Can I replace jsut my IC40 cell with an IC 60 cell?

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A,

Yes you can.. the IC60 just drops right in..

That said.. about 75% of reported cell issues are not caused by the cell... so tell us why you think the cell has bit the dust in only two years...

What are your indications of failure???

Thanks for posting,

Jim R
 
Jim,

The cell is reading 4600 PPM.... the pool store says 3200. The cell wont kick on (presumably because of the high salt reading) Furthermore, holding the "more" button I get a reading of 20%... a single green dot for remaining life on the cell.

Even when it was new it could just barley keep up with chlorine demand. We use the pool daily and it gets FULL sun... all day, every day. I run it at 100% 9 hours a day. Looking back on how it performed I am more and more convinced I got a marginal cell to begin with.

I have not ordered a new one yet... but I would rather be way more overpowered and run at a lower %... an IC60 is only about 120 more dollars than an IC40 from the sources I have checked.
 
Your spot on about using a larger unit at a lower percentage, and they form factor is identical. As Jim said, you can just pop one in, the power supply is the same.

I also feel like 2 seasons is quite short. The unit should still run at 4600ppm, that's within spec. It could be that the temperature sensor is bad and therefor miscalculating the salinity. I've never replaced one, but I know you can bypass it. If you search, there's an article that explains how you can test the temp sensor. Maybe that will help you.
 
If only the 20% lights up when you do the Systems check that means only 2000 hours have been used, or 20% of its normal life.

I would do some more troubleshooting. Did you have a 'professional' install the unit? They have a 3 year warranty if so.

No matter what, consider calling Pentair to help troubleshoot.

Take care.
 
I also would not trust pool store testing. People often get bad advice from pool stores based off of their their less than professional testing. Get your own Taylor K-1766 salt test kit and you'll be able to check levels for yourself. Over-salting a pool is a very common problem because pool stores just don't understand how these units work. The IC units will shutdown when high salt levels are detected.

And yes, 1 green LED means the unit has been run for 2000 hours, not that it only has 2000 hours left.
 
A,

I certainly understand wanting to upgrade to the IC60, but it appears to me your current cell is working as it should..

An IC40 generates about 22 oz. of chlorine gas when running at 100% for 24 hours. This would add 8.4 ppm of FC to your size pool or .35 ppm per hour.

Since you are running for only 9 hours that would give you an increase of about 3.2 ppm each day.

Most pools use 2 to 4 ppm of FC per day and in this area we are normally at the high end of the range.

With a single speed pump I can see why you don't want to run more than 9 hours a day. For reference, I can run my IntelliFlo 24/7 to produce chlorine for less than $20 bucks a month.

If you decide to replace your IC40, I would suggest that you hang on to it, so that you can use it as a troubleshooting tool if you run into cell issue later..

Thanks for posting,

Jim R.
 
great advice guys.

I did the diagnostics on the easytouch and it said 4600 PPM, no faults.

At the time of my OP the green light on the unit was flashing (indicating high salt) however when I turned it on this morning and did the diagnostics, the light is no longer flashing.

I tried to measure water strait from the system for elevated chlorine, but saw no discernible difference in the sample. Right now FC is at 5 but I believe that to be due to me adding liquid chlorine a day or 2 ago. I will closely monitor the situation before making any large purchase. Perhaps my salt was too high and the unit was not running. I drained a little bit of water 2 days ago to bring it down a tad. If I see that the unit does produce chlorine, I will drain and refill further to bring it back to where it should be.
 
A,

The IC40 will flash a light when it "thinks" the salt level is high, but it will continue to produce chlorine.. It does not shut off due to high salt...

What are you using to test your FC??

Thanks,

Jim R.

- - - Updated - - -

Also... what is your CYA level? Low CYA will cause you to use up your FC faster..
 

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Jimrahbe said:
A,

The IC40 will flash a light when it "thinks" the salt level is high, but it will continue to produce chlorine.. It does not shut off due to high salt...

What are you using to test your FC??

Thanks,

Jim R.

- - - Updated - - -

Also... what is your CYA level? Low CYA will cause you to use up your FC faster..
Click to expand...

My CYA was at 35, I have added about 4 lbs but have not measured the change so far.
Chlorine test done with the leslies test kit
 
Austintatious said:
My CYA was at 35, I have added about 4 lbs but have not measured the change so far.
Chlorine test done with the leslies test kit
Click to expand...

How did you test your CYA? We recommend you get a full test kit such as the TF100 from TFTestkits.net or the Taylor K2006C

Take care.
 
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