Calcium deposits

Well Cap'n, it sort of depends on your arrangement with the company.

Most pool care techs are in and out of the property in such a rush you rarely see them. You might get some paper with badly done chemistry results, but often how they perform those tests not to mention how they interpret and respond to them....well... its anyone's guess!?

Here at TroubleFreePools we try to teach home pool owners how to test, monitor and maintain their pool water chemistry so it makes for a pleasant sanitary swim as well as protects the pool surface and equipment from damage.

Some folks here still use a service to maybe brush and empty skimmers, but do the chemistry them self. Sort of a mix responsibility for labor or brain power.

Its your job as pool owner to ask them what they've done to the pool and what needs to be done.....then decide if you trust them to do so appropriately.

Got any current test results to share? From one of the test kits we trust (TF-100 or K-2006)?
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Salt if applicable

Do you feel a roughness to the pool surface or are you seeing something odd? Whiteness on tile can also be efflorescence from behind the tile and grout. You can try a diluted muriatic acid solution (4:1) and see how that works.

Need more info please :)

Maddie :flower:
 
Thanks. I'll be working on the tests myself now that I am retired. I'm a merchant mariner so I was gone 9 months a year. I had to have a service to maintain the pool then.
The pool is only 2 years old. 12000 gallon inground white plaster surface.
 
Do you have a respectable test kit? One with the FAS-DPD free chlorine/combined chloramines tester??
Input your test results here and we can review them with you to make sure nothing is out of whack.... and the CSI is good.
Do you know about PoolMath yet??

Maddie :flower:
 
Do you have a respectable test kit? One with the FAS-DPD free chlorine/combined chloramines tester??
Input your test results here and we can review them with you to make sure nothing is out of whack.... and the CSI is good.
Do you know about PoolMath yet??

Maddie :flower:
I have a Taylor Technologies test kit.
I have two sets of results to share on here. My kit is a little over a year old so I did my own tests and then took a sample to Leslie's for their analysis to compare.

My results: FC=0 TC=0 CC=0 Ph=8.2 (It took 6 drops to correct at 7.4) Alk=160 CH=150 CyA=120

Leslie's results: FC=1.33 TC=1.8 PH=8.1 Alk=88 (this is corrected due to CyA effect) CH=106 CyA=164 Phos=1665 TDS=600IMG_20201106_095534946.jpgIMG_20201106_095600612.jpg
 
Which model number Taylor test kit do you have?

We don't put much credence in pool store test results as they are often inaccurate.

When you post test results, please use the following format to make them easier to read....

FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Water temp

Are you using the PoolMath app?
Please fill outyour signature to include your pool and equipmentspecs, along with your test kit info.
 
As for the white, you need to use Pool Math to calculate CSI. You didn't post water temperature, but at 75 degrees with the rest of the results you posted, your CSI is 0.43. Anything above zero is likely to cause scaling. You want to keep it between -0.3 and 0.

How did you get that CYA result from your Taylor kit? The scale on my Taylor only goes up to 100. Maybe you have a different model than I do.
 
Which model number Taylor test kit do you have?

We don't put much credence in pool store test results as they are often inaccurate.

When you post test results, please use the following format to make them easier to read....

FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Water temp

Are you using the PoolMath app?
Please fill outyour signature to include your pool and equipmentspecs, along with your test kit info.
I updated my signature.
My Taylor Kit is the Complete DPD Chlorine Test Kit. It tests everything from Free and Total Chlorine, pH, Acid & Base demand, Total Alkalinity, Calcium Hardness, and Cyanuric Acid.
 
As for the white, you need to use Pool Math to calculate CSI. You didn't post water temperature, but at 75 degrees with the rest of the results you posted, your CSI is 0.43. Anything above zero is likely to cause scaling. You want to keep it between -0.3 and 0.

How did you get that CYA result from your Taylor kit? The scale on my Taylor only goes up to 100. Maybe you have a different model than I do.
I got the CYA result based on observation of the graduations on the CYA tube. The water level required to hide the dot was about 1/4'' below the 100 mark on the tube.
 

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Mike, I suggest you read ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry and Recommended Levels

If you want to get your water chemistry within TFP parameters you will need to drain your pool to lower your CYA. To get a better handle on your actual CYA level do the following:

CYA > 90 dilution Test
For CYA > 90ppm, repeat the test adjusting the procedure as follows:
  1. Fill the mixing bottle to the lower mark with pool water.
  2. Continue filling the mixing bottle to the upper mark with tap water.
  3. Shake briefly to mix.
  4. Pour off half of the contents of the mixing bottle, so it is again filled to the lower mark.
  5. Continue the test normally from adding R-0013, but multiply the final result by two.
If you need to dilute the pool water further then apply these ratios:

Pool waterTap or distilled waterMultiply result by
112
123
145

Note that when doing a diluted test not only do you multiply the range of the test you multiply the error rate of the test, so results are a ballpark - not an absolute.

See CYA Testing for tips in how to read the test results.
 
Last edited:
I updated my signature.
My Taylor Kit is the Complete DPD Chlorine Test Kit. It tests everything from Free and Total Chlorine, pH, Acid & Base demand, Total Alkalinity, Calcium Hardness, and Cyanuric Acid.
Can you put the test kit model number in your signature instead? K2005 or K2006? Or something different?
Complete DPD Chlorine Test Kit sounds like the K2005. That kit is missing the all important FAS-DPD chlorine test.
 
I got the CYA result based on observation of the graduations on the CYA tube. The water level required to hide the dot was about 1/4'' below the 100 mark on the tube.
The scale is logarithmic. You cannot try to extrapolate a reading the way that you did. All you know is that your level is above 100. You need to do the diluted test, posted above by @ajw22, in order to get a ballpark reading. That info is important so that you know how much to drain and refill, or exchange. Having such a high CYA really isn't maintainable.
 
I have to concur that such a positive CSI is going to heavily contribute to your scale formation on those tiles. You're read the remarks above about getting chlorine in there, and improving your testing abilities...... but as far as your tiles go you might try a diluted muriatic acid: water mixture and see if that and a nylon scrubby will help remove it. Try a 4:1 solution first.

Maddie :flower:
 
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