Chemistry issues persist

St. George

Member
Jul 20, 2022
5
St. George, UT
Pool Size
19800
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Ok, I have a new pool that we installed in February 2023. Since that time, we have had to drain the pool on 3 separate occasions (about 1/2 way each time) to get the CYA level down. Each time, the CYA levels were around 100 ppm (as told by my pool professional). Brown algae would develop in the usual places. Deep end corner of the pool and by the deep end light and near the bottom of the wall. Small blotches, no bigger that 8 inches in any direction.

Let me add, my concern with draining my pool is not water costs. In fact, our water rates in Southern Utah are pretty awesome compared to other parts of the country.

My issue with draining the pool is messing with the pools structure from water weight fluctuation. Our soil is stable, however we did have to take the extra effort during the build to provide a required soil sample to the county because of the area we're located in does have loose clay particles. So I prefer not having to drain if I don't have to. Furthermore, my Hayward pool equipment does not have a back wash hook up installed. I'll get to that more in a minute.

Below are some physical stats on my pool and home geography.
  • 16x34 (rectangle)
  • Around 20,000 gallon size
  • Built-in square spa in the upper right corner which provides spill over feature.
  • Hayward products (see photos)
  • Home is in St. George, Utah.
  • Summer peak high is 115 degrees. Routinely in the 100's June through early September. Mild winters.
I recently drained my pool about 1/2 way and then filled it back up three weeks ago and was able to get the CYA down to 70 (from 100). I had read that using liquid chlorine helps with CYA levels instead of using the pucks, because the pucks contain stabilizer. My pool professional also recommended this. So we made the switch to liquid chlorine with my pool professional. Good news, CYA levels have remained at 70 ppm. However, chlorine levels are near 0 ppm, even after pouring in 1 gallon of extra chlorine about 48 hours ago. Before that, chlorine was at 5 ppm. Brown algae is still appearing.

I also went a purchased a new pool cover, as the amazon rinky dink solor covers were barely making it 12 months after shedding and falling apart everywhere. I purchased the GeoBubble Energy Guard and have been using this cover for about 6 weeks now. It heats up my pool much faster than the Amazon covers. As of this week (we've been in the 90's and low 100's) my pool has been up to 87 degrees.

Should I remove the cover during the day to give my pool enough hours to "breath? Or, keep the cover on (when we're not using the pool) but risk the pool temperatures potentially climbing up into the mid 90's? I've seen it get this high last July when we were visiting family for a week in Southern California.

My pool professional has recommended the following options to combat the chemistry issues I've been experiencing.
  1. Install a back wash line on my equipment to drain the pool water every few weeks (especially in the summer). ISSUE - My pool sits in my back yard which is about 20 feet lower the main entry point on the front side of my property. Meaning, each time I've had to pump water out of the pool I've had to pump water up hill and into my waste water outlet. It puts tremendous pressure on my small pump and takes about 8 hours just to get the pool drained about 1/2 way. Not ideal. Commercial property backs up behind me, so I can't drain water that direction nor to the side (neighbors).
  2. Add about 1 gallon of liquid chlorine each week during the hot months, which could get pricey but it will keep chlorine stable (maybe).
  3. Install auto pool chlorine feeder on my equipment, which he says would be a couple thousand dollars by another company (he only does pool cleaning and chemistry).
In case your wondering, my pool builder is not someone that I can go to for assistance here. Unfortunately, we had a legal fallout which ended up in small claims and us receiving an award judgement once everything was wrapped up. I'm simply providing this information for more context.

Anyway, any help or guidance would be much appreciated. Should I consider someone else taking care of my pool? Does my cover need to be off during the hot day, but put back on at night to keep chemical balance? Which of the three options that my pool professional outlined makes the most sense (if any)?

Thank you all for your assistance. Pictures below for some reference.
20250530_124305.jpg20250530_124240.jpg20250517_173009.jpg
 
Step 1. Ditch the 'professional' who you're paying and who thinks draining 10,000 gallons of water every couple weeks is part of the process.
Step 2. Order a test kit. You're on the right track with monitoring CYA and ditching the pucks. You need a proper test kit to properly assess your water. Draining 10,000 gallons should be the rarity and not the norm.
Step 3. Read the links on the left side under pool school. Taking care of your pool is pretty simple once you get a good grasp on the basics.
Step 4. Update your signature with your pool equipment and specs so when folks are trying to help you they can see what the general setup you're using is.

This forum will get you set on the right path in no time.
 
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As for the cover, buy the cheapest 8-12 mil cover from wherever you can get it. Your cover sitting on that reel in the sun will get smoked (the bubbles will degrade and peel off) in about a year. Cover as needed once you get your water chemistry in check. Use for heating/evaporation prevention as needed. Personally, if your water is cheap, I would only use it for temperature reasons.
 
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Step 1. Ditch the 'professional' who you're paying and who thinks draining 10,000 gallons of water every couple weeks is part of the process.
Step 2. Order a test kit. You're on the right track with monitoring CYA and ditching the pucks. You need a proper test kit to properly assess your water. Draining 10,000 gallons should be the rarity and not the norm.
Step 3. Read the links on the left side under pool school. Taking care of your pool is pretty simple once you get a good grasp on the basics.
Step 4. Update your signature with your pool equipment and specs so when folks are trying to help you they can see what the general setup you're using is.

This forum will get you set on the right path in no time.
Appreciate the information and honest feedback. I've updated my signature with pool equipment info.

Do you recommend any test kits in particular that are simple to read? I'm looking at the Taylor test kits ranging from $70 to $125 online.

How about digital test kits? Honestly, I'd be willing to pay a little more if there was a digital test kit that came recommended from the group that was easier to read and store data. Thanks again for your feedback.
 
Appreciate the information and honest feedback. I've updated my signature with pool equipment info.

Do you recommend any test kits in particular that are simple to read? I'm looking at the Taylor test kits ranging from $70 to $125 online.

How about digital test kits? Honestly, I'd be willing to pay a little more if there was a digital test kit that came recommended from the group that was easier to read and store data. Thanks again for your feedback.
I got the PH digi tester that was an option with the TFPRO and while it does give you an actual number, it takes far too long to stabilize at that number and I can do 2-3 PH drop tests in the time it takes to stabilize.

The drop tests look intimidating but I promise you, once you follow the steps a few times it becomes very easy. Get the PoolMath app and use that to record your readings as well.
 
How often are you or your “pro” adding liquid. Using liquid is not a dump once a week proposition. If you’re using liquid your pool will require daily feeding of chlorine. Even more so now that you have algae.