Building Chlorine Injector

[Steve #1]

How 'bout a bump for this old thread.

I got a PM this weekend asking about my setup. I didn't realize I never followed up on it here.

After almost a year I have had only one minor problem with my setup which I half expected from the get go. I read about all the issues people have with the Liquidator and just shake my head. I'd still go with a pump if it cost 3X what a liquidator costs instead of the 1/3 I spent on mine.

The hardest part is finding a good deal on a pump. I watched eBay for a few months and got a pump for about $35. This is a Rola-Chem pump that was originally designed to pump chemicals in to pools (go figure). A new one would run over $250. It has a adjustable timer built in to it. I have figured out where to set it for summer and winter and just gradually adjust it as needed.

I store the bleach in a 16 gal. barrel I got from work so it was free. If you had to buy one it would probably be about $75. It sits next to the pool pump which is shaded on all sides so eat and sun don't seem to be an issue. My original plan was to bury it to keep it cool, but it doesn’t seem to be much of an issue, so I haven’t been motivated to dig a hole.

I initially used a brass port to connect to the PVC. I was concerned that my dogs could potentially do something to break a plastic one. My concern with brass was that it would corrode. I switched the brass one out after about 6 months because it was corroding. The plastic one has survived the dogs so far.

I did not use a check valve and I don't think it is necessary. When the pool pump turns on, some water is pushed in to the tubing, but it's only about an ounce, so it's not an issue.

With a 16 Gal container, I buy bleach when I find a good deal on it. I try not to keep it to full in the summer to avoid the heat. When I add more it takes 15 seconds to dump it in. I do get the crystals that are fouling the liquidators too..... but they aren’t an issue with 1/2" tubing. :-D

Feel free to ask any questions, I'll try to keep up with this thread.

 

[Aquaman95]

I would recommend replacing that fitting with an injection check valve. That way if your tubing breaks you won't lose pool water. The Rola-Chem also appears the be an older two roller model so it doesn't have the in-built backflow/tube breakage protection that a three roller design has. A three roller design will help with tube breakage, but not with the line from the pump head to the injection point.

 

[Steve #1]

Good point that the check valve would prevent water loss if something breaks and I should probably throw one on it. My biggest concern with where something would break is where it connects to the PVC which would be the check valve. The tubeing is holding up fine and is easy to replce.

The pump is a two roller and I don't have any issues with back flow. What may have sounded like back flow from how I described it is just the air in the tube compressing under pressure. When the pool pump is turned off, it goes back to normal.

 

[Aquaman95]

Good point that the check valve would prevent water loss if something breaks and I should probably throw one on it. My biggest concern with where something would break is where it connects to the PVC which would be the check valve. The tubeing is holding up fine and is easy to replce.

The pump is a two roller and I don't have any issues with back flow. What may have sounded like back flow from how I described it is just the air in the tube compressing under pressure. When the pool pump is turned off, it goes back to normal.

You won't have any issues with back flow unless the tubing in the pump head breaks or if a roller goes out. Those are the two biggest wear items on a peristaltic pump.

 

[kmb997]

Steve, thank you for the update and the pictures. You mentioned you had a minor problem in the beginning, would you mind telling me what it was? Also, what kind of hose are you using and have you had to replace it yet? Do you use this setup all year, or do you shut it down for the winter?

Aquaman, you said to put an injection check valve in. You are talking about the fitting that is attached to the pvc pipe, right?

Any other suggestions, other than the one check valve and a peristaltic pump with three rollers?

Thanks

 

[Steve #1]

The problem I referred to was the brass piece I had used that began corroding.

The tubing is vinyl. I have not replaced it and don't see a need to any time soon as it is holding up fine. I picked it up at home depot, so getting replacement isn't an issue, same with the fitting that screws in to the PVC.

I'm in North Texas so the pool is open year round. We had a pretty mild winter this past year, but even with a few days strait of below freezing temps I didn't have any freezing issues with the chlorine.

 

[DLSDO]

Is the pump hardwired?

 

[cliff_s]

In my previous pool I had a Peristaltic pump to inject chlorine. I used a Mec-o-matic pump, the
smallest model and a 15 gal plastic drum. The pump was about $225 and the drum $15. The pump came with
enough plastic pipe to do the plumbing. The pump had a knob on the front to adjust it and I wired it to come
on with my filter pump. The system seemed to work well for the 3 years I used it. The only problem I had
was when the drum ran dry because I forgot to fill it. I only had to adjust the pump about twice a year once
for the summer and once for the winter.

Cliffs

 

[kmb997]

I'm assuming, depending on how I wire the peristaltic pump, I can use that setup with an intermatic timer that's on my circulation pump?

 

[randytsuch]

I'm assuming, depending on how I wire the peristaltic pump, I can use that setup with an intermatic timer that's on my circulation pump?

Is your pool pump 220V?
They do make 220V peristaltic pumps, but most are 110V. If your pump is 220V, then you will need to find neutral, if you want to get 110V.

My pump is 220V, but I had neutral close by, so I was able to wire up a 220V hot wire from my timer, along with the neutral to a GFI outlet, so the outlet is on a timer. I have the 3 function intermatic timer, with the first two functions switching 220V to the pump and heater, and the last function controlling my chlorine pump.

Hope that makes sense.

Randy

 

[kmb997]

My circulation pump is 110v.

 

[randytsuch]

My circulation pump is 110v.

Then you can wire it up to your pump timer, and it would be on whenever your pump is on.

I like having mine on a seperate timer, as it gives me more control over how much chlorine to add to the pool. I use time, and the pump controls.

Randy

 

[kmb997]

Randytsuch, thanks for your help. I've read old threads on here and it seems the recommended pumps are Stenner, Rola-chem, and Blue-Whites. Is your pump holding up? Do you have anything negative to say about it? Is your setup similar to Steve#1's setup?

Thanks

 

[randytsuch]

Randytsuch, thanks for your help. I've read old threads on here and it seems the recommended pumps are Stenner, Rola-chem, and Blue-Whites. Is your pump holding up? Do you have anything negative to say about it? Is your setup similar to Steve#1's setup?

Thanks

Hi
Since I just started really using my pump in the last couple weeks, it's very early to talk about reliability. I really wanted a Stenner, but I messed up on one ebay auction, and no other good deals came up, but I found a pretty cheap pulsamatic on ebay, so I decided to give it a shot.

I am just using an old chlorine bucket for my chlorine tank. I tapped a hole in my pipe, and screwed in a plastic adaptor for my "injection" fitting. I have one more adaptor, to go from 1/4 to 3/8 inch tubing. Otherwise, I am using the tubing and stuff that came with the pump.

But, I have a problem that I need to figure out what to do about. My system was putting in more chlorine then I thought it should. Today, I figured out why. Even if the chlorine pump is off, chlorine is getting sucked into the pool. Since my injection point is after the heater, if anything, I would expect the opposite, for pool water to go into the chlorine tank. So, I am trying to figure out what is happening. It might be because I have the pump in a "flooded" configuration, so the pump is at the same level as the storage tank. The manual recommended this for a chlorine system. I may raise my pump, and see if it makes a difference, although I can't see why that would make it feed chlorine even if the pump is off.

Randy

 

[Aquaman95]

Randytsuch, thanks for your help. I've read old threads on here and it seems the recommended pumps are Stenner, Rola-chem, and Blue-Whites. Is your pump holding up? Do you have anything negative to say about it? Is your setup similar to Steve#1's setup?

Thanks

Hi
Since I just started really using my pump in the last couple weeks, it's very early to talk about reliability. I really wanted a Stenner, but I messed up on one ebay auction, and no other good deals came up, but I found a pretty cheap pulsamatic on ebay, so I decided to give it a shot.

I am just using an old chlorine bucket for my chlorine tank. I tapped a hole in my pipe, and screwed in a plastic adaptor for my "injection" fitting. I have one more adaptor, to go from 1/4 to 3/8 inch tubing. Otherwise, I am using the tubing and stuff that came with the pump.

But, I have a problem that I need to figure out what to do about. My system was putting in more chlorine then I thought it should. Today, I figured out why. Even if the chlorine pump is off, chlorine is getting sucked into the pool. Since my injection point is after the heater, if anything, I would expect the opposite, for pool water to go into the chlorine tank. So, I am trying to figure out what is happening. It might be because I have the pump in a "flooded" configuration, so the pump is at the same level as the storage tank. The manual recommended this for a chlorine system. I may raise my pump, and see if it makes a difference, although I can't see why that would make it feed chlorine even if the pump is off.

Randy

Is that a diaphragm or peristaltic (tube) style pump? I'm not familiar with Pulsamatic, maybe it's a Pulsafeeder?

If it is a diaphragm pump, the problem is likely the injection fitting. You must have an injection check valve with a diaphragm pump or it will siphon chemical. Peristaltic's don't require this because te rollers stop the flow.

 

[randytsuch]

Is that a diaphragm or peristaltic (tube) style pump? I'm not familiar with Pulsamatic, maybe it's a Pulsafeeder?

If it is a diaphragm pump, the problem is likely the injection fitting. You must have an injection check valve with a diaphragm pump or it will siphon chemical. Peristaltic's don't require this because te rollers stop the flow.

It is a pulsafeeder, I need to fix my signature.
The pump manual says it comes with a "backpressure injection valve". When I looked at it, I thought it was just a straight piece of pipe, guess I need to look at it again.

Thanks for the advice
Randy

 

[randytsuch]

I went to Home Depot, and bought a few adaptors, and then adding the backpressure valve was a pretty simple job. The backpressure valve was too big to easily put directly into the pipes, so I am using the hole I already made, so it all worked out this way.

I played with it a little yesterday, and no more flow when the pool pump is running, but the pulsafeeder is off. Now, I need to "calibrate" the pulsafeeder flow rate, to figure out how much to run it each day.

Randy

 

[kmb997]

I'm trying to figure out what size stenner tank system to get. I use about 50oz. of 6% bleach a day and run my pump 8hrs a day. When I calculate this, it comes out to 6.25. I'm not sure if I did this the right way, but I was thinking I could get by with the adjustable rate 45M1 15 gallon tank system. Does this sound like it would work? The stenner website says it comes with 1/4" or 3/8" connections. Which size would be better?

Aquaman, you said to run the pump at the highest setting on the feed rate control and use a smaller tubing. Can you tell me what I would need to use to achieve this?

Thanks

 

[Aquaman95]

I'm trying to figure out what size stenner tank system to get. I use about 50oz. of 6% bleach a day and run my pump 8hrs a day. When I calculate this, it comes out to 6.25. I'm not sure if I did this the right way, but I was thinking I could get by with the adjustable rate 45M1 15 gallon tank system. Does this sound like it would work? The stenner website says it comes with 1/4" or 3/8" connections. Which size would be better?

Aquaman, you said to run the pump at the highest setting on the feed rate control and use a smaller tubing. Can you tell me what I would need to use to achieve this?

Thanks

50 fl oz. total feed per day = .390625 USG. Since you're trying to inject that in 8 hours but we're sizing based on GPD, multiply that times 3 for a feed rate of 1.18 GPD. The Stenner 45M1 as you have suggested has a max feed rate of 3 GPD, but if you turn the feed rate control down to the #4 setting that will get you close at 1.2 GPD. That's about as close as you can come.

Stick with the 1/4" fittings. The 3/8" is the same pump, it just comes with adapters to accept 3/8" tube. There is no advantage to this for your use.

 

[Aquaman95]

I went to Home Depot, and bought a few adaptors, and then adding the backpressure valve was a pretty simple job. The backpressure valve was too big to easily put directly into the pipes, so I am using the hole I already made, so it all worked out this way.

I played with it a little yesterday, and no more flow when the pool pump is running, but the pulsafeeder is off. Now, I need to "calibrate" the pulsafeeder flow rate, to figure out how much to run it each day.

Randy

I should also mention to you that if you are running in a true flooded suction install (suction line through bulkhead at bottom of tank so gravity forces bleach to pump head) you should put a non-metallic inline or y strainer with shut off valve prior to the pump head. This replaces the foot valve strainer you would normally have if you weren't running flooded suction. This strainer stops "junk" from clogging up the small orifices inside the pump head.

It's a bit of a pain to set up, but flooded suction is the best way to go with a dipahragm pump used to pump bleach unless you have a self venting pump head or vent valve on the injection side. Bleach is a gassy solution and it is easy for the pump to air lock at the head. Flooded suction will stop this.