Check system very low salt

[Ricesar]

Hi everyone,
just wondering if you could share some recommendations on how to troubleshoot the following error:
Check system very low salt. Salt level 0000PPM.
Tested the water at home and also double checked at a local pool store. salt level is actually around 3k ppm. The cell was about 5 1/2 years old. So I went ahead and replaced it with a new one (exact same make/model) since the average lifespan of these units is not significantly more than that. Installed the new one but the new chlorinator is off due to low salt level.

Diagnostic menu indicates Chlorinator off Test salt level.
If I press + button on diagnostic menu, it shows +31.10V, 86F, +0.00A, 0000PPM
If I press - button, on diagnostic menu, it shows -31.05V, 86F, -0.00A, 0000PPM

I don’t see any other errors displayed. Air temperature, water temperature and flow sensor readings look ok. Filter pump is on. Any idea what to test/check next?


Here‘s some info about the system:

pool size: ~15k gallons
Type: salt water
Automation system: Hayward Aqua Logic, Firmware Revision: 2.61
Chlorinator: Hayward turbo cell 15

The system was built in 2006. Is it possible the issue is the main board? It has never been replaced to my knowledge. should I consider replacing GLX PCB MAIN? Any feedback will be greatly appreciated.

 

[mknauss]

Welcome to the forum!

Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

See if that article helps.
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry.

 

[setsailsoon]

Rice,

Welcome to TFP!

Please place the pool and equipment information in your "signature". This will keep you from typing it every time and make it easier for experts to provide advice sooner without requesting the information from you. Here's how to do it.

Good luck with this issue. Ask any questions the article Marty suggested might raise.

Chris

 

[Ricesar]

Rice,

Welcome to TFP!

Please place the pool and equipment information in your "signature". This will keep you from typing it every time and make it easier for experts to provide advice sooner without requesting the information from you. Here's how to do it.

Good luck with this issue. Ask any questions the article Marty suggested might raise.

Chris

Thanks, just updated my signature. Cheers

 

[Ricesar]

Welcome to the forum!

Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

See if that article helps.
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry.

Thanks, I’ve just reviewed the article. In my understanding my water chemistry is ok/Balanced and salt levels are within recommended parameters. cheers

 

[Ricesar]

Thanks, I’ve just reviewed the article. In my understanding my water chemistry is ok/Balanced and salt levels are within recommended parameters. cheers

Just now realized you shared another article. This section seems promising. it looks like I have to check those 3 bullet items from the excerpt below. Agree? Thanks very much

LOW SALT Message & 0 Salinity, 0 Amps
The salt cell does not have the DC voltage needed to function. The symptoms correlate to either of the following;

• Bad In-Rush Current Limiter (RZ3)
• K1 or K2 Bad solder (most likely suspect)
• Logic Controller failure (worse case scenario)

A replacement board should fix this issue. If you're technically inclined, you might save the existing board by inspecting the solder or by replacing the relay if determined faulty.[33]

 

[mknauss]

Most likely. Take a look at your board and see if any of those issues are present.

 

[Ricesar]

Most likely. Take a look at your board and see if any of those issues are present.

Marty, it turns out that K1, K2 and K3 relay points have burnt solder joints. should I try and get those parts? Maybe I’m using incorrect search criteria but I cannot seem to find them on amazon or eBay or the Hayward parts list. Or at this juncture, it would be easier to get a new PCB? Thanks for your support. Much appreciated sir

 

[mknauss]

I believe you just have to clean up and re-solder those joints. I am not an expert at that.

Let's see if some other folks can guide you --- @ajw22 @JamesW

 

[Ricesar]

thanks, much appreciated.

 

[JamesW]

Can you show a picture?

 

[Ricesar]

Sure, here is a picture. Thanks

 

[ajw22]

Marty, it turns out that K1, K2 and K3 relay points have burnt solder joints. should I try and get those parts? Maybe I’m using incorrect search criteria but I cannot seem to find them on amazon or eBay or the Hayward parts list. Or at this juncture, it would be easier to get a new PCB? Thanks for your support. Much appreciated sir

Usually the burnt solder pads just need to be rebuilt with some solder. The relays do not need to be replaced.

You can find the relays at...

G8P-1C4P DC24 Omron Electronics Inc-EMC Div | Relays | DigiKey

Order today, ships today. G8P-1C4P DC24 – General Purpose Relay SPDT (1 Form C) 24VDC Coil Through Hole from Omron Electronics Inc-EMC Div. Pricing and Availability on millions of electronic components from Digi-Key Electronics.

www.digikey.com

(RR #43) New Omron Relay 24vdc SPDT G8P-1C4P-24VDC NO 20A, NC 10A 250VAC: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

(RR #43) New Omron Relay 24vdc SPDT G8P-1C4P-24VDC NO 20A, NC 10A 250VAC: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

www.amazon.com

 

[Ricesar]

Thanks @ajw22 greatly appreciate it

 

[JamesW]

Try touching up the solder.

 

[Ricesar]

Will do. And if it doesn’t work, I’ll order/install new relays per your recommendation. Thanks for your support!

 

[Ricesar]

@ajw22 and @mknauss - sorry for the delayed response as just now received a soldering kit that I’ve purchased on Amazon. I’d like to share that touching up the solder did the trick. Salt Level is detected at about 3k ppm. Chlorinator is now enabled. Thank you for your excellent support!

 

[mknauss]

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