Century 2 speed motor stuttering when starting on high speed

kmerkel

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Apr 28, 2018
93
Grand Rapids, MI
Pool Size
10000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
I'm waiting to hear back from Inyo on this, but I figured I'd post here too to increase the brain trust.

The pump in question. Just installed it last night, along with a new mechanical seal and the correct 3/4hp impeller.

Low speed works normally, but high speed stutters/chatters/hesitates for a few seconds on spin up before it "catches" and takes off like it should. It's wired correctly, and I don't think it's a power delivery issue since this is actually a downsize from a 1hp that was running fine.

It seems like the governor isn't properly handing off from the start to run circuits. I'm guessing this isn't normal and won't just resolve itself, unless there is a break-in period or procedure that I'm not aware of. Is there anything to check or adjust that won't void the warranty?

Here's a short video. Sorry about the abrupt cutoff, this was the first time it actually took off and that caught me off-guard.

 
No response back from Inyo yet.

The motor does have some kind of centrifugal switch, but no capacitor that I'm aware of. Would it help to get a video of the contacts as it's starting?
 
Post a pic of the data plate on the motor. I am curious if the motor has a cooling fan in the rear. Definitely sounds like something is loose and rattling around in the back.
 
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The motor type is SPM.

Type: This is a code for the electrical design of the motor. For example, A. O. Smith uses “CX” to identify its PSC switchless design. Other codes are “CS” for capacitor start; “SP” for split phase and “UAK” for capacitor start/capacitor run.

Split Phase. This type of single-phase motor is used extensively in spa and jetted tubs and above ground pool applications.

Some are used on pumps on the lower end of the in ground pool market. This design has a start winding and a start switch, but no capacitors.
 

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At first I thought I wired it wrong, too, but it all checks out.

Voltage is good, over 110V when it's chattering and right at 110V once it's actually up to speed on high. Just for sake of argument, I doubled up the conductors from the breaker panel with a spare wire to rule out brief voltage drops that my meter couldn't detect, but that didn't make a difference.
 
Yep, low speed works perfectly.

The switch came separately with the new motor, and the cord was reused from the old motor. The hot is connected to the open spade on the switch, I just had it pulled off to get a better angle.

IMG_20200422_192347.jpg IMG_20200425_135746.jpg
 
Sounds like a governor issue to me. Probably a spring popped off. Since it is new, I would get a warranty claim.
 
Update: it took about a week and two support cases but they approved a replacement motor under warranty. I'll probably take the defective one apart as a postmortem to see if I can figure out what happened.

Slightly off-topic question, is the mechanical seal single use only? Should I replace it again with the next pump, or is it OK to reuse since it's basically brand new? Also, do they take time to seat in? It looks like there is some seepage from the new seal even though I thought I did the installation perfectly.

Thanks again for everyone's help!
 

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