can someone help me figure out how to get my cleaner to access the whole pool without getting stuck?

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crackers8199

Bronze Supporter
Jun 5, 2014
329
Lake Elsinore, CA
originally, i had five hose sections on this and the line kept getting tangled every other day or so.

i added three floats and a sixth section of hose, but it still wouldn't reach the far shallow end.

added a seventh section of hose and another float, but it still keeps getting stuck in the deep end (and also the floats must not be spaced right, because it's still getting slightly tangled at times - you can see this in the pics).

can anyone suggest exactly what i need to do in order to make this thing reach both ends of the pool regularly and stop getting tangled? i think seven sections is the right length, but i obviously need help in where to put the floats and/or how many i need. i have four on there now, and can order more if i need to, but i'm stumped on how to move forward with this at the moment.

https://imgur.com/a/OjO16Dc
 

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crackers8199 said:
originally, i had five hose sections on this and the line kept getting tangled every other day or so.

i added three floats and a sixth section of hose, but it still wouldn't reach the far shallow end.

added a seventh section of hose and another float, but it still keeps getting stuck in the deep end (and also the floats must not be spaced right, because it's still getting slightly tangled at times - you can see this in the pics).

can anyone suggest exactly what i need to do in order to make this thing reach both ends of the pool regularly and stop getting tangled? i think seven sections is the right length, but i obviously need help in where to put the floats and/or how many i need. i have four on there now, and can order more if i need to, but i'm stumped on how to move forward with this at the moment.

https://imgur.com/a/OjO16Dc
Click to expand...
Turn off the waterfall, it creates a "suction" current that can pull the hose in that direction. Change the direction of the return fitting at the middle of the pool to face the shallow end, it looks like it is facing straight to the other side of the pool and that current can block the hose. Anything that strongly pushes the hose, which you actually made lighter with floats, will not allow the cleaner into an area.
 
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1poolman1 said:
Turn off the waterfall, it creates a "suction" current that can pull the hose in that direction. Change the direction of the return fitting at the middle of the pool to face the shallow end, it looks like it is facing straight to the other side of the pool and that current can block the hose. Anything that strongly pushes the hose, which you actually made lighter with floats, will not allow the cleaner into an area.
Click to expand...

i have the returns pointed to try to get the surface as clean as possible...what's the best way to balance the two? i only have three returns...the one you can see there above the baja step in the second picture, one at the shallow end pretty much directly across (lengthwise) from the waterfall, and one pretty much directly across from the skimmer.

also, i have to keep the waterfall on because i don't have any automation yet (working on it)...if i turn that off, the spa gets no chlorine from the SWG. once i get automation set up i can turn the waterfall off and just run spa mode for a few hours and pool mode for a few hours, but right now i have no choice but to leave the waterfall on.

TinFoilHat said:
Resizing them and putting in your post allows those of us who have nanny IT depts to see them too.
Click to expand...

fair enough, hadn't thought of that. done.
 
crackers8199 said:
i have the returns pointed to try to get the surface as clean as possible...what's the best way to balance the two? i only have three returns...the one you can see there above the baja step in the second picture, one at the shallow end pretty much directly across (lengthwise) from the waterfall, and one pretty much directly across from the skimmer.

also, i have to keep the waterfall on because i don't have any automation yet (working on it)...if i turn that off, the spa gets no chlorine from the SWG. once i get automation set up i can turn the waterfall off and just run spa mode for a few hours and pool mode for a few hours, but right now i have no choice but to leave the waterfall on.



fair enough, hadn't thought of that. done.
Click to expand...
Couldn't see it in the picture, but if the waterfall is actually the spa overflow, change the position of the valve so that not so much water is filling the spa. The fall will be less and won't have as much an effect on the cleaner hose. It will be fine with the SWG.
If you have a return pushing water toward the waterfall/spa, it is also pushing the cleaner's hose that direction and a suction cleaner can seldom overcome that kind of current. Then they get stuck or can't get into an area.
 
1poolman1 said:
Couldn't see it in the picture, but if the waterfall is actually the spa overflow, change the position of the valve so that not so much water is filling the spa. The fall will be less and won't have as much an effect on the cleaner hose. It will be fine with the SWG.
If you have a return pushing water toward the waterfall/spa, it is also pushing the cleaner's hose that direction and a suction cleaner can seldom overcome that kind of current. Then they get stuck or can't get into an area.
Click to expand...

that might be a solution, but it has led to a bigger problem in that now when i turned the valve to limit the water to the spa, the valve is now leaking. is there an easy way to repair this thing? i can't afford a major repair or cost to change it out at the moment...
 

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Try posting a photo of the valve and the location of the leak. There are rebuild kits that include seals and O-rings that are relatively cheap. Make sure you check the valve for cracks which may be a more costly repair.
 
crackers8199 said:
great. how expensive and how difficult is that? i am all for doing stuff myself where i can, but i have no PVC experience.
Click to expand...
PVC work isn't that difficult. The repair can be done but it will require a few cuts, a few fittings, a new valve, and the appropriate tools. Who normally does your home repairs for you? A handyman should be able to do some basic plumbing. How about a landscaper that does irrigation? Any experienced friends that can help?

It looks like most of your plumbing is 2" and the small section where the ball valve is 1.5". Is that correct?

Measure the distance between these two fittings (the tee and elbow) where the ball valve is. We just need to confirm you have enough room for a Jandy diverter valve.

1747143147502.png
 
Rancho Cost-a-Lotta said:
PVC work isn't that difficult. The repair can be done but it will require a few cuts, a few fittings, a new valve, and the appropriate tools. Who normally does your home repairs for you? A handyman should be able to do some basic plumbing. How about a landscaper that does irrigation? Any experienced friends that can help?

It looks like most of your plumbing is 2" and the small section where the ball valve is 1.5". Is that correct?

Measure the distance between these two fittings (the tee and elbow) where the ball valve is. We just need to confirm you have enough room for a Jandy diverter valve.

View attachment 645623
Click to expand...

i always try to do as much as i can myself. i’m not opposed to trying this myself, but with no PVC experience i’m worried about screwing it up to the point where it’s an even more expensive fix.

i think i get the general idea behind replacing it, the part i’ve always had a hard time wrapping my head around is how to make it fit back together as tightly as it is now. there’s not a whole lot of room there.
 
I came across this diverter valve that uses unions as opposed to slip connections.

1747170304474.png


Union connections would allow you to cut and plumb the valve without tearing apart the rest of your plumbing. Measure to ensure you have enough room for the valve. Check this out...you would need the 2-Way version of the CMP valve:

How To Replace a Diverter Valve With One With Unions - INYOPools.com

This guide shows you how to replace a standard 3-way pool direrter valve with one with unions.
www.inyopools.com www.inyopools.com
 
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Rancho Cost-a-Lotta said:
I came across this diverter valve that uses unions as opposed to slip connections.

View attachment 645700


Union connections would allow you to cut and plumb the valve without tearing apart the rest of your plumbing. Measure to ensure you have enough room for the valve. Check this out...you would need the 2-Way version of the CMP valve:

How To Replace a Diverter Valve With One With Unions - INYOPools.com

This guide shows you how to replace a standard 3-way pool direrter valve with one with unions.
www.inyopools.com www.inyopools.com
Click to expand...

interesting. i had seen something similar but with the same kind of ball valve that's there now when i was browsing at lowes last night...was tempted to just try something like that (even though it's just the same ball valve rather than one of the diverters that can be rebuilt), if i were to do it with unions it'd lead to an easier swap later if (or when) the new one fails.
 
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