See theory 2 - jacks magic was added. But that was over 2 mo the ago.
Chlorine Makes Pool Cloudy Temporarily
- Thread starter drobbva
- Start date
- May 27, 2021
- 1,290
- Pool Size
- 17000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
- Jul 17, 2019
- 4,070
- Pool Size
- 13000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
You are just interpreting the target ranges differently.
The guidelines are for where your chlorine should be most of the day. So if you dose to 7ppm that allows your pool to drift down into the target range and spend most of the day in the target range.
You are interpreting the guidelines as where you need to dose your FC. So as it drifts down its already at the bottom of the target range, headed for the minimum. You probably are above the minimum most days, but you give yourself very little insurance for things like a heavy bather load, windy day blowing debris in your pool, bird poop, etc. Make sense?
I understand what you are saying but I have been dosing my pool in this manner for years with no issues. And I do adjust the dosing when we have more people in the pool, adverse weather, etc….
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That doesn't mean it can't ever be a problem.
Sweet. So we have time to address anything else while you continue not get algae. Knowing you're not on the verge of a swamp is HUGE here. Thanks.
Maybe there were polymers in the sequesterant or in any algecides used for the treatment (if they used them). Just like foaming from splashless bleach (etc), the answer is more chlorine. A SLAM should get anything that's left instead of little bits at a time.
No algaecides used. Just Jacks sequesterant.That doesn't mean it can't ever be a problem.
Sweet. So we have time to address anything else while you continue not get algae. Knowing you're not on the verge of a swamp is HUGE here. Thanks.
Maybe there were polymers in the sequesterant or in any algecides used for the treatment (if they used them). Just like foaming from splashless bleach (etc), the answer is more chlorine. A SLAM should get anything that's left instead of little bits at a time.
So long as you're using additive free liquid chlorine, no scents, splashless, chloromax technologies, etc...... it's likely a polymer that was added is reacting to the chlorine and more chlorine is the answer. I'd prefer sooner than later if it was my pool, but so long as your levels remain good, you can wait it out without harm.
I'd say even with a good OCLT you'd continue to slam until the reaction in the water stops.
Sorry, if I understand correctly though Jack's Blue (went back to check records last night and it was the Blue) does not have polymers, correct? There were no products added other than:
Pool company
1. BioGuard chlorine sticks at startup
2. BioGuard BalancePak 100 (aka Sodium Hydrogen Carbonate) - this is where they brought the TA up to 140 (their testing showed 120 but I was consistently testing at 140)
3. "Calcium flakes" (I don't have the brand but presume it was BioGuard given that is the brand relationship they have) - they added too much too fast and originally had cloudy water for a week
4. 12.5% liquid chlorine
5. 31.45% muriatic acid
Me
1. 10% liquid chlorine (Pool Essentials)
2. Natural Chemistry liquid conditioner (added enough to get CYA up to 20)
3. Leslie's trichlor tablets (until CYA up to 30 leading up to and while away on vacation)
4. 31.45% muriatic acid
So all this I guess brings me back to Theory 2 - and someone there are still high levels of Jack's Blue in the water and that could be the contributer. Is it possible it is still in the water after over 2 months and following multiple vacuum and at least 1/2 dozen backwashes? Even if it is still there, will it eventually flush out on its own? Seems crazy to spend money on chlorine to SLAM to remove it if my only issue is temporarily cloudy water while the chlorine dissapates and mixes in the water.
Assuming Jack's Blue does NOT have polymers, then it seems like the other theory being presented here is that the pool company added a polymer product without telling me, which I find highly unlikely as the service guys were diligent in documenting what they put in, how much and when.
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- May 27, 2021
- 1,290
- Pool Size
- 17000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
“NOTE: Clouding may occur if sequestering agent level exceeds 20 ppm or if cyanuric acid and/or TDS are not within recommended limits, or if pool is overdosed with liquid chlorine”
It's because at 30ppm cya, while you are correct and are within the guidelines, there could be spots around your pool dropping lower than 2ppm chlorine when the pump is off because you are getting close to the minimum.Team - let me clarify. I follow these guidelines
CYA Chlorine Relationship - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
For my CYA level min is 2ppm and target is 4-6ppm. I test nightly BEFORE adding chlorine. I have NEVER been below 2.5 and am typically at 3.5ppm. I then add 10% liquid chlorine to target 5ppm. It seems like several are suggesting to put more chlorine in than the guidelines of this forum. That’s fine if that is the answer, but it doesn’t make sense to me in the 8+ years I’ve been following this forum and methods.
Regardless, I’m doing OCLT tonight an will report back tomorrow.
Tonight’s result AFTER adding chlorine is 6ppm. Will test again tomorrow morning before adding muriatic acid (Ph tonight is 7.8).
The rule is that you should stay within your target and try to avoid getting to your minimum.
Without an algae battle going on, you'll only see a slight extra loss to UV from the higher FC level. You won't be blowing though chlorine like all the typical SLAMs you see.
Up to you if you want it over with, or to wait it out.
With the early summer heat we have been having and being hellbent on maintaining water chemistry with new plaster, I have been running the pump 24x7 for the past 4 weeks.
Having never been through new plaster before I do not know. I will say at the beginning when I was brushing daily I could see the dust. Now that I am on a weekly brushing schedule I really am not seeing the dust I saw at the beginning. Also, my CH has been pretty stable moving from 200ppm +1 month after plaster to 225ppm +2 months after plaster and it has stayed there the last 4 weeks.
I am curious to explore this thought more. When people are in the water or when the Polaris comes on, the water almost seems carbonated (eg particles to almost the point of bubbles). Is this plaster dust? I guess I would expect my CH to increase if the plaster was giving off dust, but again I have never been through this before so all new to me.
- May 27, 2021
- 1,290
- Pool Size
- 17000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
I believe what you are seeing is isolated clouding due to the jacks application. In the areas that you are applying chlorine, the water is highly chlorinated or in their words “overdosed with liquid chlorine” thus causing the clouding. If plaster dust was forming it wouldn’t be isolated to:
How long does it take for the Jack’s to “run out”? I would have thought it would be essentially “gone” by now. Or is this something that never really goes away?
- May 27, 2021
- 1,290
- Pool Size
- 17000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
It will go away, but jacks is ambiguous about how long it lasts and it would also depend on the dosage that was applied. Since you’re unsure of the dose as the PB applied it, your guess is as good as mine.