You’re saying before I turn on the system get my levels correct? My only problem always seemed to be no chlorine or low chlorine. All my levels were always good. I have the correct kit and
Tested often because I was always doing the chlorine tests
Buying new SWG system
- Thread starter sersee
- Start date
Tested often because I was always doing the chlorine tests
Flying Tivo
TFP Guide
- Jan 24, 2017
- 2,967
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- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Did you check the light niche for hidden algae during the slam? There might be some spots you missed and that is why its coming back.
Or if you have a ladder, the couple of gallons of water that each side holds. That needs to be taken out and sterilized also. Sometimes it's even around the edges/liner tracks of the stairs.
- May 3, 2014
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- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
An Overnight Chlorine Loss Test is one factor if three for a successful SLAM. Be sure you pass all three.
Rattus Suffocatus
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- Jun 5, 2019
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- CircuPool Universal40
Do you have the Edge 40 installed yet? Do you like it?
I have a 13K gal pool and I am considering SJ, Edge and Universal 40. I'm leaning towards the Universal 40 due to many factors despite having the shortest warranty (the replacement cells are cheaper so it all averages out, honestly), but the Edge is under serious consideration as well. I have a 13K gal pool so any 40K size should be over sized enough. I might "love" the RJ+ but it's too spendy for me.
Dealing with DSP good too? I probably will make my mind up in a month or so. Water is finally at 61F... Have a bunch of LQ to use up tho so no huge rush at this point.
Been meaning on conning some advice out of everyone, but not enough yet to not hijack a thread....
Rattus Suffocatus
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- Jun 5, 2019
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One thing I have been concerned with in getting a salt cell at this point is that even though my water has been VERY stable this winter and during the very short season I had last year after the pool's completion, that despite this my TA is the usual Arizona high. It'a at 120 currently, and that is listed as the high end of the acceptable range in the CircuPool manuals. Do you think it's okay to install with TA at 120 when my CSI is pretty much 0.00+/- 0.05 most of the time, or do I need to work on getting TA down (which means I'll have to aerate a lot to bring pH back up or I will have to wait months before it gets there on it's own).. What do you all think? (last reading: pH 7.8, TA 120, CH 225, CYA 40, Temp 59F, CSI 0.03) I am just a tad bit concerned that I'll have to figure out a balance at a lower TA/pH first. I'm obviously trying to make plans at this point...
- May 3, 2014
- 58,634
- Pool Size
- 6000
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- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
If you lower your pH to 7.2, it will rise to 7.6 pretty quickly on its own. Once your TA gets to 80 or so, you will find the acid you add to keep your pH under 8 will keep your TA at around 80.
Rattus Suffocatus
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- Jun 5, 2019
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Okay.. I've not attempted this on the pool because it's so stable but that is pretty similar to what happens to my hot tub no matter what I try (250 gallons detached). I have had issues with TA being high and pH being low in the hot tub so that is why I worry. Yes, you can bring it up through aeration but it wasn't a painless process on the tub. I'll start trying to lower TA in the pool then. I suspect in a month we might be able to swim in it anyway, so it's time for a bunch of maintenance to be done in the next couple of weekends anyway. I think I will hold off another month on ordering a SWCG then since I probably have enough chemicals ot cover a month left anyway... heck, with Coronavirus I am not too upset about having a lot of Sodium Hypochlorite in the house anyway!
Thanks.
Do you have the Edge 40 installed yet? Do you like it?
I have a 13K gal pool and I am considering SJ, Edge and Universal 40. I'm leaning towards the Universal 40 due to many factors despite having the shortest warranty (the replacement cells are cheaper so it all averages out, honestly), but the Edge is under serious consideration as well. I have a 13K gal pool so any 40K size should be over sized enough. I might "love" the RJ+ but it's too spendy for me.
Dealing with DSP good too? I probably will make my mind up in a month or so. Water is finally at 61F... Have a bunch of LQ to use up tho so no huge rush at this point.
Been meaning on conning some advice out of everyone, but not enough yet to not hijack a thread....
Not yet, won't stop raining in Atlanta
I went back and forth between RJ45 and Edge40 and the edge was about $120 less. My pool is around 20K but I run my pump 24x7 so didn't need a big one I did like the universal but the warranty was less but probably doesn't matter, to be honest. Discount salt seems to have the best prices, I shopped online a lot and nobody was close
I just wanted a solid SWG without all the bells and whistles
Rattus Suffocatus
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- Jun 5, 2019
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Not yet, won't stop raining in Atlanta
I did like the universal but the warranty was less but probably doesn't matter, to be honest. Discount salt seems to have the best prices, I shopped online a lot and nobody was close
I just wanted a solid SWG without all the bells and whistles
I have all sorts of trade offs to consider. I have maybe a 8.25" line to put the cell in if I want to go horizontal with the cell. The only one what would work in that configuration is the SJ series. I don't run my VS pump 24 hrs so I would like to go bigger but in theory I can get a SJ-20 and be within the 1.5x size category for $520. That's the cheapest, but I would have to run the pump more. But that is likely calling it too close. Going to an SJ-40 is about $720 and the Universal40 is $740... The warranty seems good on the SJ until you notice it's really only a 2 year warranty-- no flow switch either. (The edge is really 3-4 depending on what you consider "fair") The edge and SJ don't have a lot of adjustment range at 25% increments.. so that is a minus. The RJ's are spendy and have to be mounted vertical for me as well. The warranty is the best and the control box is the best. The Universal seems to have a worse warranty until you actually look at it. The prorating is real prorating unlike the SJ. So I don't know. Too many choices at this point. I really think the Universal 40 will be the way I go, I think, all things considered but I will have to get creative with the plumbing for anything other than the SJ....
Nothing ever is easy.
I wish DSP and/or CircuPool would publish the dimensions for their cells though. The Edge looks smaller which might be useful to me (it's not.. 15.5" total with the flow switch).... Only the SJ model manual has useful plumbing dimensions in it...
Last edited by a moderator:
- Jul 16, 2012
- 7,211
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- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
The 25% increments would be disappointing for me. Most of my adjustments are 5-20% during the season. Many of them on the smaller side of that range. It would involve changing both the % and pump run time to get what I want. Not a huge deal but not as simple.
Are you sure about mounting vertically here is a kit for the RJ
Vertical Installation Kit for CircuPool® Saltwater Chlorinator Systems
www.discountsaltpool.com
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Rattus Suffocatus
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- Jun 5, 2019
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Yes.. between the filter and the plumbing for the Paramount floor system (and Jandy Valve for the floor system/normal returns) I have about 8.25" total. So anything but the SJ would need the vertical kit or me to make a vertical kit. I am aware of this and I suppose it's okay... I could do a Rube Goldberg horizontal run as well, because physically I do have more run that that, but I suspect there would be at least two more bends which is always better not to do.
The folks at discount salt have a chat help and are pretty decent..They didn't try to push anything when I asked a few questions.
Not saying the universal isn't a bad option..I thought I had no room but the folks here showed me how to rerun between my heater and outputs when I posted pictures.
Just waiting for this rain to stop, now showing rain all next week in Atlanta
Rattus Suffocatus
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- Jun 5, 2019
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From my build thread, here is the picture of the Filter. I suppose I could turn the filter on the pad, make the inlet run longer and also then make the outlet longer. Even vertical as you see will have issues. I need to figure this out in the next couple of weeks before I take on the project.... It's almost like the PB intentionally made it hard for me to do. They wouldn't do that, would they? It is pretty narrow there though and that is why stuff is more squished together than I would like... they left me some room to get things in and out.... Maybe a horizontal loop is the way to go even with more elbows? It's starting to look like no matter what I choose I will need to do a bit of custom work....
Can't remember who it was here told me to come out of the filter and go right and out around 18" and back in to the main drain and install the SWG that way. Just may want to make sure it won't get hit or bumped..
I can't see your output valve but could cut that at the ground and turn that T if needed.
I can't see your output valve but could cut that at the ground and turn that T if needed.
Rattus Suffocatus
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- Jun 5, 2019
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I will try to take a picture from the other side this weekend. I apparently didn't take many of the equipment pad last year when I was doing the build thread here. I don't have a heater on my system so that is why the run to the floor system was made so short. I have a tight space there but I wish they would have spread the equipment out a little more than they did. I guess you can't put the chlorinator before the heater, eh? I guess that makes a lot of sense.. So you do have exactly the same problem.
I starting looking at the installation manual for my edge and it says cell can be mounted vertically or Horizontally, as long as the water flows the correct direction..
Rattus Suffocatus
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- Jun 5, 2019
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Right, only the SJ I think has to be horizontal, and that is because it detects flow electronically and not with a switch. If I am reading all of this correctly. If I went that way the mounting would be different that for the Edge, RJ, Core, or Universal.
I bought some plumbing pieces to play with this weekend and I think I figured it out for the latter group of cells. I will have to drop down at 90 degrees -- towards the ground at the output of the filter, then 90 degrees a few inches above the ground level, then run a line towards the existing returns valve. I will probably need to go forward of the valves a bit as I'll need more room for the cell, and what I can do in that case is run the line back through a 90 and two 45's and I'd likely have it. That is no more obstruction than the vertical mounting kits have so it should work fine. The flow switch would probably go on one of the vertical runs, and the cell on this extended horizontal run... We will see. I still have a couple of weeks before it would be smart to order anyway. I'm going to try to chase down the TA some as the pool temperature slowly comes up before buying a cell.