Can You Help Me?
- Thread starter mimidjets
- Start date
- Jun 23, 2012
- 1,053
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Liquid Chlorine
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Well, you might have to sit tight just a little bit. There are experts here... but they probably aren't sitting in front of their computer every minute. Someone will be along in a day or two. I don't think we'll have a freeze before then. :lol:
In your location it's fine to leave it open and keep it chlorinated. However, if you decide not to close it you should be aware that you'll have to maintain it just like you're doing now only it won't take as much chlorine. You'll still have to make sure to keep the skimmer basket clean and the other regular maintenance. The only other thing you'll have to do is be sure to run the pump whenever it's going to be below freezing.
Opening my green pool!
I drained my pool halfway last fall and took my pumps off and stored them. Right now it is nice and swampy green. Can you tell me what to do first to prepare it for opening this spring?
I drained my pool halfway last fall and took my pumps off and stored them. Right now it is nice and swampy green. Can you tell me what to do first to prepare it for opening this spring?
What kind of pool cleaner is best for my pool and filter system? I have been looking at the Pool Rover T Jr. Robotic. Kind of pricey though!
Ok, I am getting ready to re-open my pool for the summer. Right now it's green with leaves in it. Please tell me if I am doing the right thing. My plan is to go ahead and add more water to fill it the rest of the way. (I had drained it below my in and out takes) I will then connect the hoses back and turn on the main filter. I won't need the salt water pump at this time. First I will add my bleach, probably about 6 gallons if my memory is correct. Once all of the mess has settled to the bottom I will put "Wanda the Whale" in to clean it all up. Once it's all clean should I test it then add my salt and turn on my salt pump. Or should I do the salt step first then test? I want to do it right from the beginning so I won't have a hard time getting the pool open.
I think you're still misunderstanding a lot here. Have you read through pool school yet? You're going to have to shock your pool, and it's a more involved process than what you posted above.
As was stated above, you need to go through the shock process as described in Pool School. This involves using accurate testing and the poolcalculator to calculate how much bleach to add ... as often as every hour when you start if possible.
Really what you need to do is. Fill the pool. Hook up the equipment (don't worry about the SWG until after the shock process is complete). Scoop all the leaves out. Circulate the pool at least an hour and then do a full set of tests to see what should be adjusted first.
Posted from my Droid with Tapatalk ... sorry if my response is short
Really what you need to do is. Fill the pool. Hook up the equipment (don't worry about the SWG until after the shock process is complete). Scoop all the leaves out. Circulate the pool at least an hour and then do a full set of tests to see what should be adjusted first.
Posted from my Droid with Tapatalk ... sorry if my response is short
Thank you jblizzle, for your understanding response. I am a newbie at this. This is my first year to RE-open. I first opened last summer and messed up because I failed to put in enough salt and I didn't run my SWG long enough to keep the FC level up. I ended up with a GREEN mess. That's when I found this forum and was put on the right track. You guys are a tremendous help. My problem is understanding the Pool Calculator so please bear with me on that part. I just want to do things right the first time this year as I re-open my pool. Here is where I stand right now:
My water level is just below my skimmer outake. I am still adding water to fill it.
My pump is hooked up but not running yet.
Water is green and yucky. (I did not totally drain from last summer)
Here is what I am understanding that I need to do from here:
Once the pool is full, get the leaves out and turn on the pump to run for 24 hours
Test the water see what the numbers are
Here's where I get stuck! Go to the pool calculator and figure how much bleach to use to shock it. :?
I don't mean to be a bother, but you guys always give great advice so that's why I am asking for help. I learn by doing! Not so much by reading! Sorry....
My water level is just below my skimmer outake. I am still adding water to fill it.
My pump is hooked up but not running yet.
Water is green and yucky. (I did not totally drain from last summer)
Here is what I am understanding that I need to do from here:
Once the pool is full, get the leaves out and turn on the pump to run for 24 hours
Test the water see what the numbers are
Here's where I get stuck! Go to the pool calculator and figure how much bleach to use to shock it. :?
I don't mean to be a bother, but you guys always give great advice so that's why I am asking for help. I learn by doing! Not so much by reading! Sorry....
You have a good plan. Once you get your current cya level you can use that in the poolcalculator.com to calculate your shock FC level. If it is below 30 ppm cya, then raise it up to that for the shock process.
Read: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-school/pool_calculator. If you are still confused post back.mimidjets said:
Ok, this is for linen or who ever wants to chime in on our previous posts. I have completed filling my pool. It's green. I have the pump running. No SWG at this time. i have NOT added bleach yet....have tested and here are the numbers: Not 100% about it but best I could tell my salt level is 5.2; FCC 0; PH 8.2; TA 150; CYA 70 and TH is 60. I know I need to enter these numbers into the pool calculator. Do I do that next?
Yes enter the info into the left column of the poolcalculator. Make sure to set your pool size at the top and your goals at the bottom.
You need to lower your pH and then start the shock process.
Do you still just have the HTH test kit? You will not really be able to perform the shock process without a FAS-DPD chlorine test kit ... reason being is with a CYA of 70ppm (which is good for the SWG), your FC shock level is 28ppm according to Pool School ... so you have to be able to measure that high and I am pretty sure your kit only goes up to 5ppm.
You need to lower your pH and then start the shock process.
Do you still just have the HTH test kit? You will not really be able to perform the shock process without a FAS-DPD chlorine test kit ... reason being is with a CYA of 70ppm (which is good for the SWG), your FC shock level is 28ppm according to Pool School ... so you have to be able to measure that high and I am pretty sure your kit only goes up to 5ppm.
I have read the pool school instructions on getting my pool ready to open. I just have a few questions. This is my second year to have my pool, so I am still a newbie. I couldn't keep the cover on during the winter because it kept falling in the pool, so we just took it off. I did drain it half way. I recently got all of the leaves out of it, filled it up and put bleach in it because it was swampy green. I have been running my pump off and on for several hours at a time. The water has gone from swampy green to more of an aqua milky green. You cannot see the bottom of the pool, but I know there is algae at the bottom because I tried vacuuming it from my deck and I could see it being sucked up the hoses. What do I need to do at this point. Is it safe to get in the pool to completely vacuum it out? I realize I need to be running my pump 24/7. So by running the pump and vacuuming get the water back to clear?
Keep reading and learning:
Defeating Algae
Turning Your Green Swamp Back into a Sparkling Oasis
Shocking Your Pool
Follow the process, run the pump 24/7, clean the filter when the pressure goes up 20-25% of the clean pressure, vacuum all you want.
Defeating Algae
Turning Your Green Swamp Back into a Sparkling Oasis
Shocking Your Pool
Follow the process, run the pump 24/7, clean the filter when the pressure goes up 20-25% of the clean pressure, vacuum all you want.
So following this process I should see clear water after vacuuming and running my pump. This is alot of work! Isn't it? I think next year I will either purchase a better cover or just drain it for the winter. It's hard to vacuum it without getting in it and wow it's cold!! 
mimidjets said:
I assume you mean the shocking process? If yes, then you generally should see progress every day until you pass the 3 end of shocking criteria (also in my sig).mimidjets said:
As for the vacuuming, you can do that, but sometimes it is hard to see down in a cloudy pool. More importantly imo, brushing the pool surfaces usually works well since it stirs of the algae and lets the high levels of chlorine get at it and also allows some to be moved to the filter through the skimmer. That way you won't have to get in for now and that let's your filter do it's job. Don't forget to backwash the filter when ever the pressure goes up 25% from the clean filter pressure.
I have to get in to brush and move the algae around. I can't reach it in the middle of the pool if I don't get in. Am I supposed to be running my SWG now or wait until my water is clear? When looking at the Chlorine/CYA chart it shows target numbers for SWG pools as well as NON SWG pools. Mine is an SWG pool I just don't have it turned on right now. I thought I was supposed to clear it all up first. I am really confused. I just want to get it opened the right way. Maybe I need to start over!
Here is where I am right now:
I have put two large bottles of bleach in the pool at this point. My pump is running 24/7. My water has gone from swampy dark green to aqua green with algae at the bottom. I can't see the bottom but I know it's there because it floats to the top when stirred up. Plus my vacuum filter is covered in it. I keep cleaning out the filter. I have vacuumed the outer edges that I can reach without getting in the pool. The skimmer is catching all of the yuck that rises to the top from that. I have not tested the water at this point. I know I should be and will do that this afternoon after work. If I do that today and post the readings, can you help me the rest of the way? The shock process tells me to look at the CYA level for finding the corresponding FC shock level. As I stated above, my SWG is not on right now so do I use the NON SWG numbers or the SWG numbers for this? It says to bring the FC to shock level. Is that 3 or 5 for an SWG? :? :?
Here is where I am right now:
I have put two large bottles of bleach in the pool at this point. My pump is running 24/7. My water has gone from swampy dark green to aqua green with algae at the bottom. I can't see the bottom but I know it's there because it floats to the top when stirred up. Plus my vacuum filter is covered in it. I keep cleaning out the filter. I have vacuumed the outer edges that I can reach without getting in the pool. The skimmer is catching all of the yuck that rises to the top from that. I have not tested the water at this point. I know I should be and will do that this afternoon after work. If I do that today and post the readings, can you help me the rest of the way? The shock process tells me to look at the CYA level for finding the corresponding FC shock level. As I stated above, my SWG is not on right now so do I use the NON SWG numbers or the SWG numbers for this? It says to bring the FC to shock level. Is that 3 or 5 for an SWG? :? :?