Chemical Levels

SummerJake

Silver Supporter
Aug 26, 2022
33
CA
Pool Size
8400
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Hi TFP,

I thought I was getting the hang of everything but maybe not. Different websites are indicating different things.

Used TF 100 kit:
ph: 7.5
CYA: 40
TA: 100
CH: 325
FC: 7.5
CC: 0.5
TC: (7.5+0.5=8)?
I inputted my results to path math and not much alerting information other than lowering my TA to 80 with muriatic acid & increasing my CH to 350/400 with borax.

But on other websites, I’m seeing that TC should only be 1-3ppm, anything above is dangerous. I’m very confused. Any tips, advice? Pool is clear but it looks green because of the walls- I had a green swamp for a year or two.
 

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Hi TFP,

I thought I was getting the hang of everything but maybe not. Different websites are indicating different things.

Used TF 100 kit:
ph: 7.5
CYA: 40
TA: 100
CH: 325
FC: 7.5
CC: 0.5
TC: (7.5+0.5=8)?
I inputted my results to path math and not much alerting information other than lowering my TA to 80 with muriatic acid & increasing my CH to 350/400 with borax.

But online/google, I’m seeing that TC should only be 1-3ppm, anything above is dangerous. I’m very confused. Any tips, advice? Pool is clear but it looks green because of the walls- I had a green swamp for a year or two.
 

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Your numbers are fine.
Your TA is fine, leave it alone and manage your pH to keep it in the 7s.
Your CH is fine, I would not raise it, min is 200. What is the CH of your fill water.
For your FC, ALWAYS chlorinate based on your CYA level...THIS is the article you need...Link-->FC/CYA Levels
 
Your numbers are fine.
Your TA is fine, leave it alone and manage your pH to keep it in the 7s.
Your CH is fine, I would not raise it, min is 200. What is the CH of your fill water.
For your FC, ALWAYS chlorinate based on your CYA level...THIS is the article you need...Link-->FC/CYA Levels
Thanks! I thought my numbers were fine, but am I misunderstanding that my total chlorine shouldn’t be exceeding 3? Mines 8.
 
Borax will not raise your CH.

Use the FC/CYA Levels to determine needed FC levels.
Suggest you dose to the high end of the target range. This will provide a cushion until your next chlorine dose.
Never let the FC get to minimum.

The 1-3 for chlorine is old industry standards and doesn't take the buffering ability of CYA into account.
It's outdated information. If you want to be less confused, stay away from other pool sites

Where in Cali are you? Update your accoint details with city, state.
Test the pH, TA and CH of your fill water so you know those numbers for a baseline.
 
Different websites are indicating different things.
I would suggest limiting your quest for knowledge to TFP. Otherwise, it's easy to be overwhelmed by conflicting opinions and misinformation.

I inputted my results to path math and not much alerting information other than lowering my TA to 80 with muriatic acid & increasing my CH to 350/400 with borax.
PoolMath is just a calculator. If you give it a target, it will tell you how to achieve it. Don't blindly follow its output. Your TA is fine and will come down with MA additions as you manage pH. Don't touch your CH, it's fine. Borax doesn't affect CH.

But on other websites, I’m seeing that TC should only be 1-3ppm, anything above is dangerous. I’m very confused.
Stay with TFP. Those FC recommendations assume no CYA. Always maintain your FC at or above target for your CYA level.

Pool is clear but it looks green because of the walls- I had a green swamp for a year or two.
What happens when you brush? Any copper in the water? Are you passing an OCLT?
 
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But on other websites, I’m seeing that TC should only be 1-3ppm, anything above is dangerous.
Keep in mind TFP publishes an FC/CYA Levels chart that carefully calculates the FC-to-CYA ratio for optimal sanitation and algae prevention to optimize water clarity. Those "generic" industry levels you are referring to are the same for TA, CH, and other parameters. You can't mix TFP practices with those very generic across-the-board levels. The TFP FC level (ratio) is proven to be absolutely safe.

You are correct: 7.5 + 0.5 = 8.0 TC. :goodjob:

If you have locally hard water, I would leave the CH alone.
 
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I would suggest limiting your quest for knowledge to TFP. Otherwise, it's easy to be overwhelmed by conflicting opinions and misinformation.


PoolMath is just a calculator. If you give it a target, it will tell you how to achieve it. Don't blindly follow its output. Your TA is fine and will come down with MA additions as you manage pH. Don't touch your CH, it's fine. Borax doesn't affect CH.


Stay with TFP. Those FC recommendations assume no CYA. Always maintain your FC at or above target for your CYA level.


What happens when you brush? Any copper in the water? Are you passing an OCLT?
No cooper in water. I have noticed parts of my walls are now spotty, so it’s slowly coming off. Do I need to SLAM?

No more than 0.5-1ppm loss overnight but my OCLT is not accurate as my pump is on at night and my chlorine tablet floater is in water. Tomorrow night, I will attempt to do a successful OCLT and report back.
 
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Hi TFP,

I thought I was getting the hang of everything but maybe not. Different websites are indicating different things.

Used TF 100 kit:
ph: 7.5
CYA: 40
TA: 100
CH: 325
FC: 7.5
CC: 0.5
TC: (7.5+0.5=8)?
I inputted my results to path math and not much alerting information other than lowering my TA to 80 with muriatic acid & increasing my CH to 350/400 with borax.

But on other websites, I’m seeing that TC should only be 1-3ppm, anything above is dangerous. I’m very confused. Any tips, advice? Pool is clear but it looks green because of the walls- I had a green swamp for a year or two.
It is scary at first since other websites or pool stores say to keep your chlorine at 1-4ppm. But none of these places take into account the relationship between Chlorine and CYA.
PH and CYA are important in terms of how harsh your chlorine will be and what is actually active in your pool at all times. When CYA is involved a lot of it is bound and in reserve. One more note, it's scarier to swim in an under chlorinated pool, than an over chlorinated pool.
 
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You can't confirm that until you are able to accurately perform the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test. If you fail the OCLT, then yes, you would go into the SLAM Process.
On OCLT page, it stated to turn off chlorine feedersprior to testing. So with a tablet floater, would I just simply remove it from the pool?

This morning’s level:
FC: 7.5
CC: 0.0
CH: 400
TA: 100
CYA: 40
pH: 7.8

Will attempt OCLT tonight. Bright side, it has been two weeks since our last pool service , pool isn’t green nor murky so that’s a win.
 
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Nice to hear you passed the OCLT. :goodjob: With a plaster pool, you certainly can use a steel brush, or even a 50/50 brush if you wish. I would not use any algaecides. There is no need with a properly chlorinated pool. If you have some stubborn organic staining behind, it may take a while for those to disappear. You can keep the FC level slightly higher than normal for a while to see if that helps.
 
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