Chlorinator Off - Test Salt Level

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sqone2

Member
Aug 14, 2021
9
FL, USA
Hello TFP!

I've encountered my first major pool issue that does not seem to be an easy fix.

  • All of a sudden my system started showing "Chlorinator Off - Test Salt Level" (T-CELL-15-SWP)
  • I then cleaned my cell with acid, and added a fresh bag of salt. After a few days still seeing the same message
  • The pool store is reporting my salt level at 3400 so I know its not a salt issue
  • The pool store said my cell was probably bad and sold me a replacement cell (AQUARITE 40k X-LIFE CELL)
  • I installed the new cell and let it run for several more days, same message - no change at all, same message
  • Another weird thing is that when the system is off it will sometimes show that I have around 1700 PPM but then goes back to zero when running
No sure where to go from here, do I have a bad board or something?

System: Hayward Aqua Plus
Diagnostic screen:
+26.41V
+4.15A
Temp 83 F


Thank you in advance!!
 
Welcome to TFP and sorry you're having problems. I don't know much about your Hayward chlorinator but we have a LOT of information in our wiki here on your specific unit. Also, I believe Allen has experience with the unit. Over to you @ajw22 .

I hope this is helpful.

Chris
 
Welcome to TFP.

sqone2 said:
Hello TFP!

I've encountered my first major pool issue that does not seem to be an easy fix.

  • All of a sudden my system started showing "Chlorinator Off - Test Salt Level" (T-CELL-15-SWP)
  • I then cleaned my cell with acid, and added a fresh bag of salt. After a few days still seeing the same message
  • The pool store is reporting my salt level at 3400 so I know its not a salt issue
  • The pool store said my cell was probably bad and sold me a replacement cell (AQUARITE 40k X-LIFE CELL)
  • I installed the new cell and let it run for several more days, same message - no change at all, same message
  • Another weird thing is that when the system is off it will sometimes show that I have around 1700 PPM but then goes back to zero when running
Click to expand...

It is unclear to me when your SWG is working and when it is not among your bullet point comments.

sqone2 said:
No sure where to go from here, do I have a bad board or something?
Click to expand...

My guess right now is s board problem. Maybe a bad solder joint.

sqone2 said:
System: Hayward Aqua Plus
Diagnostic screen:
+26.41V
+4.15A
Temp 83 F
Click to expand...

Diagnostics...

We need full diagnostic information. in both polarities...

Here is the procedure for the AquaPlus:

Go to the diagnostic screen, note the readings and then press the + button to reverse the polarity.

When the new numbers appear, see what they are.

Then, press + again and note the new readings.

Report all readings.

Equipment...

What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?

What is the T-cell size?

Is the T-cell size set correctly in settings?

Performance Percentage...

To get the performance percentage of the cell in each polarity, divide the instant salinity reading in each polarity by the actual salinity reading.

For example, if the instant reading is 3,300 ppm and the actual salinity reading is 3,300 ppm, then the salt cell is working at 100%.

However, if the actual salinity was 3,800 ppm, then the performance percentage is 86.8%.

Anything over 75% is acceptable.

At 75%, or lower, in either polarity, it's time to consider replacing the cell.

Salinity...

What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?

The instant salinity in both polarities should be about the same (+/- about 200 ppm).

You need to be really sure about the actual salinity reading.

You need to use a K-1766 salt test kit or a calibrated meter.

K-1766 Taylor Salt Test

@JamesW
 
Hey Allen, thank you so much for the detailed reply!

Here are some images I just went out a took of my board and system, along with a test done by Pinch-a-penny on 8/14/2021:
https://imgur.com/a/1x4SgG4


I also made a quick video of the issue in action:

As you can see in the video, I am able to see the salt reading (both polarities) very briefly before the chlorinator turns off and it no longer lets me access the diagnostics.

Hopefully some of this is helpful! Please let me know if there's any other info I can provide to help diagnose the issue!


Thanks again!
 
Last edited:
That cell is about 7 years old and it is probably worn out.

Was the new cell a genuine Hayward T-15?

You need to be 100% sure about the actual salinity.

You should get a K-1766 salt test kit and a digital meter.
 
Yeah they told me the cell was old, and I had no issues buying a new one if that's indeed the issue.

I'm certain that the new cell was genuine Hayward.

Here's the receipt which shows the serial number:
https://imgur.com/a/N0LPvgl

I've also had several salt tests done by pinch-a-penny and all of them show the salt being in a good range (they've always been correct in the past 2 years I've had the pool).

I'll look into the K-1766 though!

If my salinity is indeed good, where would you recommend I go from here?
 

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I unfortunately did not take a picture of the cell before returning it. I could probably find out by calling pinch-a-penny tomorrow when the open.

Is only one of those a suitable replacement for the T-CELL-15?

Another issue which let me to return the new cell was that no matter how hard I tried, I could not get it to make a perfect seal. No matter what I did it leaked a bit. Not a huge leak but certainly a noticeable one. The new cell almost seemed a hair smaller than the one I had before, but that could have been in my head.
 
Hey TFP, I just wanted to come back and provide an update.

It was for SURE a bad cell. I have no idea why the one from pinch-a-penny did not work properly for me, maybe it was the wrong model as suggested.

I went ahead and got an off-brand one from Amazon (Blue Works BLT15H), and it instantly started showing the correct salinity as generating chlorine. Was also nice to save around $300 compared to the Hayward model.

Pool is back to looking great! Thanks for all your help!!
 
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