Can't get the PH down

Cheryl B

Member
May 24, 2019
14
Spring, Texas
I am totally stumped trying to get my new fill PH under control, and have been working at it for almost 2 weeks.
My TA started at 130, with a PH of over 8.2. My CYA is now 37, and CH is now 150.
So, using the method of dropping the PH and TA with muriatic acid, it wasn't hard to drop the TA to 40. But my PH is still over 8.2.
Not sure what my next step should be, or if I'm doing something wrong. This is the second fresh fill using this method, and with the first it settled at about 7.6 or 7.8 with a TA of 41.
 
Interesting....

How much are you adding to get our pH down and to what pH level are you trying to get to. I read somewhere here that if you run other water features in you pool (e.g. waterfalls or bubblers) it could raise your pH. I'll let an expert chime in here shortly.
 
This is a fiberglass hot tub, and all the testing is my own. I have trouble doing the cya accurately, so determined the amount by the "effects of adding" part of the pool math app.
This morning, I retested. Ca - 175 FC - 5 TA - 40 PH - darker than 8.0. As a reminder, my TA started at 130. I have probably added about 14 oz total of 31% muriatic acid.
 
Wow.. I haven't added 14 oz since after the startup in my gunite pool! (The startup guy added a full gallon which was too much, but came up fast with the brushing we had to do.) I would seriously consider an electronic pH meter. I will step on some toes here but the Taylor pH test sucks, the electronic meter is the best but even another brand of titration test seems to work better. I kinda feel the same way about the CYA test in the kit too as I literally have strips that seem to work just as well. The Taylor pH works but it's about +/-0.15 accuracy which I don't think is great on something that is a logarithmic scale. The other tests are superior except for TA where the competition works differently but with exactly the same results.

In a fiberglass tub you really are only concerned about FC/CC and pH/TA. I am really concerned about your adding that much muriatic acid. When I dose 31% muriatic, I do it a teaspoon at a time for my 245 gallon tub. Literally 2 tsps (0.3 fluid ounces more or less) will drop pH by 0.2 in that tub... so in yours it would take a tablespoon to do that, since it is twice as large (or about 0.6 fl oz). I actually take a 64 oz gas station drink cup, fill it up with RO water and put in a teaspoon at a time to do adjustments, so I don't risk marring anything... I also cut my liquid chlorine the same way in the tub to avoid bleach spots.

So, in theory anyway, in a 425 gallon tub, 14 fl oz will lower TA by 129 and pH by 7.9. I don't think your fill water could be that hard, even in Texas.

Go and buy an electronic pH meter, DISTILLED water and packs of the buffered standards for the meter. Most buffered standards are now 6.86 at 25C and 4.00 at 25C. Adjust your meter initially with both standards, and then any time you take a reading (once a day if needed) adjust the meter to the 6.86 pH standard. If you do this your pH accuracy will be about +/-0.05 on that meter. But you really should calibrate every time you use it.

DO NOT ADD CHLORINE FIRST. It will show a false very high pH reading for at least an hour after adding chlorine in a tub "that small" (compared to a pool). Do all of your water testing before adding any chemicals. You can add acid and recheck after maybe 10 minutes with the pump circulating in a tub, but never do this with chlorine.

I think you are actually looking at a very acidic hot tub now, and something has been wrong with your testing. Be prepared to refill.
 
OK, so I did get an electronic PH reader, and it read 8.3
Went to the pool store to have water retested, and they confirmed 8.2 but freaked out with my low alkalinity of 39.
They say my cya is only 5, but I know that is notoriously inaccurate and based on the pool math should be about 37. Now what?
 
It is chemically very difficult to have a high pH and a low TA. Was the TA the pool store gave you an 'adjusted' TA? Please use your own test kit to test your water chemistry.
 

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Heat and aeration drive up the pH. As long as the CSI isn't higher than +0.2, I would not be particularly concerned about the pH.

I would not have added any calcium to the tub until the pH and TA were stable and then only enough calcium to get to a CSI of about -0.2.

You probably didn't need to add any calcium at all.
 
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OK, so I did get an electronic PH reader, and it read 8.3
Went to the pool store to have water retested, and they confirmed 8.2 but freaked out with my low alkalinity of 39.
They say my cya is only 5, but I know that is notoriously inaccurate and based on the pool math should be about 37. Now what?
I would stay away from pool store test results all together. Test your pool using your own test kit. That way, you don’t get conflicting idea of what your true pool chemistry is. Your own testing will be give you accuracy results of your pool chemistry.
 
My testing shows the PH to be 8.3, and the alkalinity to be 40. Water is perfectly clear. I'm starting to think that I've given the muriatic acid enough of a chance (it did lower the TA from 130 to 40) and that I should try some PH down, which is what I used before I found this forum.
 
My testing shows the PH to be 8.3, and the alkalinity to be 40. Water is perfectly clear. I'm starting to think that I've given the muriatic acid enough of a chance (it did lower the TA from 130 to 40) and that I should try some PH down, which is what I used before I found this forum.

You keep adding MA until your pH gets down where you want it. If it’s 8.3 you haven’t added enough. You may have to add every day. PH doesn’t usually stay put.
 
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