 3000-4000 ppm.

 

[setsailsoon]

A Circupool TS guy told me they know the cell reading can be +/- 500 ppm so they set the stop at 2800. Light comes on at about 3000 on mine as well and cell maintenance warning comes on around 2800 and stops producing. All the numbers I'm referencing are based on the cell reading.