Chlorine made pool water turn brown

[duraleigh]

Not to be a wet blanket but if your fill is from the well, you will have more iron in your pool pretty soon.

Filling from an iron-laden well is a hard problem to overcome completely.

 

[TraceingPaper]

Still running the filter 24/7 for 3 days now. Little change, still changing out the hand towels, (3 at a time, folded and stacked in the skimmer) I have a FT job so it's only getting done once in the am and then 10hrs later until bedtime. So I am changing the towels about 5-6x day and back washing in the am before and pm after work . I think there is too much suction from the pump it shreds the paper towels. Pool still looks like coffee.

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Not to be a wet blanket but if your fill is from the well, you will have more iron in your pool pretty soon.

Filling from an iron-laden well is a hard problem to overcome completely.

For any future fills or top offs we are planning on doing the water filter trick. Ugh what a headache this all is. Next year we are thinking of draining and then it'll be worth the $900 some for water hauled in, after the source is tested that is.

Ok, you can stuff polyfill pillow stuffing in all of your filters to help capture more iron. The more your run the filters the faster it will clear up.

Here's a couple of threads on it
Iron Removal
A Tale of Two Filters... and Ugly, Rusty Water.

The poly fill doesn't seem to be catching anything. The socks are red. Let the intex pump rest for the night, it was getting pretty hot. Still running the sand filter.

 

[max2k]

Could you please post a picture of the pool? Preferably looking over stairs during day light hours. If you take the same picture in the same lighting conditions you could compare and see if you're making progress. From my reading on the subject it seems there's no easy way to remove iron out of the water. You can temporary dissolve it creating impression it disappeared but in reality it will remain and eventually fall out again. So from this point of view brown water is better as it allows iron to be actually removed by filtering it out.

What test kit are you using? I read the water was 'professionally tested' but if you had your own test kit it would help a lot in the long run.

 

[TraceingPaper]

I currently have the hth 6way test kit (TC, bromine, pH, TA, tot hardness, CYA). I did order the taylor 2006. How do I post a picture on here? I'm on my phone.

 

[max2k]

I currently have the hth 6way test kit (TC, bromine, pH, TA, tot hardness, CYA). I did order the taylor 2006. How do I post a picture on here? I'm on my phone.

try this link for pics: http://www.troublefreepool.com/faq.php?faq=vb3_board_usage#faq_posting_photos

 

[TraceingPaper]

Day 1: After testing pH and TA were perfect, water slightly green, no algae present, I have well water iron: per evil pool store (in a plumbers warehouse no less) added bioguard metal magnet and sparkle up:


So following day backwash and clean filter, it's supposed to be magical... I start with my 80oz bleach... Saturday: 7/30/16... Two hours later:


Well I do love coffee but this isn't the magic I was hoping for. Pool store basically says sorry and they will resell me the same products for 60% off. Because this has "never" happened before and no, there is no $ back guarantee... No guarantee but I'm supposed to spend $85 ($55 w/ discount "work with you price.") and hope it works this time... Grrr

So I start the towels, hubs isn't home to fabricate a contraption so I start stuffing brand new hand towels in the skimmer. I can fit 3 w/o Interupting flow


If you needed a comparison:


Sunday: 7/31/16


Today:


Sorry the last one isn't directly above the stairs, I couldn't get my 3yr old to move.
Tada!

 

[max2k]

I read you said you 'have no algae just iron'- was it determined after overnight FC loss test? Just trying to make sure you have only 1 problem. It does look like iron especially taking into account your fill water source but I always check my assumptions .

 

[TraceingPaper]

I read you said you 'have no algae just iron'- was it determined after overnight FC loss test? Just trying to make sure you have only 1 problem. It does look like iron especially taking into account your fill water source but I always check my assumptions .

Yes, I went from 4fc to 3fc
Now I should be continuing to test and add daily even with this trouble correct? Hubs tested fc today all he wrote down was 3. He's already in bed (all that hard work making the polyfilled filter) so that's all I know for Monday :/

I'm considering a flocculant. And also stuffing the buckets with old cotton tshirts since the poly fill doesn't seem to grab anything. Also, we are going to try to make another one that connects to the inlet on the vac hose but with the holes around the outside of the bucket, also stuffed with cotton shirts. It couldn't hurt at this point... That way we have the inlet/vac in the center of the pool w/ bucket filter, I can keep the hand towels in the skimmer and the outlet bucket filter. All 3. I can't run this during the day while at work, I'm afraid the outlet may come off and drain my pool below the skimmer and all that added filtration really makes the pump get hot. So it'd be after work for about 5hrs. Then regular filtration during the night and rest of the day.

 

[max2k]

Yes, I went from 4fc to 3fc
Now I should be continuing to test and add daily even with this trouble correct? Hubs tested fc today all he wrote down was 3. He's already in bed (all that hard work making the polyfilled filter) so that's all I know for Monday :/

Yes, that's correct- iron & sanitation are 2 unrelated problems. Please maintain your FC according to FC/CYA chart.

I'm considering a flocculant. And also stuffing the buckets with old cotton tshirts since the poly fill doesn't seem to grab anything. Also, we are going to try to make another one that connects to the inlet on the vac hose but with the holes around the outside of the bucket, also stuffed with cotton shirts. It couldn't hurt at this point... That way we have the inlet/vac in the center of the pool w/ bucket filter, I can keep the hand towels in the skimmer and the outlet bucket filter. All 3. I can't run this during the day while at work, I'm afraid the outlet may come off and drain my pool below the skimmer and all that added filtration really makes the pump get hot. So it'd be after work for about 5hrs. Then regular filtration during the night and rest of the day.

I have only reading experience with metals so I hope someone else would advise you on this. As I said I was unable to find fast and sure way to get rid of it especially if drain is not an option. I just came across this thread today: http://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/77913-Patience!/page5 take a look at post #85.

 

[Vince-1961]

Hang in there, TraceingPaper and remember, patience is a virtue!

 

[pooldv]

If the polyfill isn't grabbing anything then I would question whether it is still iron. The water is cloudy and makes me think there is algae. I think i would SLAM the pool, SLAM Process

 

[Texas Splash]

This is quite a thread. Unfortunately, a lot of effort has been exhausted by not having the proper test kit. Accurate numbers play a huge part in your scenario. We know you have iron in the fill water. That's obvious. But so much time has passed without proper test results that now everyone is in the dark as to whether you have just an iron management issue or algae as well. The HTH 6-Way has its limitations and pool store testing is almost worthless at this point. So as soon as you get that K-2006 test kit, make sure to post a full set of results. That's absolutely critical to getting you (Traceingpaper) on the right track.

In the meantime, I would recommend using the HTH kit to test pH and keeping it low (7.2-7.4). FC should also be around 3-5 for now until you confirm your CYA with the K-2006 test kit. Continue any pre-filtering you can do, but don't go nuts trying to guess with chemistry or adding any pool store products until the K-2006 arrives. You'll just drive yourself nuts. Just use some muriatic acid to keep the pH down and a little bleach to maintain a minimum FC level and we'll go from there.

With the right test kit, we'll confirm if you even have algae. You can't SLAM without the proper test kit anyway.

 

[Johnnyeyez]

I agree with pooldv. SLAM it and SLAM it good. Can't hurt. You never know. Also, based on your original pool photo of a green pool you said no algae was present. Generally, a green pool means the opposite. Just my two cents [emoji16]


22K Gallon, 30 foot round AG
Dual speed 1.5 HP pump
Cartridge Filter
Jandy LRZ heater

 

[Swampwoman]

Traceing, when is your Taylor k2006 due to arrive. I'd like to see you post a complete set of numbers plus do another overnight chlorine loss before you slam.

I am clear you ave iron, but unclear as to whether you also have algae.

For the iron filtering since its already oxidized by the high FC, try The Slime Bag | The Easiest Way To Maintain Crystal Clear Pool Water. - getting the fitting that allows you to attach it to the return. It will take a while to filter out but the 1 micron filter will do a better job.

Once you have your kit and give a complete set of fresh tests we can talk about ways to reduce the iron on fill and later sequestering it. Right now, don't use the sequestrant as you're already oxidized and have the opportunity to reduce the iron load somewhat by filtering it out.

You also never wan to use sequestrant before a slam as the high FC wears it down/off. You want to be sure you've nailed any organics first

Lastly, I hope going forward you avoid pool store elixirs, stabilized products, etc. and use the TFP method of pool care, which will ultimately help you manage and avoid unintended consequences

Let me know the ppm of iron in your well and if you have a whole house softener available to you.

Cheers to clear.

 

[TraceingPaper]

I have .7ppm iron. Taylor kit is due here next week. I added two gallons bleach as per pool math for shocking level.
. I do have water filtration inside the home. Idk what kind exactly, there are two, The spools that look like thread. It took is two weeks to fill the pool. So draining isn't really what we want to do. I did start price checking other options for hauling water. Lowest I got was $750. But I'd need to have a sample tested before I start, it's taken from the city fire hydrant, I'd rather know for certain, just to be safe.

 

[Texas Splash]

That's a healthy iron content and will require some good water management, but we can give you more tips. For now, continue with the status-quo of keeping the pH on the low end (7.2-7.4) and pre-filtering. No need to increase FC too much since you really don't have a good way to even test the water until your test kit arrives. That's when progress will really kick into high gear. The elevated FC is only making your water (metal) more angry. :grrrr:

 

[Swampwoman]

Traceing, to give you a means of comparison, my raw well water is 2ppm...I've switched to now topping up through my dual tank water softener and attaching a 10"x4" Pentek blue filter housing with 1 micron filter to my hose....that gets it down to about .1 ppm

So if you meant .7 ppm as you wrote, we can probably get you to a management condition If that was a typo and you meant 7 ppm, that would more likely be a case for a (possibly dual if not air injected kind) green sand whole house iron/mag filtration system plumbed to the pool spigot, OR trucking in water and dual-filtering your hose water A water softener wouldn't remove enough iron at that rate alone.

Either way, the slimebag might be a good investment for you in both the immediate brown water clearing AND future top ups, so I'd try that first since the slimebag will not go to waste in any case.

 

[TraceingPaper]

Traceing, to give you a means of comparison, my raw well water is 2ppm...I've switched to now topping up through my dual tank water softener and attaching a 10"x4" Pentek blue filter housing with 1 micron filter to my hose....that gets it down to about .1 ppm

So if you meant .7 ppm as you wrote, we can probably get you to a management condition If that was a typo and you meant 7 ppm, that would more likely be a case for a (possibly dual if not air injected kind) green sand whole house iron/mag filtration system plumbed to the pool spigot, OR trucking in water and dual-filtering your hose water A water softener wouldn't remove enough iron at that rate alone.

Either way, the slimebag might be a good investment for you in both the immediate brown water clearing AND future top ups, so I'd try that first since the slimebag will not go to waste in any case.

Silly me, I'm sorry! Yes, it's 0.7ppm do you have a photo of this contraption? Could I refilter my current water through it with a pond or sump pump?

 

[Swampwoman]

You weren't silly, you wrote .7...I was just giving you an example.

Here's a link to the Pentek blue housing filter I was referring to and yes,if you bought some fittings I'm sure you could rig something up: Pentek 150469 3/4 Scientific

And filter: at about 85% particle efficiency at 10 gpm is Pentek DGD-2501 Spun Polypropylene Filter Cartridge, 10 Scientific

The threads on the big blue are meant for pipe bu we just got converter fittings for I. There also a version for 1" pipe/hose female npt connectin.

You can also daisy chain these, eg with a second unit with some that or filters a a higher micron, but that filter I posted starts out at 25 mcrons but reduces to 1 micron. It should catch much of your oxidized iron -- does a good job on mine.

The slimebag I linked to earlier is the same idea but "in pool" with the connector.

The benefit I like about the big blue housing is once you set it up, you can cheaply ($12) change the filters.

Lastly, just so you know, mechanical filters work well on the ferric type of iron tats visible in tint...the completely "invisible" ferrous iron requires oxidization for mecanical filtering. This means you can never wholly resolve iron issues with mechanical filtering alone...you still ultimately will need sequestrant to avoid staining after you clear your water of the visible iron. But anything that reduces the iron load at all helps reduce te amount of sequestrant needed and how often you need it and ergo makes management easer. The same is true for dilution.

 

[TraceingPaper]

You weren't silly, you wrote .7...I was just giving you an example.

Here's a link to the Pentek blue housing filter I was referring to and yes,if you bought some fittings I'm sure you could rig something up: Pentek 150469 3/4 Scientific

And filter: at about 85% particle efficiency at 10 gpm is Pentek DGD-2501 Spun Polypropylene Filter Cartridge, 10 Scientific

The threads on the big blue are meant for pipe bu we just got converter fittings for I. There also a version for 1" pipe/hose female npt connectin.

You can also daisy chain these, eg with a second unit with some that or filters a a higher micron, but that filter I posted starts out at 25 mcrons but reduces to 1 micron. It should catch much of your oxidized iron -- does a good job on mine.

The slimebag I linked to earlier is the same idea but "in pool" with the connector.

The benefit I like about the big blue housing is once you set it up, you can cheaply ($12) change the filters.

Lastly, just so you know, mechanical filters work well on the ferric type of iron tats visible in tint...the completely "invisible" ferrous iron requires oxidization for mecanical filtering. This means you can never wholly resolve iron issues with mechanical filtering alone...you still ultimately will need sequestrant to avoid staining after you clear your water of the visible iron. But anything that reduces the iron load at all helps reduce te amount of sequestrant needed and how often you need it and ergo makes management easer. The same is true for dilution.

So, please correct me if I'm wrong. I could get the pool less brown, perhaps kind of greenish and then add my sequestrant? Is that your pool in this process in your profile photo? We didn't order the slimebag, instead we ordered 2 biodiesel filter bags... 1micron and .5micron, apparently this is almost the same thing? It was only $11 so if that works wonderful we saved $40, if not oh well we only lost $11.

My hope is my husband sees the filter housing, can rig up something to pull the pool water through, then disperse it through the bd filter bag. Idk if there would be enough pressure from the filter housing set up to push it through the filter bag, if not I'll just throw it over my return valve.

Thank you everyone for your ideas, support and help. I can't wait to get my Taylor Kit! Right now the HTH kit I have says you can get FC and TC (total) but it just remains bright orange and doesn't go over 5. So idk. Maybe until my taylor kit gets here just keep my chlorine levels normal? Any ideas?