You can re-use the seal. It should not leak. Surface prep is key, so make sure it is clean, and everything is straight and fully seated.
Century 2 speed motor stuttering when starting on high speed
- Thread starter kmerkel
- Start date
The replacement motor was scheduled to arrive tomorrow, but yesterday the package tracking info said it was going to arrive early so I disassembled the pump to have it ready ahead of time. Turns out the tracking info was a lie, so rather than have the pump down an extra day (or more) I figured I had nothing to lose by digging into the defective motor.
As best as I can figure, the gap between the run high speed contacts was just slightly too big, so if the motor didn't spin up fast enough, the governor, and by association the start/run contact arm, wouldn't move completely to its run position, but move just enough to break the starting circuit. Motor loses speed because neither circuit is engaged, start contact closes, motor accelerates, breaks start contact, rinse, repeat, chatter until conditions (motor speed, planetary alignment, whatever) allow the governor to move far enough to get the run circuit engaged.
A little tweak to the run contact to ever so slightly close the gap, and I now have a motor that starts on both speeds. Full disclosure; I'm not sure if it's "correct", as in, within manufacturer's spec, but it's working and worst case scenario if it goes down in a blaze of glory, I have another one on the way.
As for the "perfect" shaft seal installation, the metal collar was cockeyed on the impeller. Fixed that, and so far, so good.
Again, thanks to everyone for their insight and guidance, it was and is most appreciated!
As best as I can figure, the gap between the run high speed contacts was just slightly too big, so if the motor didn't spin up fast enough, the governor, and by association the start/run contact arm, wouldn't move completely to its run position, but move just enough to break the starting circuit. Motor loses speed because neither circuit is engaged, start contact closes, motor accelerates, breaks start contact, rinse, repeat, chatter until conditions (motor speed, planetary alignment, whatever) allow the governor to move far enough to get the run circuit engaged.
A little tweak to the run contact to ever so slightly close the gap, and I now have a motor that starts on both speeds. Full disclosure; I'm not sure if it's "correct", as in, within manufacturer's spec, but it's working and worst case scenario if it goes down in a blaze of glory, I have another one on the way.
As for the "perfect" shaft seal installation, the metal collar was cockeyed on the impeller. Fixed that, and so far, so good.
Again, thanks to everyone for their insight and guidance, it was and is most appreciated!
- Oct 25, 2015
- 5,227
- Pool Size
- 25000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
Here's something I do on all my new motors. Carefully remove the long skinny bolts that hold the motor case together and dip the threads in anti-seize. Do it one bolt at a time. This will make it much easier to replace the motor bearing in the future if needed. Most of the time at least one of the bolts will freeze into the front flange due to dissimilar metal corrosion. If you ever have an early seal failure and don't notice 'till it starts making noise this can save you the cost of a new motor.
Chris
Chris