Can't seem to raise pH

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D

driving-me-nuts

0
Jul 31, 2017
10
Rio Rancho, NM
Pool water had been clear. Eyes burning from swimming and checked pH. Read 6.8 and took sample to pool store to verify. Pool store said to add 9# of soda ash. Added about 2# every 2 hours, no change to pH.
Went out to Lowes and picked up 8# of Chlorox sodium carbonate and added again at a rate of 2# every 2 hours. No change to pH.
Picked up some Arm and Hammer and added 2 cups and no change to pH.
Pool started to become cloudy. TA read 160 ppm.

I bought 12 gallons of 10% sodium hypochlorite. Directions said to add 2 gallons to super chlorinate 20,000 gallons. I added 2 gallons every 2 hours and never reached a shock level. FC read 0.5 ppm.

I read an article that I could raise the pH by aerating the pool. I tried using and airstone tied to a compressor and ran it for 8 hours, no change to pH.

I added 4# of monopersulfate based shock. Checked FC up to 3ppm, TC up to 4ppm. 4 hours later FC down to 0.5ppm and TC at 3 ppm.

I added a Remington Sun Shock ionizer to try and keep algae in check.

I bought a K-2006 test kit and a Aquapro water tester to measure TDS. These are the current measurements:
FC - 0.5ppm
CC - 3ppm
pH < 7.0 , probably still reads 6.8
TA - 160ppm
Calcium Hardness I couldn't get a good reading, may have seen a change at 7 drops, but no appreciable difference at 50 drops
CNA was much greater than 100ppm
TDS - 3503
Temp 88.1 DegF

I don't know what to do next. The pool is driving-me-nuts!
 
How are you chlorinating?

That MPS is why your CC is high ... this is never needed.

We do not care about TDS ... it is just the sum of things that matter individually (salt, CYA, etc)

If your CYA is >100ppm, then replacing water is really the first step that is needed.
 
Not if your CYA is greater than 100. Only way to reduce it is to drain.

If your SWCG cannot keep up (run it at 100% if you need to) use bleach to make up. The tabs are raising your CYA even further.

- - - Updated - - -

What is your SWCG? Add it to your signature if you could.

You have had algae so you need to SLAM -- see Pool School.

- - - Updated - - -

Pull the ionizer thing too - it is adding metals to your water. They will stain eventually. Cannot get rid of them without draining.
 
Thanks, I added the model to the signature. Pentair IntelliChlor IC20. Does the high level CNA somehow inhibit the pH? The base demand test took 28 drops.
I looked at the SLAM process, how much 10% sodium hypochlorite should I add? I added 12 gallons; 2 gallons every 2 hours.
 
I assume you mean CYA, not CNA? No, it does nothing to pH once in your water.

Have you done a dilute CYA test to determine how far above 100 you are. See step 8 in Pool School - CYA

You will most likely need to drain some of your pool and refill with fresh water. This being summer you need to take some precautions when you do that. So once you have a final CYA reading we can discuss that.

Once that is done we can address the pH and FC issue.

Take care.
 
Well, it would be best to get that much lower.

You have a gunite pool. As you are in New Mexico I do not think you have a shallow water table, correct? If not, then your concern is keeping the plaster wet as the intense summer sun and heat can damage your plaster.

Contemplate the logistics of draining and refilling. Do you have a sump pump? Are there restrictions on were you put the drained water? Can you refill quickly?

Let us know -- good luck.
 
Water table is down about 200'. I'll have to find out about restrictions on the drained water. The fill will be slow with a garden hose. I had it originally filled with a water truck, but that was about $2000, or so the builder said. I will probably wait another month until the temperature drops. Should this be a complete drain?
 
You have a SWCG and you have not said for sure you have algae. Do you? Have you removed the ionizer thing? Please do.

I would drain at least 75%. Should get your CYA into the 50 range if your diluted test is correct. You can SLAM at that level and it gives your SWCG some protection when you start it again.

Take care.
 

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FYI the IC20 is WAY undersized for your pool size. It would not surprise me if you need to run at 100% for close to 24 hours a day to maintain enough FC (and that is assuming your water starts off as clean and sanitized).

That CYA needs to get down to at least 80ppm (high range for a SWG pool).

The CYA should not impact the pH test.

What did your CH test do?
 
Not really deep blue. Changes from a light pink to light blue usually.

All tests you count drops until the last drop causes no further color change and then do not count the last drop.
 
driving-me-nuts said:
... may have to see what the pool store comes up with...
Click to expand...

Not the pool store! There's no way they can do better than you once you get the testing down.

Your focus really needs to shift to keeping up the FC levels. I know jblizzle said this already, but that ic20 is always going to require supplementation with bleach in a pool that size. I've been running my ic40 at 80% from 09:00-19:30 just to keep up with the long hot days lately. Make sure to review the FC/CYA chart.
 
jblizzle: For CH at the 10ml mark I added 23 drops so I'm at about 575ppm.

Akathisia: So I have become my own worst enemy. I'll increase run time to 10 hours, I've only been running it for 7 hours. I also didn't realize I needed to do maintenance on the SWCG. I put in 5 years ago when the pool was built, and I haven't taken out to clean it. I'm sure that will be a mess.
 
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