Challenges testing using Taylor K-2006C and K-1766

[Newdude]

I'm gonna differ to @Newdude on this one. He figured out the actual effect on the longevity of the cell is not all that great.. but what you do get using liquid Cl is an immediate raise in FC..

Yup. If you need a now boost, LC is the way to go. If you are pre planning for a party, or forsee a weather event coming, use the cell all you want.... you bought it for a reason. Mine cost me a whopping 7 cents per hour used. 10 extra hours taken off the 10k hour lifespan would be impossible to tell, even if you did it 30 times.

 

[kellyfair]

I’m going to chime in a bit too. First, welcome! Second, that heavily overcast day that you talked about likely did not give you a true CYA reading. That test needs to be done outside on a sunny day (or if we want to cheat a little, inside with a bright light source). With the sun behind you, so that your shadow is directly in front of you, pour the solution into the tube up to the first line. Quickly glance down into the tube and if the black dot is visible, pour the solution to the next line. Repeat the quick glance, and if dot is still visible, pour to next line, and keep repeating until the door disappears at a glance. The line where that happens is your CYA.

Try to do the CYA test at consistent light levels each time. If it’s overcast, skip it.

I don’t bother running my SWG during a SLAM, and a SLAM is a multi step process, not one and done. The goal of SLAM is to test, raise FC to SLAM level (you’ll find that in Pool Math or in Pool School), test again after an interval, raise FC to SLAM level again, and repeat until water is clear, no visible algae, and you are losing .5 or less FC during Overnight Loss Test. The last time I SLAMmed I tested and re-dosed chlorine every 2-3 hours. The more frequently you can do (but give it at least an hour or two) the more quickly you will clear the pool.

I invite you to check out the link in my signature for how clear a TFP pool can be. Most folks who think their pool water has always been clear are shocked at just how much clearer it can get!

Again, welcome - we are glad you are here, and are happy to help!

 

[mguzzy]

I don’t bother running my SWG during a SLAM, and a SLAM is a multi step process, not one and done.

I'm going to chime in on Kelly's chime... I tell people not to run their SWG's during a SLAM because
1) it gives you a false representation of your Chlorine usage, since another source is making chlorine, AND it just doesn't make enough fast enough to do the job.
2) Make sure you DO NOT run it during the OCLT.. in that test you are trying to see if something is consuming the CL and if another source is creating FC, it invalidates the test.

 

[csconner]

All,

Thank you for all of the support, I've learned a ton in a short time frame...

I've paused my water blancing efforts.

I've been suspecting a leak as I have had to add to much water on what on a too frequent basis.

Based upon my learning here on TFP, It became clear I had a suction side leak as I was seeing air in the pump strainer basket, as I called out in my note above, I think I've identified a leak on a suction side coupling (one of multiple unnecessary couplings and 90 elbows) put in by the PB. Once I was able to read up on leaks here on TFP it became clear while I do in-fact have a leak on the suction side of the pump, it also became clear I'm not loosing water there!

So I did lots more reading here on TFP and now I suspect I have a leak on the pressure side. Ever since first open (last spring) I've had to add water 2-3 times per week and add 1"-2" each time, and it seemed to increase throughout the winter.. My internal story was this was ok it's just evaporation due to it being a fiberglass pool which must have more evaporation than other types (I was trying really hard to convince myself of this line of thinking ) haha...

I know this topic doesn't belong in this forum, so I'll open a new thread in the Pumps, Filters and Plumbing forum..

If it's ok, I'll reengage here once I address leak concerns.

Thanks again for all of the support, insights and learning..

Craig

 

[Dirk]

Relatively new user here, pool in the ground for one year,

If that means the pool was just built, then it should still be under warranty. Dump this back into the PB's lap and make him fix and find the leaks. If he used a sloppy plumber, or they were all in a hurry, then that's his problem. Do you remember if a plumbing pressure test was performed?

 

[csconner]

Pool was completed March 2020. Yes I plan to take it back to PB. My plan was to have some facts first.

In addition I’ve connected with another TFP user in my area that has had some concerns with same PB quality. So that just adds to my suspicions.
Thanks

PS. PB did the plumbing himself.

and yes he did a pressure test, city codes required it. I’ll look back I have pics of the test gauge.

 

[mguzzy]

I know this topic doesn't belong in this forum, so I'll open a new thread in the Pumps, Filters and Plumbing forum..

If it's ok, I'll reengage here once I address leak concerns.

Give us a link to your other thread, if you would be so kind.. So others following this thread can follow you in your travails.

 

[Dirk]

I was just reading in another thread how the pool building industry is in disarray just now. It's never been this busy, with everyone building COVID pools. So PB's are scrambling for subs, and maybe using some, well, less than seasoned workers, because that's all there is left. Or maybe doing work themselves that they would normally have someone more experienced do. Whatever it is, I hope it's something simple that they can find quick.

 

[csconner]

All, here is the link to my water leak post

Leaks, in pool/plumbing

Hello Fellow TFP’er Hope everyone in Boulder is safe, my thoughts are with those impacted yesterday. Ok, I have been hesitating writing this post but here we go: I have leaks in plumbing/pool in my 1+ year old IG FG pool. I believe I have leaks in both the suction side between the skimmer and...

www.troublefreepool.com

Thanks

Craig

 

[csconner]

Ok,

I’ve resumed my testing and water balancing efforts, here are today’s test results

FC - 12.5
CC - 0.0
pH - 7.8
TA - 70
CH - 90
CYA - 60
Salt - 3000
Temp - 62
Water clear

note: I had pump off for couple of days as part of my water loss testing, I added one 64oz bottle oh liquid chlorine on the day I re-enabled the pump. That was 2 days ago. I re-enabled the SWG, set to 50%. So quess that was to much combined with the LC. I’ve turned off the SWG will monitor FC level before I re-enable.

Questions:

1. how do I raise CH? I ask as I notice it’s extremely low
2. how to I determine what setting to run the SWG % ? Once levels come down.
3. I was going to add dry stabilizer per pool math, any reason not to?

 

[mguzzy]

This is my favorite TFP tool.. besides the Pool Math App

What Are My Ideal Pool Levels?

Use our tool to find ideal chemical levels for any swimming pool. Check TFP recommended levels on pH, free chlorine, cyanuric acid, and more.

www.troublefreepool.com

1. You raise it with Calcium Chloride.,, you can get it from Amazon or a pool store. Read this: Is Calcium Level Important for Fiberglass Pools.
2. There is no one setting. It depends on how long you run it for and what the seasonal FC demand is. In the heat of the summer you will run at a higher % typically. For me, I try to find an average runtime where my % is at 50%.. then I have wiggle room to turn it up or down depending on the conditions. cooler conditions, its lower around 30%.. in the middle of summer, with lots of swimmers I have it at 70%.. and every setting in between depending on my what my FC is testing at.
3. Go for it! This is the time of the season to start bringing the CYA levels up as the sun gets higher in the sky.

 

[csconner]

Thank you, reviewing info regarding CH, lists cobalt spotting, it that this? This appeared over the winter. It’s not flakey, you don’t feel anything when you rub your fingers across, brushing or magic erase has no affect.

 

[csconner]

Or is this Oxidation?

• Oxidation - Of fibreglass or painted surfaces which give a milky or chalky appearance. Oxidation is not just the result of high Chlorine levels but high Chlorine levels combines with a low pH

 

[mguzzy]

Don't know.. I have never owned a FG pool.. only plaster ones. But someone will know!

 

[csconner]

Mark, the links you provided are very informative regarding calcium. I’m using Pool Math App Now. I had reviewed the Pool Level article weeks ago, but it’s worth a second review.

thanks

 

[Flying Tivo]

Have you tested your CH fill water?

 

[csconner]

I have not tested fill water, I will and share results.

 

[csconner]

Hello again TFP folks,

Feels like I’m getting my arms around testing and early stages of adjusting levels, only because of all the great sharing and input from the forum!

Posted recent logs below. Gotta love Pool Math app!
Water is clear (see below)
I’m learning its “Small moves, Ellie. Small moves. “ to quote from the Jodie Foster movie Contact,

anyway

Feels like I’m beginning to understand there are a few key dials to twist, trick is to get the numbers in the range and maintain, hence, small moves, and one of my unseen challenges had been losing 2”-3“ water per week made it feel like I’m chasing my tail.

fyi.. I’m still waiting on PB, but have some peace of mind (perhaps too early to call it fixed but ) that dye testing of the returns and LEDs leads me to believe the LEDs are the sources of water loss. Still intend to pressure test of all pipe runs, including suction side leak and dye test the skimmer flange after the faceplate is removed.

Would value a few perspectives of my numbers from the veterans, especially FG owners and a Couple of questions:

1. What would I use to control pH if needed?
2. What would I use to control TC If needed?
3. I believe this is a bit of an advanced topic, but what is CSI?
4. Also, would value some input on the second pic showing close up of pool shell. Surface remains smooth and hard, nothing flakes or rubs off into the water.

PoolMath Logs

Thanks all,

Craig

 

[mknauss]

1. What would I use to control pH if needed?

Muriatic Acid. If you do not need to add very often, get the lower concentration.

2. What would I use to control TC If needed?

TC is not a value, it is the addition of FC and CC, which honestly, is useless.

3. I believe this is a bit of an advanced topic, but what is CSI?

CSI and LSI - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

With a SWCG, it is best to keep your CSI between -0.3 and 0. However, as it does not appear you have any cementatious materials in the water, you can have a lower CSI. Just keep pH in the 7's. The TA should resolve itself. CH is of no issue if under 350 ppm.

would value some input on the second pic showing close up of pool shell.

Hard to say. Have you tried some very fine grit wet sand paper?

 

[csconner]

Marty, thanks for the pointer to CSI.
I have not attempted any type of treatment or remediation. I noticed this upon initial opening last month, but been chasin‘ to many other challenges. Surface is smooth, up close it looks like it’s deeper into the gel coat, not on the surface.