Central, Tx - Deck is in! Progress continues

[tjk65]

Ok, here is our proposed contract and bid. The contract was not edited correctly. I had the UV and pressure cleaner removed and added SWG system. I asked questions today and ledge is at 6" depth and steps at 12". I am thinking this needs to be altered. We are older, have three teenagers and elderly parents that will also enjoy the pool and want ease of going down stairs. What heights should we have? Also, the builder said they were having trouble getting Hayward right now and may switch to Pentair. So, I could not get equip models. Should I push for Pentair? Or just make sure all equip is one brand? I was worried that they only put a 2HP variable speed (main circulation), but they also have 1 1/2 which I assume is for the features, 4hp blower, 525 cartridge filter, 4000BTU Heater, PS8 wireless controller. They said it would be so I could do everything independently or together. They say pool perimeter is 98, 16x32, 14965 gal, 3.5ft to 6 ft deep, 24 perimeter spa, we are thinking of having the shallow end made a bit smaller and get to around 90 perimeter to lower price. It has auto fill and overflow. Anything thing I missed or should question?

 

[HermanTX]

Hi fellow Texan, Thanks for sharing and welcome to TFP. It is a very nice design.
Either Hayward or Pentair are major manufacturers but suggest that you try to use automation, pump, heater, etc. from all same manufacturer as that generally works best for integration.
Not sure what the smaller pump is for - suggest you confirm that with PB. It is showing 6 main drains - 2 for pool, 2 for spa and the assumption is 2 for water feature which would go to that smaller pump. Need confirmation of that.
Great that you have large ID plumbing and independent lines for suction as well as returns. This provides maximum control over circulation .

The trade off on step heights is that it extends the pool steps farther into the pool. Mine are 6", 12" and 12" which appears to be what they have set up for you. We do not find it too bad but best you be happy for longer term. You can go to 9" but that will most likely add another step and extend into pool area. Maybe discuss that with PB for other ideas. Having a 6" sun shelf is about right, some have gone to 9" but I think that is opposite of what you are thinking.

Keep us posted on your progress.

Have you read the following?
Construction Tips & Best Practices
Construction Best Practices - Further Reading

How to Pick a Pool Builder
How to Pick a Pool Builder - Trouble Free Pool

How to Select Pool Equipment
How to select pool equipment - Further Reading

 

[Turbo1Ton]

Very nice design. A couple of things I would consider. You mention elderly parents. Make sure you are thinking about a handrail for entering and exiting the pool. If you do it now, you can get one that can be removed, in the event you don't want/need to use it. That is one thing I wish I had done, since I won't be able to do it again until I have the pool replastered and the decking redone.

On the lighting, you may need a couple more. It doesn't say which LED light for the pool, so don't know the light output, but I have 3 pentair globrites in mine, and wouldn't want less. Keep the lights in the house side of the pool, so there is no glare staring back at you when looking at the pool from the house.

Would also consider doing an apron all the way around the pool, just for accessibility, or at least around the spa. Otherwise everyone will be getting in and out at that one spot. Might be awkward with a full tub.

--Jeff

 

[tjk65]

Very nice design. A couple of things I would consider. You mention elderly parents. Make sure you are thinking about a handrail for entering and exiting the pool. If you do it now, you can get one that can be removed, in the event you don't want/need to use it. That is one thing I wish I had done, since I won't be able to do it again until I have the pool replastered and the decking redone.

On the lighting, you may need a couple more. It doesn't say which LED light for the pool, so don't know the light output, but I have 3 pentair globrites in mine, and wouldn't want less. Keep the lights in the house side of the pool, so there is no glare staring back at you when looking at the pool from the house.

Would also consider doing an apron all the way around the pool, just for accessibility, or at least around the spa. Otherwise everyone will be getting in and out at that one spot. Might be awkward with a full tub.

--Jeff

Great ideas! Thanks so much for the input. Meeting with the PB today and will inquire on both. Had not even thought of those. Thanks!!

 

[tjk65]

Hi fellow Texan, Thanks for sharing and welcome to TFP. It is a very nice design.
Either Hayward or Pentair are major manufacturers but suggest that you try to use automation, pump, heater, etc. from all same manufacturer as that generally works best for integration.
Not sure what the smaller pump is for - suggest you confirm that with PB. It is showing 6 main drains - 2 for pool, 2 for spa and the assumption is 2 for water feature which would go to that smaller pump. Need confirmation of that.
Great that you have large ID plumbing and independent lines for suction as well as returns. This provides maximum control over circulation .

The trade off on step heights is that it extends the pool steps farther into the pool. Mine are 6", 12" and 12" which appears to be what they have set up for you. We do not find it too bad but best you be happy for longer term. You can go to 9" but that will most likely add another step and extend into pool area. Maybe discuss that with PB for other ideas. Having a 6" sun shelf is about right, some have gone to 9" but I think that is opposite of what you are thinking.

Keep us posted on your progress.

Have you read the following?
Construction Tips & Best Practices
Construction Best Practices - Further Reading

How to Pick a Pool Builder
How to Pick a Pool Builder - Trouble Free Pool

How to Select Pool Equipment
How to select pool equipment - Further Reading

Thanks! Meeting with PB today and will come back with response on second pump.

 

[tjk65]

Yeah, we are ready to get started! Excavation to start next week. Here is our info that was submitted for permits. Can you review plumbing and electrical and let me know of any concerns or questions I should ask?

 

[JJ_Tex]

I see a booster pump for a pressure cleaner, and an automatic chlorinator. I thought you changed those to go with a robot and SWG?

 

[HermanTX]

One point I noticed is that you have 2 skimmers but they have plumbed them in series. It would be best if you have each independently plumbed back to the equipment pad. This provides you better control. so you would have 4 pipes for suction at the equipment pad - 1 each skimmer, 1 main pool drain and 1 spa drain. Ensure you have a valve on each skimmer line as well at the pad.

Please note that the side drains (denoted as Wall Drains) are your suction for your water features only - which is great that you have that as an independent circulation system.

As noted by @JJ_Tex you do not need pressure pump for cleaner if you are going with robot. Nor the chlorinator unless you want that as a back up - some people have kept it as it is only $100. However you can delete it and just use a floater for your pucks in the pool. That is what I have.

Edit
I went back and read the original specs and they specifically stated that your return lines (to the pool) and your skimmers (suction) would be independent lines however the newest drawing shows that not only the skimmers are set up in series on 1 line but also all of your returns are on 1 line. If you feel compelled, you may want to challenge why they state 1 thing but show another. The drawings is what the subcontractors will use to put in the lines.

Edit
I am not sure it was every confirmed that you were going to go with a Salt system (SWG) or stay with chlorine (pucks or liquid). The Chlorinator is required if you use chlorine pucks but not needed if you use a SWG.

 

[Turbo1Ton]

I will second, having them separate the skimmers and returns into individual lines, especially since the proposal stated that. I would also suggest making the equipment pad as large as you possibly can. Mine is roughly 4' x 8' and I have roughly the same amount of equipment as you, and I would love to have several feet in each direction, larger. Would make it easier to maneuver when working on anything.

--Jeff

 

[tjk65]

I see a booster pump for a pressure cleaner, and an automatic chlorinator. I thought you changed those to go with a robot and SWG?

I see a booster pump for a pressure cleaner, and an automatic chlorinator. I thought you changed those to go with a robot and SWG?

They were to replace both of those, you are correct.

 

[tjk65]

Ok great feedback, thank you! I will pull out where they indicated in the original specs and they specifically stated that the return lines (to the pool) and skimmers (suction) would be independent lines, but drawings are not. Good catch!

 

[tjk65]

Well let the fun begin. Excavation started yesterday. And of course, hit solid rock at 2ft.

 

[Stoopalini]

Awesome! Exciting times ahead

Luckily, that rock they hit is really easy to excavate. It should just break apart and not cause any significant trouble for them.

 

[tjk65]

Well 1 week of pounding and six dump trucks at least of rocks, we made it though. Ready to see it form now with steel.

 

[Gladius Nova]

Well let the fun begin. Excavation started yesterday. And of course, hit solid rock at 2ft.

Did they charge you "extra" for hitting rock?

 

[tjk65]

Nope figured in as part of the original estimate. I found that builders in Austin area plan on hitting rock.

 

[tjk65]

Well after a long wait 4 weeks+, finally got our gunite. Hopefully things will pick-up now.

 

[Stoopalini]

Looks good! A NYE polar bear swim in the plans?? LOL!

 

[tjk65]

We are getting close! So now, if only the if the builder was excited as us and get moving. Waiting on equipment order

 

[Stoopalini]

Looking great! Smart move extending the decking around the back to the feature wall.

When you go to fill up the pool, check your water meter before you start. Then try to limit water usage in the house while it's being filled, and check the meter again when it finishes. This way, you can get an exact measurement of the volume.

Having an exact volume is very helpful for Poolmath, and when calculating chemical amounts to add. This will be the only time you'll be able to get an exact volume ... unless you drain and refill in the future; so it's worth the bit of inconvenience to limit water usage during filling.