Chlorine loss / CYA 60 / SWG 3800

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Bbp

Bbp

Well-known member
Jun 3, 2016
216
md
Pool Size
35000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
I've been working on getting my CYA up by adding those packs of stabilizer to the basket. Tested this morning approx 60. SWG says my salt level is 3800 and salt test strip read 3600 so I think it's in there somewhere. Over the last week I've added 8 jugs of 6% bleach. CL is at 1.

A week ago chlorine level seemed fine, when I did another check to test PH I also did chlorine and it didn't read at all. I bought 8 jugs of bleach and added 4. Chlorine was high after that I don't remember the reading. A few days later it was gone again. A couple days ago I added the remaining for jugs and CL was 7-ish. Yesterday around 4, today 1.

Any ideas?

Thanks,bbp
 
That chlorine drop is extreme and not good. I'm assuming you opened recently correct? Let's get some more info from you ...
- How old are your test reagents?
- Which test kit are you using? Please add to signature.
- What "stabilizer packs" are you referring to?
- Who opened your pool?
- What other chemicals (if any) were added since opening?
- What does your pump pressure gauge look like (psi)?
- Do you recall what chemicals were added to the water at closing? (algaecide, antifreeze, etc)?
- Your signature shows Bioguard. Are you still using that, or just chlorine now?
 
-Regents are new and have not expired. I ordered new ones over the winter when TFTestkits had their sale.
- TF100 Test kit. I'll add it to my sig.
-HTH Stabilizer Pods as pictured. I've used 16 pods so far.
- Pool company opened the pool on 5/05.
- I've added Muriatic acid. I don't remember the exact amount. Was lowering the Ph.
- The pool company added algaecide and shocked when opening.
- Biogard is the SWG? I don't know a lot about the parts.
- I've added 6 or 7 bags of salt.
- Pump pressure is 22 psi
 

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Okay, so all-in-all no huge red flags that I see. All the bleach you have been adding was stretched across several days, so it's not uncommon to lose some each day, but of course your is excessive. While your CYA is slightly under the TFP minimum, it's not horribly low that would cause me to think the SWG wasn't able to keep-up. Instead, I'm starting to consider two things at the moment:
- Your SWG isn't operating properly
- You have algae that is consuming the chlorine
........ or perhaps both.

What I would do for now is simply leave the SWG off and treat your pool like a non-salt pool for today and tomorrow. Lower your pH to 7.2 in preparation for a SLAM Process. Use regular bleach and increase to a SLAM level of "24" based on your CYA of 60. Maintain that 24 as best as you can today and do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test this evening/tomorrow morning. Let's first see if excessive organics are consuming your chlorine at night first. The elevated FC is warranted since your FC has crashed several times. If you pass the OCLT, then we can look into SWG problems. But my gut tells me you might fail the OCLT based on all the other FC losses and need to continue a SLAM until you pass all 3 criteria. That would also explain why the SWG didn't seem to be doing anything because it cannot compete with algae.
 
I got a little ahead of myself and added approx 290oz of 6% and the last two stabilizer packets. Hoping to raise the FC and CYA to recommended levels. The SWG is pretty cloudy. I've never cleaned one before. I'll have to search for instructions.

After adding the bleach and stabilizer today is it still okay to try the OCLT?swg.jpg
 
Bbp said:
After adding the bleach and stabilizer today is it still okay to try the OCLT?
Click to expand...
Sure. Just make sure to do your first OCLT this evening after the sun goes down with water mixing well. Get yourself a rock-solid first FC test before bed, then test again in the morning before the sun hits the water. I would leave the pump running on low overnight just so it's always mixing and you don't have to wait in the morning to do the 2nd test.
 
First picture is from yesterday evening. The next three are from this morning. It looked much lighter (lower) at first then a few seconds later it was darker like yesterday's test.cl.jpgcl1.jpgcl2.jpgcl3.jpg
 
Those images are from the convenient OTO viewer, but not accurate enough. You need to use the FAS-DPD (powder & drops) portion of the TF-100 to get the accurate FC test results.

Use the the tube labled Chlorine Only and get a 10 ML water sample with one heaping scoop of powder. Mix until clear and divide result by 2. Example: 20 drops from pink to clear equals and FC of 10.
 

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I just did the FAS-DPD test. I couldn't count the drops they were coming out too fast, but I would say chlorine has to be around 8-10.
 
I still can't get the drops to come to one at a time. This morning test looked to be about half of last night. I would estimate. 5 last night, down to 3 this morning

CC is 0
 
I suspect you're squeezing the bottle to hard. Let's try a few things here. First, gently wipe the tip of the bottle to clean off anything that maybe there. Second, when you hold the bottle upside down, do any drops come out? Give this video a quick watch.......does your test look like that?
 
Not sure why this would make a difference for drops, but I was using my old 871 not the new one. I switched to the new one and FC is 1. I added more bleach and will recheck overnight tonight.
 
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