Chlorine/PH level Sanity Check for New Pool

[bjxds]

Our pool has been in for about 3 months. I have been trying to maintain the recommended levels. Below are the average the norms I have been maintaining.
FC 7-8 CYA 50
PH 7.6-7-8
TA 70

1. I checked the FC level yesterday and it was 12..... WTF when I checked the SWG, apparently the pool contractors set it to Super Chlorinate with out me knowing when they were checking on things the other day. They think that should be done every 2 weeks. Story for another day, but I have not been doing that.

I turned the SWG off and checked this am. FC is 8. I want to verify FC 8 is good with CYA 50 ?
After high levels of FC, shocking pool or Super Chlorinate. What are the procedures to bring FC back to noral/safe levels?
How long does it take for FC levels to return to normal?

2. Recently after heavy rain and much cooler weather my PH is rising to 8.0 and I need to add MA almost every 2-days to bring it to 7.6. Could the rain and cool weather cause this, is it normal?

Previously my TA was about 50-60 with PH being stable at 7.6-7.8. I raised the TA to 70-80 before the rains and cooler weather. Should I try to lower the TA back down to 50?

Any and all reccomendations are appreciated.

 

[drsipe]

These are the normal levels for a fiberglass pool.




This should help you to understand alkalinity:

TA – Total Alkalinity​

Total alkalinity indicates the water’s ability to buffer pH changes. Buffering means you need to use a larger quantity of a chemical to change the pH. At low TA levels, the pH tends to swing around wildly. At high TA levels, the pH tends to drift up.

You can raise TA with baking soda. It is often best to make large TA adjustments in small steps, testing the water after each one, as adding large quantities of baking soda can raise the pH too high. If you need to lower your TA level, see How To Lower Total Alkalinity.

Your chlorine level related to CYA levels are on this chart, you are safe to swim in water up to the SLAM level as long as you can see the bottom of the pool.




At TFP, we maintain Free chlorine levels in the upper "target range", vacuuming the pool and brushing the pool walls weekly. If you do this and maintain the chlorine level well above the "minimum" chlorine level, you do not need to shock or super chlorinate. Since I switched to the TFP method, I have not shocked my pool in four years, and I've never had an algae bloom.

 

[Pauls234]

On your FC levels, with cya of 50, 8 is about perfect, meaning if anytime throughout the day you test around 8, then no need to adjust anything. Over these next few weeks your FC may start to rise as there will be less loss to UV. When you start seeing 9 or 10 FC then you can reduce the swg power some.

It is safe to swim up to SLAM, so 20ppm with cya of 50 for you.

My ph never moves so don't have anything to offer other than the impact of rain is usually marginal to none across all measurements

 

[pjt]

Previously my TA was about 50-60 with PH being stable at 7.6-7.8. I raised the TA to 70-80

You were at TA/pH equilibrium, which is great. Why did you disturb that by adding baking soda?

Under normal circumstances, a non-trichlor pool should never need baking soda. TA of 50 is perfectly fine.

Should I try to lower the TA back down to 50?

You don't need to make a dedicated effort to adjust TA. Just manage the pH with MA and let the TA settle where it's happy.

Do you have a SpeedStir?

For the TA test, are you continuing to add drops until there's no additional color change?

 

[bjxds]

You were at TA/pH equilibrium, which is great. Why did you disturb that by adding baking soda?

Under normal circumstances, a non-trichlor pool should never need baking soda. TA of 50 is perfectly fine.


You don't need to make a dedicated effort to adjust TA. Just manage the pH with MA and let the TA settle where it's happy.

Do you have a SpeedStir?

For the TA test, are you continuing to add drops until there's no additional color change?

The reason I raised the TA was to get to the middle of the recommended ideal range 60-80.
I don’t have/know what speedster is??

For my TA test The sample is green and I add reagent until it turns red. # of drops x100

 

[bjxds]

On your FC levels, with cya of 50, 8 is about perfect, meaning if anytime throughout the day you test around 8, then no need to adjust anything. Over these next few weeks your FC may start to rise as there will be less loss to UV. When you start seeing 9 or 10 FC then you can reduce the swg power some.

It is safe to swim up to SLAM, so 20ppm with cya of 50 for you.

My ph never moves so don't have anything to offer other than the impact of rain is usually marginal to none across all measurements

Thanks it’s good to know max safe level for swimming is just below slam level

 

[pjt]

The reason I raised the TA was to get to the middle of the recommended ideal range 60-80.

That's unnecessary and often counterproductive. TA of 50 is perfectly fine. Resist the urge to chase a perfect number.

By adding baking soda, you've increased TA, which will result in pH rise, which will require MA, which will lower TA. It's a baking soda/MA seesaw that you don't want to get on.

PH TA Relationship - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Managing pH and Total Alkalinity - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

TA - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

I don’t have/know what speedster is??

The SpeedStir is a stirring device that makes testing much easier, faster, and enjoyable.

Taylor SpeedStir

tftestkits.net

Amazon.com

For my TA test The sample is green and I add reagent until it turns red.

After the initial color change, keep adding drops until there's no further color change. When I test TA, it typically takes another 2-3 drops after the initial color change before the test is complete.