Side discussions are fine, I think the takeaways for me so far are
1) Ozone does not make a difference in FC level requirements no matter what the Ozone manufacturers claim.
2) Ozone may help with water bodies that have high bio residuals that can be reduced via oxidation but it does not help with keeping algae at bay, one of the biggest risks and needs for residential pools.
3) While Ozone might help reduce bio residuals it also oxidizes FC therefore what you might gain in reduced chlorine consumption by bio materials you might lose in increased chlorine consumption by Ozone itself.
4) Based on my actual test FC reducing effect of Ozone is not as large as it is generally claimed so running Ozone might not be as bad for chlorine as some might claim.
And to answer Leebo's questions,
a) I'm using Great Value 6% bleach for now as I figured that is the cheapest source but it is actually more expensive than the 50 lbs tub of cal-hypo 70% from Leslie's per PPM. I need to find a cheaper source. I need to use liquid chlorine as I don't want to increase my CH too much, it's at 200 right now. Funny story is that my builder wrote down I had calcium at 300 and gave me a Pentair test kit that measured total hardness, not calcium hardness. My Calcium Hardness was 120 when I measured it with my Taylor kit. Big difference! But it seems like their techs don't even know the difference between TH and CH and almost lulled me into thinking I had 300 CH.
b) my CYA is 30 and I'm gradually raising it to 40 via adding another 5lbs of trichlor pucks via the builder installed chlorinator. Once I hit 40, I'm planning to stop and maintain 3.0-4.0 PPM FC from then on.
This morning I measured 5.0 FC after running the stenner and only adding chlorine via it yesterday for the first time. I'll measure FC again tomorrow morning and see if it holds at 5.0, climbs or drops. I figure the closer I can get it to 3.0 as my minimum (the minimum I should reach in the evening after a full day of full sun) the better off I am and the most chlorine I can save as the chlorine loss is dependent on FC values. The lower the FC the lower the loss as it is a percentage of FC not a fixed value.
I'm guessing the pool chemistry could take or leave the Ozone and it probably does very little in terms of keeping my pool clean.
1) Ozone does not make a difference in FC level requirements no matter what the Ozone manufacturers claim.
2) Ozone may help with water bodies that have high bio residuals that can be reduced via oxidation but it does not help with keeping algae at bay, one of the biggest risks and needs for residential pools.
3) While Ozone might help reduce bio residuals it also oxidizes FC therefore what you might gain in reduced chlorine consumption by bio materials you might lose in increased chlorine consumption by Ozone itself.
4) Based on my actual test FC reducing effect of Ozone is not as large as it is generally claimed so running Ozone might not be as bad for chlorine as some might claim.
And to answer Leebo's questions,
a) I'm using Great Value 6% bleach for now as I figured that is the cheapest source but it is actually more expensive than the 50 lbs tub of cal-hypo 70% from Leslie's per PPM. I need to find a cheaper source. I need to use liquid chlorine as I don't want to increase my CH too much, it's at 200 right now. Funny story is that my builder wrote down I had calcium at 300 and gave me a Pentair test kit that measured total hardness, not calcium hardness. My Calcium Hardness was 120 when I measured it with my Taylor kit. Big difference! But it seems like their techs don't even know the difference between TH and CH and almost lulled me into thinking I had 300 CH.
b) my CYA is 30 and I'm gradually raising it to 40 via adding another 5lbs of trichlor pucks via the builder installed chlorinator. Once I hit 40, I'm planning to stop and maintain 3.0-4.0 PPM FC from then on.
This morning I measured 5.0 FC after running the stenner and only adding chlorine via it yesterday for the first time. I'll measure FC again tomorrow morning and see if it holds at 5.0, climbs or drops. I figure the closer I can get it to 3.0 as my minimum (the minimum I should reach in the evening after a full day of full sun) the better off I am and the most chlorine I can save as the chlorine loss is dependent on FC values. The lower the FC the lower the loss as it is a percentage of FC not a fixed value.
I'm guessing the pool chemistry could take or leave the Ozone and it probably does very little in terms of keeping my pool clean.
