Can high shock levels damage heater?

93notchlx

Member
Jun 2, 2022
11
Central NJ
Pool Size
20000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Hi Everyone,

I'm new to the group and relatively new pool owner( 2'nd summer ). I'm trying to remove staining from my plaster and my plan is to double or triple shock the pool, then brush it each day. Is there any danger with this high amount of chlorine running through my heater? I don't have a heater bypass.
 
I'm not sure what you mean "double or triple shock the pool". It's not something we speak of in generalities. We talk specific chlorine levels for specific pools as each will be different based on the level of stabilizer in the water.

But, massive doses of chlorine is not the way to get rid of stains. Identifying the stains and then using the specific solution fo that stain is the way to go. I will say that the most common staining people complain about is metal stains that usually result from using improper products like magic potions that advertise "minerals" (that is a way of saying metals, copper/silver) or improper use of algecides that contain copper.

So, more information on you pool may help us guide you in the proper direction.

How do you chlorinate?

What other products do you use?

What products have you used in the past like algecides?

What are your chemical levels?

FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA

You have a good test kit for most of the tests, but the OTO chlorine test in the K2005 is not specific enough. You really need the FAS/DPD test that comes with the K2006. You can pickl up that specific test and you then have a K2006 kit. The FAS/DPD test is more specific and can test to higher levels. FAS/DPD Chlorine & CC's test


We base our pool care system on your personal accurate testing and only adding what the pool needs, when it needs it.

How much Pool School have you read? Start with these:







So, welcome to TFP!!
 
I'm not sure what you mean "double or triple shock the pool". It's not something we speak of in generalities. We talk specific chlorine levels for specific pools as each will be different based on the level of stabilizer in the water.

But, massive doses of chlorine is not the way to get rid of stains. Identifying the stains and then using the specific solution fo that stain is the way to go. I will say that the most common staining people complain about is metal stains that usually result from using improper products like magic potions that advertise "minerals" (that is a way of saying metals, copper/silver) or improper use of algecides that contain copper.

So, more information on you pool may help us guide you in the proper direction.

How do you chlorinate?

What other products do you use?

What products have you used in the past like algecides?

What are your chemical levels?

FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA

You have a good test kit for most of the tests, but the OTO chlorine test in the K2005 is not specific enough. You really need the FAS/DPD test that comes with the K2006. You can pickl up that specific test and you then have a K2006 kit. The FAS/DPD test is more specific and can test to higher levels. FAS/DPD Chlorine & CC's test


We base our pool care system on your personal accurate testing and only adding what the pool needs, when it needs it.

How much Pool School have you read? Start with these:







So, welcome to TFP!!
Thank you for the quick reply.

By "double or triple shocking" I meant to double or triple the recommend dose of shock, so (4) 1lb bags or (6) 1lb bags of cal-hypo, for example.

Our pool was very green when we opened it this April( antifreeze color ). It was our first pool opening, and I probably should have checked pH and alkalinity first, but instead, I dumped in whatever sanitizer was left over from the previous homeowner. This included 2.5 gallons of 12.5% liquid chlorine( unknown age ) and 1/2 bottle of granular chlorine( I don't remember what type of sanitizer this was ). Then , I got 5 gallons of fresh liquid chlorine from the pool store and dumped that in as well. I ran the pump continuously, brushed, backwashed, etc. The algae cleared up but pool remained very cloudy even with pump running 24/7 for a week. I added clarifier but this did nothing. I then added flocculent and vacuumed to waste. This helped a bit but it was still very cloudy. I think I was stirring up the sediment too much as I was vacuuming. I ended up replacing the filter sand with glass media and the pool finally cleared up nicely. This is is the point at which I noticed the staining all over the pool. It's a light grey patchy type of staining on every surface. Interestingly, there's a distinct line at the deep end of the pool that where where the staining gets lighter. Maybe this is where some of the granular chlorine settled when I threw it in...not sure. I've attached a few pics of the staining. I don't think these stains were there when we moved in last year in July. I'm sure we would have noticed them. This leads le to believe that it's not an aging plaster issue, but I'm not ruling this out as the pool is 18 years old and I'm not sure if the pervious homeowner ever re-plastered it.

I tried to identify the stains using various methods. I scrubbed a stained area with a Tri-chlor tablet but that had zero effect. I also left the tab on top of the stained area for about an hour. This also had no effect. I tried rubbing a Vitamin C tablet on the stain and also let it rest on the area for about an hour. This also had no effect on the stain. I applied some sodium bisulfate onto a stained area and let it set for 5 minutes. This also had no effect. I also purchased the Jack's Magic stain ID kit. I feel like the #2 powder( acid ) lifted the staining slightly, but it's hard to tell, I can't say conclusively that it was effective. The other tests in the kit had zero effect. I made sure to balance the water according to the directions before I started the tests. The water temperature was about 70 degrees.

I took a water sample to a local pool store and they said that there was a small amount of copper( no other metals ) in the water. A pool store employee recommend an ascorbic acid treatment. I was hesitant as the Vitamin C tablet had no effect on the staining but I did it anyway out of desperation. Besides making the pool cloudy again and creating a milky white residue ( sludge ) on the surface of the plaster, it had very little effect, if any, on the staining.




How do you chlorinate?
I've been using Tri-chlor pucs in the chlorinator exclusively, but I just switched to liquid chlorine as my CYA is already at 60 ppm. I plan to use the Tri-chlor pucs when I travel for work, which would be about 1 week per month.

What other products do you use?
I use sodium bisulfate, muriatic acid, and baking soda to balance the pH and alkalinity. Lately, I've only been using the muriatic acid and baking soda.

What products have you used in the past like algecides?
25 lbs of calcium chloride as my CH was only 100. It's at 200 ppm now. One bottle of ascorbic acid and and 1 bottle of a powder form of sequestrant. Also a non-copper algaecide when my FC dropped to zero after the ascorbic acid treatment. The FC drop really caught me off guard. The addition of calcium chloride and ascorbic acid treatment were done at different times. I can't speak to what the previous homeowner used last year or before that.

What are your chemical levels?

FC - 5
CC - 5
pH - 7.5
TA - 100
CH - 200
CYA - 60

Thanks for the info on the FAS/DPD kit. I though this was included it my K2005 kit when I ordered it but I obviously ordered the wrong kit. Good to know I can just purchase the FAS/DPD part as an add-on.

I read a few of the pool school articles last night. It looks like I need to increase my FC levels based on my CYA. Up to this point, I've been gathering knowledge from pool store employees, online articles, and YouTube.

Sorry for the long winded post. Thanks again for your help.
 

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Yea, if you read through our documents - "shocking" is something we don't do, so there is no "normal" amount of shock.

You need more calcium in the water, with 350 as a minimum.

Your chlorine concerns me. The K-2005 only naturally tests Free Chlorine and Total Chlorine. CC is a calculated number.

You put the water in the tube and add reagents. The first number is Free Chlorine

You then add more reagents and the next number is Total Chlorine

You subtract Free Chlorine from total chlorine and that is CC

So, are you saying your FC was 5, your Total Chlorine was 10 and you ended up with 5 CC?

If you have 5 CC your water needs big work.

 
Yea, if you read through our documents - "shocking" is something we don't do, so there is no "normal" amount of shock.

You need more calcium in the water, with 350 as a minimum.

Your chlorine concerns me. The K-2005 only naturally tests Free Chlorine and Total Chlorine. CC is a calculated number.

You put the water in the tube and add reagents. The first number is Free Chlorine

You then add more reagents and the next number is Total Chlorine

You subtract Free Chlorine from total chlorine and that is CC

So, are you saying your FC was 5, your Total Chlorine was 10 and you ended up with 5 CC?

If you have 5 CC your water needs big work.

I'll add more calcium chloride. I didn't realize I need 350. 400 is max correct?

Sorry, I meant to write 5 ppm of FC and zero CC. When using the test kit, the color of the TC test looks identical to the FC test.
 
I'll add more calcium chloride. I didn't realize I need 350. 400 is max correct?
550 is the top end of what we recommend for a plaster pool with chlorine.

 

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Mine looked like that until the day I sold that house. I didn't notice it after a while. The previous owner wasn't the best at pool care.

But, we enjoyed the poolView attachment 418948
Yeah, we don't notice it with the pump running, only when the water is very still. At least we can still use it, as you said. I think we had the same issue with our previous owner. Great pic :)
 
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Yeah, we don't notice it with the pump running, only when the water is very still. At least we can still use it, as you said. I think we had the same issue with our previous owner. Great pic :)
What can happen if we don't re-plaster? I read somewhere that water can start seeping through the worn plaster. I feel like we lose about 1" of water every two days or so if it's warm and sunny. I'm not sure if that amount of evaporation is normal.
 
I doubt you are loosing water through the wearing plaster unless there are some cracks. If you haven't figured it out yet, we have a page for everything.

You need ot do a bucket test

 
What can happen if we don't re-plaster? I read somewhere that water can start seeping through the worn plaster.

As long as you have a layer of palster and the gunite shell is not showing then you should not be elaking from tehre.


I feel like we lose about 1" of water every two days or so if it's warm and sunny. I'm not sure if that amount of evaporation is normal.

In the last few weeks we have got a lot of rain and thunderstorms in NJ. I had to drain about an inch of water yesterday to keep my pool from overflowing. I have not needed to add water in over a month.


 
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