Chemicals seem to have no effect

[reggiehammond]

Can you test your fill water that would be used to top off the pool and post those numbers for CH? That will indicate how much water needs to be removed. Do you have a water softener? Can it be used to fill the pool?

Most folks in NV/AZ have hard water high in CH. Every time you fill for evaporation, you add CH. You eventually have to dump the water and start over, but with softened water, you can avoid.

Right now, your water temp is likely cool, so algae is less of a concern. But you have very low FC that needs correcting. Before you do a lot though, let's see how much water needs to go.

 

[CarefreeTee]

Can you test your fill water that would be used to top off the pool and post those numbers for CH? That will indicate how much water needs to be removed. Do you have a water softener? Can it be used to fill the pool?

Most folks in NV/AZ have hard water high in CH. Every time you fill for evaporation, you add CH. You eventually have to dump the water and start over, but with softened water, you can avoid.

Right now, your water temp is likely cool, so algae is less of a concern. But you have very low FC that needs correcting. Before you do a lot though, let's see how much water needs to go.

Ok I will test fill water tomorrow (both). We do have a water softener and we might be able to use it for initial fill. I’ll find out. Thank you

 

[duraleigh]

Your softener will not have the capacity to completely fill your pool.

That said, let's see the results of your fill water............the softener can still likely help you a lot.

 

[CarefreeTee]

Ok I will test fill water tomorrow (both). We do have a water softener and we might be able to use it for initial fill. I’ll find out. Thank you

Good morning:

Soft water = CH 50
Main water = CH 250
Soft water is definitely available for initial refill.

Question on CH test. Do you keep putting in R-0012 until true blue or just until you see the red change abruptly to a blue/slightly purplish color?

 

[mknauss]

You will be best off to drain the pool nearly empty and then refill with non softened water. Then, if at all possible, use only softened water for make up water due to evaporation. Is there any way you can plumb your autofill to the soft water?

The CH test is done until the sample turns blue. The 'purplish' color is the fading endpoint. You should not see much of that doing the fill water test. But you likely see it doing your pool water. That is caused by the metal content (iron) in your pool water.

 

[reggiehammond]

What Marty said...

Fill with CH 250, but then only top off with your softened water will give you the longest possible runway to keep CH levels manageable.

 

[CarefreeTee]

You will be best off to drain the pool nearly empty and then refill with non softened water. Then, if at all possible, use only softened water for make up water due to evaporation. Is there any way you can plumb your autofill to the soft water?

The CH test is done until the sample turns blue. The 'purplish' color is the fading endpoint. You should not see much of that doing the fill water test. But you likely see it doing your pool water. That is caused by the metal content (iron) in your pool water.

Thank you both.

OK…well we discussed the soft water for the pool when they installed it (The soft water) and the general consensus was that we would go through too much salt Or it would be running all the time or something, but I’ll circle back on that With installer. I have not emptied the pool for probably 10 years And I’m just having this problem. So The fill water is not that bad of a problem in my view. But I will pursue the soft water alternative if it makes sense Economically.

I need to round up a pump and I may not be able to get to this for a week or so.
Should I shock the pool In the meantime to get more chlorine into it?

Also, what chemicals should I have on hand for pool start up? Is there a good section of the forum that prepares you for new water?

 

[Newdude]

I need to round up a pump and I may not be able to get to this for a week or so.

This one is $83 and would take a little over 2 hours to empty your pool.

Should I shock the pool In the meantime to get more chlorine into it?

Shock whatever is left after mostly draining and then start filling.

Also, what chemicals should I have on hand for pool start up?

Granular CYA because the fill water is 0.

Your 250 CH fill water is fine on its own. In the time it takes to decide, get quotes for the softener and the install, it'll probably be over 300. If not you can always add it later. But if you don't install a softener, you want to start a little low like it'll be upon filling.

Muriatic acid will be needed too at some point.

Is there a good section of the forum that prepares you for new water?

We do, but I think they're all how to care for new plaster. Doing a refill is much simpler. Plus, you have the gang all here already. Mix it well and report where it landed and we'll go from there.

 

[mknauss]

I have not emptied the pool for probably 10 years

You have either done smaller drain and refills during that time or your current CH level is not correct.

 

[duraleigh]

There is too much confusion here. All of us TFP members are saying to refill your pool with CH 250 water.

Once refilled use your 50 PPM softened water for maintenance refills. easy peasy

 

[CarefreeTee]

You have either done smaller drain and refills during that time or your current CH level is not correct.

I think we’ve had some accidental partial drain and refills. We used to be on a manual system and we over-filled a lot. I think I left my Polaris out on the deck a couple nights ;( and it systematically drew the pool down quite a bit when the pump started up. Anyway I’m quite sure the results are correct.

 

[CarefreeTee]

I think we’ve had some accidental partial drain and refills. We used to be on a manual system and we over-filled a lot. I think I left my Polaris out on the deck a couple nights ;( and it systematically drew the pool down quite a bit when the pump started up. Anyway I’m quite sure the results are correct.

Ok. I’m back. We can’t do the drain/refill untill after the new year. I have chlorine tabs floating and have shocked with one bag. Still no chlorine reading with drop test using just R-0600. Very very pale and <0.5. I’m not concerned about swimming or it being perfect. I just don’t want the pool to be damaged. Wondering if I should just throw another bag or two of shock in? One of the time of course check for readings a couple days later.

Not clear which form of chlorine to get a reading on drop test.

 

[Newdude]

I’m not concerned about swimming or it being perfect. I just don’t want the pool to be damaged.

You'll be fine. You need the FC in range per your CYA. Anything else is a long term concern.




Liquid chlorine is best. Tabs take a while to dissolve in cool water, and raise your CYA a couple each. Bags of shock are cal-hypo and will raise the CH a little each instead. They also might cloud up the pool for a few days.

But as long as you know you can afford a CYA/CH boost, any of them work and the chlorine part is all equal.

 

[Mdragger88]

Ok. I’m back. We can’t do the drain/refill untill after the new year. I have chlorine tabs floating and have shocked with one bag. Still no chlorine reading with drop test using just R-0600. Very very pale and <0.5. I’m not concerned about swimming or it being perfect. I just don’t want the pool to be damaged. Wondering if I should just throw another bag or two of shock in? One of the time of course check for readings a couple days later.

Not clear which form of chlorine to get a reading on drop test.

Your last test posted test results was 10 days ago. Newer results would be helpful.

Going on that you don’t need anymore cya so discontinue use of pucks.
Use liquid chlorine to maintain target fc levels
FC/CYA Levels
This will generally require daily dosing as the pool consumes fc daily.
Trichlor & powdered “shock” products add things that you don’t need like calcium & cya.
You want cc to be zero
FC should be target range as listed on the chart.
Use the fas/dpd test not the yellow OTO test.
There is no one form of chlorine that is more effective than another if used in comparative amounts. Liquid chlorine is the most innocuous as far as side effects are concerned.

How to Chlorinate Your Pool

Before chlorinating your pool, you should know these simple tips. Learn the best way to add chlorine to your pool.

www.google.com

 

[CarefreeTee]

This one is $83 and would take a little over 2 hours to empty your pool.

Shock whatever is left after mostly draining and then start filling.

Granular CYA because the fill water is 0.

Your 250 CH fill water is fine on its own. In the time it takes to decide, get quotes for the softener and the install, it'll probably be over 300. If not you can always add it later. But if you don't install a softener, you want to start a little low like it'll be upon filling.

Muriatic acid will be needed too at some point.


We do, but I think they're all how to care for new plaster. Doing a refill is much simpler. Plus, you have the gang all here already. Mix it well and report where it landed and we'll go from there.

We have our pump and we're ready to drain and refill tonight. Should take about 3 hours to drain. I'm coming back at this after 3 months; but I believe I understand that I should just refill with tap water and then run startup tests once full. I can post here and then strategize on what adjusting needs to be done. It's very cool here at 69 degrees. It'll be 61 to 55 degrees while we're filling overnight.

 

[Newdude]

I believe I understand that I should just refill with tap water and then run startup tests once full. I can post here and then strategize on what adjusting needs to be done

*exactly* that ^^^^^^^


We'll have helpers ready around the clock if need be. You should see how smart our Aussie friends are who take the night shift. All the blood flows to their brains being upside down.

 

[CarefreeTee]

This one is $83 and would take a little over 2 hours to empty your pool.

Shock whatever is left after mostly draining and then start filling.

Granular CYA because the fill water is 0.

Your 250 CH fill water is fine on its own. In the time it takes to decide, get quotes for the softener and the install, it'll probably be over 300. If not you can always add it later. But if you don't install a softener, you want to start a little low like it'll be upon filling.

Muriatic acid will be needed too at some point.


We do, but I think they're all how to care for new plaster. Doing a refill is much simpler. Plus, you have the gang all here already. Mix it well and report where it landed and we'll go from there.

We have our pump and we're ready to drain and refill tonight. Should take about 3 hours to drain. I'm coming back at this after 3 months; but I believe I understand that I should just refill with tap water and then run startup tests once full. I can post here and then strategize on what adjusting needs to be done. It's very cool here at 69 degrees. It'll be 61 to 55 degrees while we're filling overnight.

I just noticed the part about shocking whatever water is left from pumping. Do this?

 

[Newdude]

I just noticed the part about shocking whatever water is left from pumping. Do this?

If you miss 15 gallons, don't worry about it. If you miss 500+ gallons, guesstimate and treat it as you start to fill.

 

[CarefreeTee]

If you miss 15 gallons, don't worry about it. If you miss 500+ gallons, guesstimate and treat it as you start to fill.

We have 10-15 left so not adding anything. Starting to refill 6am

 

[CarefreeTee]

*exactly* that ^^^^^^^


We'll have helpers ready around the clock if need be. You should see how smart our Aussie friends are who take the night shift. All the blood flows to their brains being upside down.

Hi There. This pool is a pebble-tec with approximately 10,000 gallons. We're about 1/3 full. Is there any way to get a feel for how much CYA product we would need? No, I haven't done tests yet but I have my prior test for tap water Main water = CH 250. I could run some tap water tests now to get an approximate amount of CYA to buy.