Check valve issue on heater bypass

[popechild]

I re-plumbed my pad this spring due to some construction that required the pad to move, and plumbed in a bypass for my heater, which it hadn't had before. Now that the temps are dropping, I'm using the bypass for the first time and am trying to winterize the heater (Aquacal). The instructions they provide say to use the bypass, then simply unscrew the unions to let the heater drain completely for a few days, then loosely reconnect them for the winter.

My issue is in the couple of days I've had it bypassed with the unions completely disconnected, I've noticed that the check valve does not completely keep water from going through, so water continues to occasionally leak out of the open union that leads to the heater output. I'm concerned that if I loosely reconnect the unions as the manufacturer suggests, some amount of water will continue to get past the check valve and into the heater, and potentially damage the heater during a freeze. (Atlanta area, so no extended deep freezes, but occasionally back to back days below freezing definitely possible.) On the other hand, if I don't reconnect the unions, I'll end up with water consistently draining out of the lines a little bit at a time and the pool level lowering as a result.

My question is, is this the way the check valve is supposed to work, or could mine be faulty? I've never used one before. I was under the impression it should prevent any water from going through "backwards." If it matters, I currently have my pump on at a pretty low speed (1600).

Thanks!

 

[PoolGate]

The check valves works via a spring. It should stay shut unless water is pushing on it. You can take that apart and see if anything is stuck in it. Mine got messed up but they are easy to fix. Being new, you should have no issues taking it apart for an inspection.

 

[popechild]

Okay thanks. I'm familiar with the spring nature, but not having used one before, wasn't sure if I was over-estimating how good a job it was supposed to do in staying shut. So you're confirming that it should stay completely shut at all times that water isn't pushing through from the input side of it and no water should ever be getting through if it's working properly, right? I'll take it apart and see if I can find anything sticking or loose. Thanks.

 

[PoolGate]

Here is a good video on the operation and maintenance of the Jandy check valves.

 

[popechild]

Thanks!

 

[popechild]

Following up here. I took apart the valve and checked it for any signs of tears, dirt, etc. Everything looks brand new (it was installed less than a year ago.) Put it back together trying to make sure it was as secure as possible, but still leaked. Bought Magic Lube and took it apart again, lubed it well, put it back together and waited about 48 hours before starting the pump again.

I'm still getting leakage. I can tell because I currently have the unions disconnected from the heater (the heater company said to disconnect and only gently reconnect when winterizing using a bypass, so I've left them disconnected while I figure out my check valve issue.)

I can purchase a new valve flat kit and see if there's an issue with my current one I'm just not seeing, but I'm curious if I'm just expecting too much? Is it unusual to have an imperfect seal or to get a small amount of leakage "backwards" through the valve even when it's operating properly? You can see the wet ground underneath the open union in the picture. It drips occasionally but is not a significant flow. My concern is if too much backs up into the heater and causes any issues with freezing during the winter.

If it's helpful, one thing I've noticed is that it definitely opens the valve and water leaks out whenever I turn off/on the pump. My pool pad is a little bit above the level of the pool and with the unions open, when I turn off the pump I can hear air getting sucked into the unions and the water drains down the lines toward the pool. As it's doing that, it seems like there's suction pulling the flap open on the valve and more water leaks out. When I turn the pump back on, once it's re-primed and water begins flowing properly, the amount of water getting through diminishes to an occasional drip, but it's still there.

Thanks!

 

[PoolGate]

I don't think these are really designed to be a permanent water block system. When pressurized they should stop most, if not all of the water. But when they are not pressurized, water will most likely get past the flap. It depends on how much pressure is being exerted.

Typically when you winterize a pool, you winterize it entirely, blowing all the lines of water. If I understand correctly, you are just partially winterizing your pool, leaving water in the lines but wanting to empty the heater core. To do that, you should have a bypass piece that you install after disconnecting the heater in place of the heater input/output. Sometimes this is referred to as a "spool".

 

[ajw22]

Buy a Jandy 2 way valve. For the winter remove the flapper on the check valve and put in the diverter you remove from the 2 way valve. Swap the CV back in when you open the pool and connect the heater.

Check that you have enough clearance for the valve handle as the way they put the CV in may be tight.

It sounds like you are keeping your pool pump running and water circulating for the winter. I am not sure why you want to winterize your heater other then if your pool freezes during the winter your most expensive piece of equipment, the heat pump, will not be damaged.

 

[popechild]

I don't think these are really designed to be a permanent water block system. When pressurized they should stop most, if not all of the water. But when they are not pressurized, water will most likely get past the flap. It depends on how much pressure is being exerted.

Typically when you winterize a pool, you winterize it entirely, blowing all the lines of water. If I understand correctly, you are just partially winterizing your pool, leaving water in the lines but wanting to empty the heater core. To do that, you should have a bypass piece that you install after disconnecting the heater in place of the heater input/output. Sometimes this is referred to as a "spool".

That's an interesting idea. I had not considered or seen the spool idea, but it makes sense. Thanks!

 

[popechild]

Buy a Jandy 3 way valve. For the winter remove the flapper on the check valve and put in the diverter you remove from the 3 way valve. Swap the CV back in when you open the pool and connect the heater.

Check that you have enough clearance for the valve handle as the way they put the CV in may be tight.

It sounds like you are keeping your pool pump running and water circulating for the winter. I am not sure why you want to winterize your heater other then if your pool freezes during the winter your most expensive piece of equipment, the heat pump, will not be damaged.

Also an interesting idea. I am indeed planning to run the pump all winter, but in Atlanta we do occasionally get long enough freezes (like last winter) that I'd rather not count on the pump to be the sole source of protection for the heat pump.

 

[popechild]

Buy a Jandy 3 way valve. For the winter remove the flapper on the check valve and put in the diverter you remove from the 3 way valve. Swap the CV back in when you open the pool and connect the heater.

Check that you have enough clearance for the valve handle as the way they put the CV in may be tight.

It sounds like you are keeping your pool pump running and water circulating for the winter. I am not sure why you want to winterize your heater other then if your pool freezes during the winter your most expensive piece of equipment, the heat pump, will not be damaged.

Following up on this idea, do I actually even need a 3-way valve, or is what I need just a 2-way diverter? There's only 1 in and 1 out. Seems like if I just close the diverter it would force everything the way I want it to go, no? Assuming the 2-way diverter will fit inside the housing for the check valve?

 

[ajw22]

Following up on this idea, do I actually even need a 3-way valve, or is what I need just a 2-way diverter? There's only 1 in and 1 out. Seems like if I just close the diverter it would force everything the way I want it to go, no? Assuming the 2-way diverter will fit inside the housing for the check valve?

Yeah, it is a 2-way.

Jandy 2 way diverter and check valves use the same housing.

 

[popechild]

Yeah, it is a 2-way.

Jandy 2 way diverter and check valves use the same housing.

Thank you.