Chasing pH

[Jameshtx]

I test n adjust my ph weekly n its always testing at 8+. I tested it just now and it’s the same thing. What on earth could be causing this?

Today’s test results

Cya 50
FC 5
CC 0
TA 80
CH 320
pH 8+

I use pool math and adjust it by muratic acid

 

[mknauss]

What is the TA and pH of your fill water? How much fill water do you have to add due to evaporation?

Your plaster is relatively new. That pushes up the pH also.

Any water features or spillovers that run every day?

 

[Jameshtx]

No water features no fountains. I have an auto filler that replaces evaporated water and it goes through my water softener system

 

[mknauss]

Water softener does not reduce TA. Only CH. Test your fill water for TA.

 

[Jameshtx]

Water softener does not reduce TA. Only CH. Test your fill water for TA.

So test for TA on fill water using the same method as pool water?

Okay testing it now

 

[Jameshtx]

Water softener does not reduce TA. Only CH. Test your fill water for TA.

Fill water TA 100

 

[mknauss]

So you will constantly be adding acid to combat the rise in TA from the fill water. During the winter of course it will slow as you will not be using as much fill water.

Lowering your pool TA to 60 or 70 will most likely reduce the rate of rise. But you will need to add acid regularly.

 

[Jameshtx]

What pH level should I target for?
now that I’m going to do this on a regular basis

 

[Richard320]

What pH level should I target for?
now that I’m going to do this on a regular basis

When you add acid, target 7.2. That will lower the TA the most while still keeping pH in the safe zone.

pH will also bounce back up faster at the lower pH. It may take two days to go from 7.2 to 7.5 but 7.5 to 7.8 might take a week, Just examples, every pool is going to be different. Just be mentally prepared for that so that when it does rise quickly, you aren't suddenly puzzling over the sudden increased thirst for acid.

 

[Jameshtx]

Ok thanks

 

[Jameshtx]

So you will constantly be adding acid to combat the rise in TA from the fill water. During the winter of course it will slow as you will not be using as much fill water.

Lowering your pool TA to 60 or 70 will most likely reduce the rate of rise. But you will need to add acid regularly.

So if TA level rises, makes pH level rise as well right?

 

[mknauss]

As TA rises it drives the pH to rise faster. They do not go in lock step. Aeration (even ripples on the water from wind) is the primary driver of pH rise.

 

[bmoreswim]

With science on your side and some good fortune, there's a reasonable chance that next year will be easier due to your plaster having a year of life under it's belt. Ours rose similarly then slowed down. Since you don't have a salt water chlorine generator, that is on your side for less pH rise overall. If you do install one (they are great) that will also tend to increase your pH due to the outgassing of the chlorine gas bubbles created in the process (maybe not the 100% technical reason but pH will rise).

But each pool has it's own special personality - which is to say exactly how all of your elements interact with one another.

 

[spoonman]

I’m in the same boat with insane pH rise. My pool will jump .4 pH in a day. This means acid additions every other day. I don’t have any water features, just a plain rectangular pool. I purchased a Stenner a while back for dispensing liquid chlorine. Now I’m strongly considering converting it to acid as the pH is actually harder to manage than the chlorine. Other opinion is starting to float tricolor tabs to stave off the pH rise which I really don’t want to do. Reducing TA helps some but not enough in my pool. I suppose borates could be an option too. Curious to hear some feedback.

 

[mknauss]

Your fill water TA drives your continuous ph rise. Lower your TA to 60 and see if you can go longer between acid additions. It will also slow down as evaporation reduces.

 

[Oly]

Play with your numbers in Pool Math and watch to see the role pH plays in keeping your CSI in the zone. My pools happy place is a pH of 7.8. I too have a high TA of 140 in my fill water and over time with regular acid addition my pool water now has a TA of 90. If I drop my pH to 7.2 my CSI will be close to -.6, not good.

 

[spoonman]

Have already tried running 50-70TA. Slows pH rise a bit but still too much to deal with easily. That’s why I’m considering borates or Stenner to automate.

 

[Jameshtx]

Have already tried running 50-70TA. Slows pH rise a bit but still too much to deal with easily. That’s why I’m considering borates or Stenner to automate.

What’s Stenner?

 

[MyAZPool]

Have already tried running 50-70TA. Slows pH rise a bit but still too much to deal with easily. That’s why I’m considering borates or Stenner to automate.

Spoonman,
I just recently converted my pool to borate and couldn't be more pleased with the results.
pH has stabilized. But it appears that FC is climbing up just a bit I think. I'm keeping a daily eye on it, so I might have to reduce the chlorine output of the SWG slightly.
The water has a kind of silky feel to it and the pool certainly has a clarity increase and seems to "sparkle".
I'm amazed at the results.

 

[MyAZPool]

What’s Stenner?

Stenner pumps can be used to typically administer chlorine and/or muriatic acid (i.e. IntellipH).